bombx3 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 i have lost low end power and have a small fuel leak from the regulator by the inlet manifold..A local landrover chap said this can cause it to run poor is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian M Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 you will want to get it changed asap as it drips onto the starter motor and i have seen it many times knacker the starter motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 I need to get one too - anyone recommend a place to buy from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRmalawi Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 I need to get one too - anyone recommend a place to buy from? I am in the process of replacing mine. Have purchased from the land rover centre in LiverpoolUKM It is being sent out by courier to Malawi. A bit pricey this way but need to get back on the road. For fairness sake, you seem to be able to get this spare quite easily whether earlier or late model type and most suppliers ha ve it. As for performance, I didn't notice any difference at low revs as mine was failing but did feel rough and gutless above 3000 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 The same thing failed on my TD5 90. It didn't finish the starter motor but the clutch, as the fuel seeped into the bellhousing. I got it fixed by a workshop and the dual mass flywheel was iffy and it cost me just over £1,000 in all. It's a VERY common fault. Elsewhere on this forum I posted about it as the first manifestation was an occasionally slipping clutch. A guy in Italy recommended some seals to fix the valve.. If I find the post I'll reply here again. Found it... from Silvio in Italy.. replaced just the 2 Orings of the fuel pressure regulator, and it worked for me, the leak has been solved; basically, you need to remove the regulator block and extract the regulating valve, which is held by a seeger ring. When the valve is out, you replace the 2 orings: pay attention, you MUST buy Viton Orings (Viton is a special rubber, much more resistant to oil and temperature than the standard one). The codes for the orings are as follows: 3081 the larger one, 3021 the smaller one. Honest price should be 2 euros each... Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombx3 Posted May 19, 2010 Author Share Posted May 19, 2010 i have fitted mine and all seems ok no leaks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 anyone selling them in the UK at all. Sounds like a must have for the pence against the shock of a new regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombx3 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 i got mine from brookwells in Devon about £90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 That's for the entire valve though?? That's about what my valve cost from the local main dealer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 sorry I was asking about the o-rings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 sorry I was asking about the o-rings Just do a web search, I found loads of links to Viton 'O' rings. Suggest you quote the numbers Silvio provided. Can't be much...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 EdF, Cos I'm idle and it did not return specifics for the numbers Silvio quoted I hoped someone would just say phone so and so. You are right however, and I'll get off my bum and do a proper search now (well Monday). Sorry but I do not surf the net outside of work........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hi folks Just about to replace the o-rings on my leaky reg. Have been trawling the net to try and find viton codes matching the ones listed above (3081 etc) and no joy. I then emailed an o-ring specialist who said that although they carry Viton they don't recognise those codes? Can anyone tell me which company those codes are applicable to or - as the specialist has requested - the cross section x internal diameter of both rings? Cheers George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hi, I can only suggest you try and find the post by Silvio and ask him, or, remove the O rings and go to a Viton supplier (if you can locate one) and ask them to match the originals. I've now sold my Defender and have a Disco 3 so I'm waiting for a different set of (more) expensive problems. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks Ed After a little more trawling I finally found out that Silvio's numbers are - wait for it - Italian standard. Makes sense. So for reference here is a site that gives the actual dimensions of the o-rings; (Italian numbers 3021 and 3081 lest you forget) http://mdmetric.com/or/ita2gb.htm Also I emailed the folk at marcorubber.com and they came back to me same day. Haven't bought anything from them (yet) but there's a lot to be said for prompt service these days. Should make things easier! George EDIT: The mdmetric site is simple but effective. Thing is neither ISO or British standard show o-rings with the same dimensions as those Silvio listed. The US standard does and the corresponding US part numbers are 107 and 117 respectively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba23 Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 hi i need to fix my FPR and i was considering uprating it to a 4 bar one to improve the performance, seeing as i'm gonna be in the region, any thoughts, it's 30 squid for the new regulator valve on it's tod as opposed to a tenner for the gasket/ seal set or 120 for the whole shebang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.