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Front heavy duty axles for S III


carlosbeldia

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Hi there. I'm from Colombia and a friend of mine is looking for a HD version of front axles in his Series 3 1977 trial Land Rover. He have ARB 100% locker in the front, so every time he goes for a really hard track he needs a new half-shaft. Is any upgrade we can buy? he can't change front differential because it's a classic's competition.

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Meaning he can't install a Salisbury front axle either? They were factory fitted to some series, but of course not the one he's got..

Otherwise Seriestrek is a good option, either that or that brit, whats his name, the one who's webpage haven't been updated in a million years, can't seem to recall his name..

Argh, how annoying, I'm sure someone will chime in

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Meaning he can't install a Salisbury front axle either? They were factory fitted to some series, but of course not the one he's got..

Otherwise Seriestrek is a good option, either that or that brit, whats his name, the one who's webpage haven't been updated in a million years, can't seem to recall his name..

Argh, how annoying, I'm sure someone will chime in

Don't know which one you're talking about....

I reckon that it would be a PITA to source a Sals front axle where he is located, but that's only a guess.. And even if you find one, the halfshafts are just LR 24spline stuff, it's the diff that's far stronger. Same with Sals rear axles. So it would be of not much use as he's snapping axles, not diffs. Though I guess he might go snapping diffs when he fits stronger axles :unsure:

Too bad he has to stick with original type axles, otherwise there would be many options out there, axles from other 4wd's, D60's, Toy... whatever...

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Hi Folks

I am running GBR stuf in the front and has only broken a UJ yet, shafts (24spline) are or were made by MD I do not know who makes shafts for GBR now.

Series trek will not ship outside US, but it is not a problem because from my investigation from when I was in the market for upgrading parts I found out that his solution is not any as strong as the GBR one.

To day there are and even stronger solution but it is not straight forward it includes a bit off machining Robotman from here has done what I also have planed to upgrade to when my GBR stuff break if it does??!!

Regards

Ole

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Thanks for chiming in Ole, I was in over my neck on this one as I have never really looked into this upgrading stuff.. When you have all the shafts you wan't basically thrown at you, and you don't even break one once a year, I don't really see a need for upgrading. But it might be necessary down the road?? I don't know, but since my current landie is even lighter I doubt I'll have that many breakages. And I still have that Sal's front axle if everything goes pear-shaped ;)

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Hi Folks

I am running GBR stuf in the front and has only broken a UJ yet, shafts (24spline) are or were made by MD I do not know who makes shafts for GBR now.

Series trek will not ship outside US, but it is not a problem because from my investigation from when I was in the market for upgrading parts I found out that his solution is not any as strong as the GBR one.

I'm interested to here the explanation for this.

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The Material (4340)that Seriestrek uses are not as strong as the Hituff MD used to use and that I am told the new owner off the MD shats business uses.

At least that is what i found out.

But when he does not want to ship outside US it really does not matter!!

And the price approx 1000£ I will guestimate that Robotman's solution has cost 2/3 off that if not less

Regards

Ole

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Much less!

Quick description of my Series Front Axle.

Stage one axle casing but any Series casing would work as it's only the castor angle that is different.

Stage One Hubs and swivels. I got the whole Stage one axle complete with diff shafts CVs etc for £50. Sold the Diff for that much ;) Shafts are in storage for a rainy day ( price is scary lol). CVs where Donald Ducked but then again we won't be using them anyway.

New 24/23 Shafts in 4340 where supplied by Rakeway Motorsport at £140 each. These are coiler shafts with the spline cut extra long then just cut down to your required length. Not cheap but no dearer than any other 4340 LR shaft. I got a Set of early 110 AEU2522 CVs from a friend. I also got replacement swivels form LR Series these where dear but all Series swivels are expensive these days new.

New Railco bushes and King pins where machined up from cheap as chips standard Series ones. The drive flange needs to lose a few mm, again easy job on a lathe.

The last change is that the diapraghm that holds the shaft seal in the swivel needs removing and fitting the other way around to line up with the shaft seal flat which is in a slightly different location along the shaft.

Bolt it all together with you choice of 24 spline differential! I run a 24 Spline TrueTrac up Front and a 24 Spline pegged ARB with KAM 24 spline shafts in the rear (Shafts where bought second hand from this forum about five years ago for £50 I think it was for the pair. They have since taken an absolute beating, even took out a Detroit Locker without any sign of damage). Not bullet proof but significantly stronger whilst keeping within the constraints of using Series parts.

Apart from the cost of the Shafts and Diffs the rest really is just service parts after all.

Album of pictures.

Another alternative is;

Take a series casing weld on coiler axle end flanges. Bolt on TD5 Coiler hubs. Use the above shafts to accomodate the Series lengths. Drill an additional hole in the LH front steering arm. Use the two original holes for a front mounted track rod. Use the new hole for the drag link. Ignore the Ackerman issue, pretend you are a comp racer lol! (Much simplified but that's the bones of it).

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