disco_al Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 rather than go into too much detail, we've just swapped out a 200tdi for a 300 tdi (the rear main seal went on the 200, and we had a 300 sitting round so though why not??) it's all sat nicely in the chassis, so a 300 does fit to an lt77 using 200 mounts - with some fettling. But, it refuses to start. the timing belt was changed, we have been assured that it was a runner when removed, and have no doubt to suspect our source. all the timing marks were in the correct place, and they all lined back up after rotating the engine two or three times. we have fuel at the injectors, and a known good lift pump fitted. the filter is full of fuel, and fuel comes out of the bleed screw on the filter if you prime it using the lift pump. we have done all of the ususal checks, 12v into the solenoid (you can hear it click on the ignition) definately getting fuel at the injector heads, as we've cracked the tops off and it squirts out lovely. now it will fire after a mist of easy start across the inlet - not directly in, but a mist across the opening as its cranking, but it will not fire up and run on diesel - any ideas oh wise ones? it needs to be running by sunday afternoon, otherwise it's going to be a rush job to swap the repaired 200 back in ready for monday morning. and before anyone asks why we didn't just change the oil seal, it was because we wanted to run this 300 for a few months while we build the replacement defender up, ready for his rebuilt 300 to go into (we've got one in bits that's currently being overhauled) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon_81 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Had a very similar issue after an engine change in my friends Disco - 200tdi to 200tdi though Turned out to be pump timing was just off, and we had missed the copper washers off the bajo bolt for the pump fuel supply pipee tweaked the pump timing a tad and sorted the fuel leak and it fired up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Timing, definitely. Had the exact same symptoms when the pump was a tooth off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 When I put my 200 in it wouldn't start - turned out to be a bad earth strap connection..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Has the "new" engine been sitting about for long? The piston rings can dry out and goo up causing low compression, and thus a reluctance to fire up. All other suggestions are valid of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Try tow starting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Has the "new" engine been sitting about for long? The piston rings can dry out and goo up causing low compression, and thus a reluctance to fire up. All other suggestions are valid of course. If it fires up on easy start, I really doubt that's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 right, the timing has been checked and re checked and still no go so next step is we are going to try a different set if injectors to see if that makes a difference, and if all else fails we'll swap the injector pump for a spare one that we have. When I put my 200 in it wouldn't start - turned out to be a bad earth strap connection..... i'm sure i put it back on, but will double check anyway, will also run a jump lead from the block to the battery earth, just to be sure. If it fires up on easy start, I really doubt that's it. apart from the usual hammering sound of easy start, it sounds real nice when it fires any other suggestions are greatfully welcomed..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 When we rebuilt a friends 110 and we put the engine back in we had the choice of 2 white wires to connect to the stop solenoid. Both were live when ignition on, so we just picked one. We spent about 4 hours trying to start it (bleeding injectors etc) until we found out the wire we chose went to 0v on cranking Run a jump wire from the battery to stop solenoid and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 When we rebuilt a friends 110 and we put the engine back in we had the choice of 2 white wires to connect to the stop solenoid. Both were live when ignition on, so we just picked one. We spent about 4 hours trying to start it (bleeding injectors etc) until we found out the wire we chose went to 0v on cranking we've deduced that the stop solenoid is ok, as there is fuel from the injector pipes when cranking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robhybrid Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 When we rebuilt a friends 110 and we put the engine back in we had the choice of 2 white wires to connect to the stop solenoid. Both were live when ignition on, so we just picked one. We spent about 4 hours trying to start it (bleeding injectors etc) until we found out the wire we chose went to 0v on cranking Run a jump wire from the battery to stop solenoid and try again. Been there done that when I converted a series a few years ago, I must have wasted half a day, I could tell the fuel wasn't getting there as there was no smoke during cranking. I removed the centre out of the fuel solenoid initially before making up a small loom with a 5 pin solenoid to give + when the engine was cranking. I could tell the solenoid was working when you turned the ignition on as you could hear it and feel it but with the noise and vibration of cranking you couldn't tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 IT'S ALIIIIIVE!!!!! We had another go last night, and spotted something really silly. When everything is in the timed up position, it wouldn't fire, so we rotated the crank by hand through 1 revolution, which effectively puts the cam and fuel pump 180 deg out from the crank. after scratching our heads for a few minutes while we looked at the partially assembled bottom end on the engine stand, and thought of something..... So, we left the timing set with the crank at TDC on 1 & 4, the cam effectively 180 deg out, and set the pump to it's timed position - and it fired and ran!!!! Weird or what? none of the pulley's were disturbed when i changed the belt, it was a case of old belt off, new belt on, tighten tensioner, rotate engine couple of times to make sure it lines back up, job done. Cheers to all for the pointers, it gave us somewhere to look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Did you use the flywheel marker or the back cover marker to align the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Surely timing is normally set with N0.1 cylinder at TDC FIRING, at which point the crank and cam markings should align with ther reference points, and a pin can be fitted through the pump pulley to lock it in position. With the cam gear 180 out it sounds as though the timing has at some time been set on N0.4 cylinder, in which case the injector pipes must have been swapped to suit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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