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ERG removal


DiscoHere

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Now that I am working on my 300tdi engine I thought I would remove or blank off the EGR valve. I searched this forum and managed to find lots of advice on the matter but no set by step guide on how to go about the work.

I have managed to ascertain that

1 It is probably a good idea to disengage it (but I am not too sure if it needs to be blanked off or removed fully)

2 The allen screws are hard to remove (what happens when one rounds off?)

3 The blow back from the turbo under boost needs to be addressed (not sure how or what is needed here)

4 The blanking kits on Ebay leave a lot to be desired (what exactly is needed)

Is there any setp by step guide on here (or elaswhere) that people have found helpful? If not maybe one you you that have done it before might enlighten me a little please

Hugh

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No experience of a 300tdi, but I've just done my TD5 and I'm looking at a picture of a 300tdi EGR :P

In general, you can disconnect them, the theory being that the value won't open and allow exhaust gasses into the inlet. But if the valve is gummed up, it won't close properly, hence the need to remove it completely.

Best thing to do with the Allen bolts is to soak them in plusgas or similar for a few days prior. Make sure your key fits correctly. Take your time, don't be too heavy handed, try shocking them loose rather than just lots of torque. If you round them, then (from the picture) it looks like you can still get mole grips on to the heads.

Don't know what you mean by blowback from the turbo :unsure:

For a 300tdi, you need a blanking piece for the exhaust, plus 2 new bolts for good measure, and a new inlet pipe, because the original has the EGR inlet.

You'll also have to deal with the vacuum pipe. Not sure here on the 300tdi arrangement. Some people just block it with a bolt :angry: , but if it's tee-d into the vacuum line to the brake servo, I'd replace the vacuum line with a straight one without a tee.

This looks like a good guide.

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If you can get the bolts holding the valve to the exhaust manifold loose, this will be the key to it. You can remove the valve completely or put a blanking plate underneath it so the gases cannot escape. This is the simplest solution but not the cleanest or the most elegant.

Without the valve being present, you can still use the inlet pipe from the inter-cooler by blocking the port which normally allows gases in. This can simply be welded up or plugged mechanically. It is of course cleaner to use a pipe that has no port in the side.

If you leave the valve in place, then nothing needs to be done.

The vacuum line can be removed from the Tee in the brake booster line and the tee can be plugged with a bolt or something similar.

Once again, to get the benefits of a de-egr mod, all you have to do is put a blanking plate between the valve and the exhaust manifold. The valve may still function pneumatically and electrically but only clean air will entire the combustion chambers.

I think most people want to go further than that though and have a nice clean set-up.

Steve

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I have just removed the EGR off my dads 300 defender. Found the vacuum pipe hanging around at the back of the bulkhead not attached.....

His brakes have been fine but we put a small screw in where the vacuum hose is meant to attach.

What does the bit that all the vacuum pipes go to do?

Is it possible to remove it all and have more a 200 style set up?

Jad

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I have done EGR blank on my 300tdi....I have put a screw in the pipe but wondered if I needed to unplug this

DSC02793.jpg

I would guess that that's the solenoid that applies vacuum to the ERG. It's controlled by the ECU.

It can all be removed, but if the vacuum supply to it also feeds the brake servo, the line will need to be sealed properly. If your bolt falls out you'll have no assisted brakes.

I would guess this is still a problem if the ECU demands EGR, opens the solenoid and your bolt leaks into the brake servo unit :unsure:

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