ajh Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 So, what's the absolute minimum needed to remove the front 3rd member to replace pinion bearing/seal? Is it reasonable to just unbolt the swivels from the axle casing to get the half-shafts to clear the diff? or is this going to make it too difficult to re-assemble? While on the subject, does anyone have the Timken part number for the front pinion bearing (and might as well do the others at the same time I guess) the 3rd member is from a 1992 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 the 3rd member ???? page 407, item 9 is the pinion bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Third member (US) = differential (UK) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You are right that you can unbolt the swivels to get the diff out(3rd member over there). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I found it easier to pull the hubs off and then just remove the stub axles and pull the shafts out. Saves faffing with large lumps of metal (ie. hub and swivel) in my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I found it easier to pull the hubs off and then just remove the stub axles and pull the shafts out. Saves faffing with large lumps of metal (ie. hub and swivel) in my opinion I did it that way when I replaced my front diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Third member (US) = differential (UK) well, that's something I've learnt today. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 As above- the quickest way is to unbolt the whole swivels from the end of the axle- should be able to withdraw them far enough to pull the diff out without disconnecting brake lines etc. There is a fair amount of unecessary work to be done if you strip the whole lot and pull the stub shafts off- that is unless they could do with being stripped, cleaned and regreased anyway?! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Si, no I just assembled things and it's all fresh except the bits in the third member (which is the big chunk of metal that holds the differential, R&P etc) I just had a bit of an 'incident' where the 'stock' bolts for the propshaft were too long, they cleared the mud-guard fine when testing things but the bearing must have already been worn since when it was put under load things shifted enough to cause them to grind up against it, causing a lot of heat, and the ensuing failure. Anyone know if I should be able to pull the unit from a 1993 and drop it into a 1992 or will the diff-end spline count be different? (I've got a 1993 90 sitting here awaiting restoration and I'm supposed to get the 110 to paint tomorrow....). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 If nothing else needs doing the just split the swivels complete from the ends of the axle case. I 'think' the diffs on both should be the same- 10 spline. 24 spline I think was introduced with the 300Tdi in 1994?- stand to be corrected! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 I would have just taken the swivels too, but they're in terrible shape. If even the diff fits and is in 'OK' shape that'll let me get things over to the paint shop on schedule which would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Sigh, looks like it's more than just the bearings. The pinion gear looks like it's been chewed on, the ring looks fine though. Does anyone know the Timken part number for the bearing? If I can find it I should be able to source one locally tomorrow and hopefully have this fixed by tomorrow evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 well, that's something I've learnt today. Thanks I had to look it up as well - good job we have the interweb these days ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Well, the inner bearing seems fine if slightly worn, but the outer one only the cup was intact (and pretty scored) the bearing seat was melted too badly to pull a part number from it so if anyone has one that is not yet fitted and could get the Timken part number from it I can then actually source one locally, then I just need a pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 get the Timken part number from it I can then actually source one locally, then I just need a pinion. Linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Does anyone know the Timken part number for the bearing refer to the link in my first reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Yes, sorry... I'd just assumed that because it was a LR document it would be using LR part numbers and it never occurred to me that they might be the timken ones. Much appreciated, I managed to get everything back together and it setup almost perfectly despite breaking a couple 'rules' along the way so now the 110 is off at the body/paint shop and I'm hoping to have it back here by Friday. Again, thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.