Mr Harry Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Okay, 1 step forward, 2 steps back I've decided that the lower shock mounting needs to be welded, as now while its in bits is the best time - not later down the road, which could be a cold, wet, dark, remote and unfriendly one (can roads be unfriendly? I guess I can think of a couple that may have a grudge against me) Putting that job aside and looking at other things to do, I swept out the accumulated debris from the rear passenger foot well, and then went prodding with a screwdriver to shift some rust.....oh dear, either its a very strong screwdriver, or I've found more welding work. So, is it a MOT fail, or advisory notice? As far as the welding goes, is it a simple plating over job, or is something more required? The o/s photo has a crack in the metal, which maybe be nothing, but then again, maybe its a sign of something else. And the internal shot on the n/s is none too clever Thoughts/ suggestions welcomed (other than I'm a bad boy for neglecting all this, and I need to show much love and TLC now - I've made a start - new parts are gathering) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 The MOT guidelines were if I recall corrosion within 300mm of a 'load bearing member' would constitute an MOT failure. If you have access to a welder then so long as the weld is 'continuous' then go for it as it needs filling either way I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 All look like a fail to me - 30cm of body support, seat belt mounting, door pillar, etc, etc. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 rules for corrosion are not quite as simple as we would like ,,, I can`t quite see where it is but. If its just near a body mount and there is no other corrosion around other body mounts then it would be an advise BUT if its within 12" of a seat belt mounting bolt ,or brakes/steering if in the front, then it is a fail. Cracks also count as fail. Because landys have separate chassis then body only really counts for seat belt mounting prescribed areas at rear. All info available to testers is at motinfo.gov.uk and look at class 4 inspection manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 ,,, I can`t quite see where it is bottom rear of 2nd row door aperture, floor end of the angled bodyside frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 any seat belt mounts around there on a 110 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 rear outer seatbelts are a bit further up, where the angled box section changes to the vertical frame of the door aperture, without going outside to measure theseatbelt fitting on my 110 I can't remember how far away it is from that holed area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 same here western !!! did 8 mots today and some repair work so a bit mot`d out !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 if it's land rover and rust i'd just weld it up as even if it's not an MOT failure it won't get any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Harry Posted April 16, 2010 Author Share Posted April 16, 2010 Okay, so its another job on the welding list What can I do to prepare these bits? Should I cut back to the edges, or grind the area to bare metal for a plate to go on top? And what thickness/ size for the metal to use? Just want to get as much ready in advance, as I'm probably going to have a mobile welder in, so I'm guess they work on time, as these are small jobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 I did just that job a year or 2 ago. Well, I got a welding friend to do it for me. The hardest part is getting a grinder in there. Didn't have a dremil at the time, but it would have been very useful. IIRC, we but back 3/4 of the way up, flush to the seatbox and welded in a similar thickness angle, to the seatbox, and the outside seam. I'd photo it, but the old 110 is 50 miles away. Not difficult, but it took a bit of time fettling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Harry Posted April 18, 2010 Author Share Posted April 18, 2010 I did just that job a year or 2 ago. Well, I got a welding friend to do it for me. The hardest part is getting a grinder in there. Didn't have a dremil at the time, but it would have been very useful. IIRC, we but back 3/4 of the way up, flush to the seatbox and welded in a similar thickness angle, to the seatbox, and the outside seam. I'd photo it, but the old 110 is 50 miles away. Not difficult, but it took a bit of time fettling it. Thanks for the info Should I be cutting back the rusty metal to weld the plate flush, or just tidy up the rusty metal and plate over the top Sorry for all the questions, but as people say this is an MOT fail, so I want to be sure I get it done right to pass - plus make sure it looks right and lasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Looking at the pictures, the hole looks pretty small. I assume that the MOT would have no problem with you plating it. Just cut out all the rust and give yourself some clean metal to weld to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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