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Galvaising door frames


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Anybody had their door frames galvanised?

Ive made a start on prepairing mine. Ive drilled out the crush tubes for the hinges to remove the brass and will weld in replacements. Ive still to drill holes around the front of the door frame to allow the zinc in and air out. These will then be covered by the door skin when reassembled.

Any advise on what else to watch out for?

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Yes the doors have been blasted the drivers side bottom disintergrated so repair a section has been fitted. The doors I have are the early lift up handle and Im retrofitting electric windows from an xs. Ive had to make 1 or two mods but nothing major!

I hope to get the doors sent off to be dipped this Friday so should have them back next Tuesday. Ill report any findings!!

post-280-127791335568_thumb.jpg

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Collected the doors yesterday evening. They twisted slightly but should be easy to put right. Not bad for €23 :D Crazy that LR never galv'd the bulkhead / door frames

post-280-127849765467_thumb.jpg

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23 Euro is bargin - I just picked up a new 06 onwards door which is fully galvanised witch also has a steel skin... a little expensive at 200 squid, but it will hopefully last as long as the chassis now!

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Collected the doors yesterday evening. They twisted slightly but should be easy to put right. Not bad for €23 :D Crazy that LR never galv'd the bulkhead / door frames

Looking very nice Vinny. :wub:

Which way did they twist. Is there any way you could reinforce them prior to dipping ; just for future reference?

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Looking very nice Vinny. :wub:

Which way did they twist. Is there any way you could reinforce them prior to dipping ; just for future reference?

They twisted a bit like a pringle crisp (opposing corners lifted)!! but only slightly 10-15mm

Not sure how you could brace them and not cover parts of the door from gavlvanising

The total cost to get the 2 doors done is about €100 including sandblasting, a repair section made and fitted to the drivers side and the galvanising..... tempting???

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Very! :)

How you going to straighten them though?

Its a very technical proceedure, perhaps one for the archive!!

Step1. Clamp base of door frame to a sturdy bench

Step2. Twist door (at the top of the door support the lower side, then add my considerable weight to the higher side to lower) :lol:

Step3. Remove clamps

:blink:

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what are you going to fill all the extra drain holes with ?

All the holes are on the outter side of the door so should be covered by the door skin. I was just going to leave them alone :unsure:

Would it be worth sticking/sealing the door skin to the frame with a thin bead of RTV sealant? Some parts of the door skin were glued from new!?

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In a normal car, I'd say they'd be fine if you left them open, allowing water out and air in.

If however you are going to be buried up to your neck in mud, then you'll never get all the mud out of the door frames, which might still promote corrosion in your corrosion proof doors :P

I'd be inclined to fill the holes in the frame with RTV or similar, or like you say, stick the skin to the frame.

(Do you still get electrolytic corrosion between zink and ali? I assume not)

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I dont intend seriously off roading it maybe a few lanes, Im stock piling all the bits to build a v8 trialer to have fun instead.

Didnt get anything done on the doors last night but a previous owner/LR had brazed the gap in each corner between the outter window seal and the frame. I had expected the brass to melt when dipped but it didnt. Makes me wonder if I needed to drill out the crush tubes at all!! :huh:

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