Petebw Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hi everyone, sorry to make my first post here a cry for help... I have a '99 P38 and I started to replace the rear airbags as the job sounded pretty straight forward. I followed the various guides and managed to remove the air hose and split pins (top and bottom) after deflating the system etc. From what I can tell, the deflated airbag with split pins and connector removed should just drop out from it's housing... Mine has not however. I can't believe (maybe I'm being too naive) that someone would have stuck them in place previously - the split pins were in place prior to removal etc. Has anyone come across this before? I've tried everything I can to remove the airbag - even cutting back the rubber to try to get easier access - still no luck in budging it though. If anyone can give any advice or share experiences that might help I'd very much appreciate it! Cheers, Pete. PS: It's the plastic topped version btw, not the metal one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 The top and bottom seats are aluminium aren't they? they may have corroded in place. Soak with loads of WD40 and get busy with a big hammer. A bit of heat cycling may also help break the hold of whatever is holding them in place. have you bought new air bags yet? if not have a look at the Anrott GIII ones (try rover renovations in the US). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petebw Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 hey, thanks for the reply. The fitted ones are plastic top and bottom seats (it's a late model - they changed them to plastic in '98-'99 I believe) so they're definitely not corroded in. I do have the new ones ready to fit too (and they are the Arnott v3's). I'll get stuck in with wd40 and heat too - maybe that will help. Bloody awkward position to work in though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Original springs had aluminium ends, and yes, any corrosion on the centre, where it goes through the hole in the steel chassis, would mean the top didn't fit back through the hole, without physical persuasion. Quite why a later spring, with plastic ends, should be so tight I'm not sure. I've never had to remove one of those. Double check, you did get all the pin out? The straight leg didn't shear off, leaving a stub protruding above the chassis? If not I can only think the chassis has rusted a bit, and swelled into the plastic, keying it in place. As it's plastic, heat may not be a good idea, but as you have removed the rubber you can perhaps attack the plastic with a burr or drill bit and 'erode' the centre. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinM Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Seem to recall I had similar problems with one of my rear one's and the advice about WD 40 and leverage is good. Also found a "rust brush" useful. Mine took about 40 mins of sustained effort but came clear in the end. I can recommend Arnot Gen 3s - though they do produce a rather different ride (actually I think better). Andy Iles at P38Spares is an agent here in the UK so no need to import from the US. All the best Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie1 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Get stuck in with a crow bar, its plastic so it will break out without damage to anything else, I did this with 1 of mine when I replaced with coils. Anyway good luck. Davie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 This is quite a common problem,even with plastic capped springs,as suggested get in there with a long crow bar and poke them down from the top.The edges of the socket corrode and grip onto the plastic.Might pay to use some padding on the edge of the body to stop the crow bar damaging the paint.And be careful not to squash the air hoses with the crowbar if it all happens quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petebw Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 this is brilliant advice all, thanks... I'd been working on them off and on for a few weeks now and getting nowhere, beginning to think I was missing something. Seems not though, and just more elbow grease is needed (+ wd40, crow-bars and the like!) I did get the new ones from P38Spares in fact So, will have another go this week and report back if I get anywhere Cheers all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxtherotti Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I can recommend Arnot Gen 3s - though they do produce a rather different ride (actually I think better). Andy Iles at P38Spares is an agent here in the UK so no need to import from the US. All the best Martin May I ask what is different about the ride with them? is it firmer? Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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