Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 At the risk of parading my laughable ignorance yet again, can someone please describe the steps involved in replacing the driveshafts (front and rear) on an '02 110? I can see (and hear) that the splines on mine are worn. Many thanks, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 You mean propshafts or halfshafts? A LR doesn't dreally have 'driveshafts' as such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 just to clarify, drive shaft meaning prop shafts? (ok, bowie69 beat me too it) Its quite straight forward. You should invest in a prop shaft special socket, makes life even easier, and they aren't expensive My link The bolts are Imperial 9/16th AF, so you need that tool and a ideally a 9/16" spanner. Its a simple case of jack up one wheel on the axle side your changeing put it on a stand (so the wheel turns) - allows you to get to all the propshaft bolts by rotating it. Pop all the bolts, be carfull not to drop it on your head! remove and replace with new props, might be worth you getting a new set of bolts too, they could be a bit corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 Thanks, to clarify; that would be 'driveshafts' meaning 'half shafts'. Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Are you sure its not just backlash in the LR drive train? Rear is a lot easier than the front... Just a question of taking the cap and/or drive flange (not sure!) off the middle of the hub, and sliding the shaft out. If you do one side at a time and jack it up so the axle is sloped, and replace before putting back down you don't need to drain the axle . Front is more involved... Take the wheels off, brake callipers, Undo the hub nut, and take the hub off. Then its 6(?) bolts to take the Stub axle off. Once this is off the whole CV and halfshaft will slide out HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Are you sure its not just backlash in the LR drive train? Rear is a lot easier than the front... Just a question of taking the cap and/or drive flange (not sure!) off the middle of the hub, and sliding the shaft out. If you do one side at a time and jack it up so the axle is sloped, and replace before putting back down you don't need to drain the axle . Front is more involved... Take the wheels off, brake callipers, Undo the hub nut, and take the hub off. Then its 6(?) bolts to take the Stub axle off. Once this is off the whole CV and halfshaft will slide out HTH I hate doing the front, its a little bit messy... make sure you have lots of rags about the place, as soon as you crack the stub axles off the contents of the swivels will ooose out! I good opertunity to inspect your CV's for excessive wear/corrosion though. There is the other option of takeing the whole swival assemblies off at the axle case flange, doing this though you have to remove your brake caliper... these bits are mightly heavy too as complete units... I think I'd go with removing the stub axle's. You'll need some new "one shot" greese, sealant and threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 If you take the whole assembly off at the flange you can't get the halfshaft out. You would surely risk damaging the oil seal in the back of the swivel ball (if the shaft would even come out that way at all?)? and they are bloody heavy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 H'mm, many thanks all. I think I'll start with the rear shafts which seems easy enough. The front shafts are clearly a different proposition! Apart from replacement shafts, are there any seals, clips or similar I should have available in case needed? Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Get either the proper gaskets or some of the instant gasket stuff for the drive flanges on the front. Might be an idea to get a couple spare Circlips for the front drive shaft/drive flange area (assuming they have these on a late front axle?). They can quite easily go ping and I spent ages looking for one I twanged into the abyss that is a gravel drive! Depending how scabby yours are you might want a set of the rubber end caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 If you take the whole assembly off at the flange you can't get the halfshaft out. You would surely risk damaging the oil seal in the back of the swivel ball (if the shaft would even come out that way at all?)? and they are bloody heavy! I'm doing well getting things wrong in this thread! LF you're right, for some reason I got it into my head you wanted the diff off... Only one way to get the half shafts out. I wont comment any more, just so I don't confuse Phil any more!! is it friday yet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Are you sure it's the halfshafts at fault here? Drivetrain slop is present in even brand new land rovers.... so if you are not used to it it can be a little alarming at first. I'd pull the rears first, inspect and if not damaged/worn then you need to look elsewhere, I would begin with the prop UJs at the transfer box end and work my way down the transmission to the sliding joints, diff end UJ, Diff, then diff end of halfshaft, (then CV joint on front axle, does it click when on full lock driving slowly?) then hub end of halfshaft. If they all check out OK, then you are looking at either a diff or maybe transfer box. What mileage are you on? Sorry, the reasons for questions is not to send you off stripping the front axle when it could be perfectly OK.... To check the outer splines just remove the circlip and unbolt the drive flange and remove, it'll be pretty obvious if something is wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Are you sure it's the halfshafts at fault here? Drivetrain slop is present in even brand new land rovers.... so if you are not used to it it can be a little alarming at first. I'd pull the rears first, inspect and if not damaged/worn then you need to look elsewhere, I would begin with the prop UJs at the transfer box end and work my way down the transmission to the sliding joints, diff end UJ, Diff, then diff end of halfshaft, (then CV joint on front axle, does it click when on full lock driving slowly?) then hub end of halfshaft. If they all check out OK, then you are looking at either a diff or maybe transfer box. What mileage are you on? Sorry, the reasons for questions is not to send you off stripping the front axle when it could be perfectly OK.... To check the outer splines just remove the circlip and unbolt the drive flange and remove, it'll be pretty obvious if something is wrong... ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 Thanks, all, for the advice and details of the bits needed; that's very helpful although I'm a bit confused about the procedure for the front! I'm pretty sure that there's wear on the drive flanges and/or half shaft splines because I can see some 'slack' between the two if I jack up a wheel remove the end cap and agitate the wheel (I've checked two out of four). The vehicle's done well over 100,000 fairly hard miles including some fairly heavy off-road work and towing so I can forgive wear and tear! Cheers, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 So you may just need new drive flnages - five bolts and a gasket per corner and you're done. Usually the drive flanges wear in preference to the half shaft so pop some new ones on and see if that improves things. You'd want to replace them anyway if you were going to the expense of replacing the shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 I've replaced the flanges, which helped but didn't cure the slack. That was indeed an easy job, well within even my capabilities! Thanks, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 In that case do the rears, and see how much improved it is. The front axle really is a PITA to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 I actually enjoyed doing my front axle . Only pain was all the cleaning because it was full-o-sh!t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 I'll take the advice to do the rear shafts first and see what improvement that makes. Many thanks, everyone. Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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