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Door Sills


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Hi All,

So busy trying to find all the bits I still need to get my project in to be sprayed up. seems that whilst I have the sill channels, I don't have the door sills. Question is:

Do I need to get the door sills from mm4x4 or similar (RTC6206) or can I just put a checker plate sill on and not bother with the sill itself?

Thanks,

James

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My 90 has side steps, these hang below the sills and provide a way of getting in and offer some rudimentary protection for the sill panel too. I've bent one of them slightly by trying to use them as rock sliders. They do a great job of preventing damage from other car doors too, as the other doors hit that well before the bodywork.

My 110 has rock sliders, two very hefty pieces of galvanised box section which have replaced the sill panels entirely, but they don't really stick out enough to step on. They are very well attached to the chassis!

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My 110 has rock sliders, two very hefty pieces of galvanised box section which have replaced the sill panels entirely, but they don't really stick out enough to step on...

However if you want to use rock sliders as steps too, there are types you can buy with 'tree sliders' attached... You can use these as steps.

post-4644-0-10228800-1297432024_thumb.jpg

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However if you want to use rock sliders as steps too, there are types you can buy with 'tree sliders' attached... You can use these as steps.

post-4644-0-10228800-1297432024_thumb.jpg

The Chequer plate does mount on the sill section unless you custom make a chequer plate sill section to use the mounts that the sill normally uses. Side steps sit below the Sill section on two brackets at either end (most of the time) and tbh don't last very long off road ;)

Tree/Rock Sliders invariably replace the sill section and also utilize the built in high lift point in front of the rear wheel to maximise the strength of the slider.

As shown below with Dads 90.

- Early on with chequer plated sill section in place and side steps.

post-13446-0-15188700-1297447622_thumb.jpg

- Now with Tree sliders in place replacing the sill section and the removal of the side steps.

post-13446-0-73570900-1297447546_thumb.jpg

Also note that Tree sliders can also be referred to as nerf bars by some.

HTHs

Ryck

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Nice pictures Ryck, to change the subject what size tyres do you on the truck and do you run spacers?

The sizes on Dads motor are

Upper Previous Picture - 235/70 R16 BFG AT

Lower Current Picture - 235/85 R16 BGF MT

We hope to fit the 235/85 R16 new KM2's as soon as we can source some which should be the same profile as the KM.

Neither is run on spacers just on the standard deep dish alloy wheel that has from memory 25mm of offset. Turning cycle is still very good and no issues on the standard suspension.

Cheers

Ryck

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Are there any "nerf-bar" type sliders for a 110 that will allow them to be mounted up neatly to the bodywork but still clear the doors on the fuel lockers and have proper mounts on the rear of the bars for a ex-MOD 3-door? Or are such things strictly DIY?

Thanks,

Bill

Bill

Off the top of my head I would not know. However I would be very suprised if there wasn't something avaliable on the market. I would compare your mounts to the standard 5 door verion to see if they are any differences for starters. For it fitting neatly to the bodywork. If your fuel lockers open like normal doors then there shouldn't be an issue. Again a 110 version like the 90 will most likely just replace the sill section below the doors.

HTHs

Ryck

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Bill

Off the top of my head I would not know. However I would be very suprised if there wasn't something avaliable on the market. I would compare your mounts to the standard 5 door verion to see if they are any differences for starters. For it fitting neatly to the bodywork. If your fuel lockers open like normal doors then there shouldn't be an issue. Again a 110 version like the 90 will most likely just replace the sill section below the doors.

HTHs

Ryck

Well, that's the problem. The lockers themselves hang lower than the bottom edge of the box bodywork by about 3/8in. and the doors are probably almost an inch. If you run stock sills it's no problem or if you run sliders that are flush to the surface of the box; but the point of a decent slider is to stand a bit proud of the bodywork so that the bodywork is protected. With most sliders I have seen that do stand a bit out from the bodywork, they would require a lower upper surface, stepped down from that forward of the lockers, so that the doors would clear. If everyone can picture what I mean?

As far as the mounting points, I was lead to believe that a 3 door 110 is slightly different than a 5-door in the area just forward of the rear wheels. Just about in the same area where the rear rail of the lockers is attached. If the 3-door and 5-door 110s are the same in that area, than no problem, I guess. At least as far as mounting a slider up.

Cheers,

Bill

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Hey there,

I have put rock sliders with nerf bars on my 90 before now and that had bloody great big tubular bars which went to the chassis.

From the pic above the 110 rock sliders look very different to how I remember the 90 sliders. How do you attach the 110 rock sliders (looked at a thread on another forum - sorry, please don't hurt me), Fitting Rock Sliders to a 110, and they seem to say it's not plug and play, but swear, cry and despair.

Similarly to Bill, I have a 3 door 110 van (sort of), and so question is do you need to get different sliders depending on the no of doors? And where do the rock sliders mount (guessing chassis somewhere but some specifics would be great)?

Also, can anyone recommend a pair of rock sliders with nerf bars for a 3 door 110?

Thanks again,

James

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