RoaryV8 Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Well as the rear axle was almost stripped ready for the new parts, i decided to get the diff out ready for the pan to be welded up, And managed to source a complete Rear Hub with ABS ring etc, so hopefully picking that up in the morning and get it back working. But as i couldn't do much else decided to start messing with the exhaust, as i quickly bodged a box on the back for MOT man to be happy. Took the system off measured it all, moved the box into the centre and welded it up, and then Fiddled about and made a side exit... And a video of the new exhaust... http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/j409/spmobilemechanic/?action=view¤t=MOV01340.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwgriffiths Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Sounds awesome Is it louder than it was before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Wouldnt say its louder but before was quite raspy, as the box was right at the back coming straight out, this way there a lot of pipe after the box which has given a lot better sound to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwgriffiths Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 I can see through the floor of my RRC, through the silencer and through to the drive below at the moment so I've got an excuse to fit a super noisy exhaust Is it just a standard back box fitted in the centre? Expecting any problems with the MOT man? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 No its a stainless centre box from some jap sports thing down the scrap yard when i went down there. Passed MOT 2 months ago with the box on and well under on emissions and never said anything about the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Not a good idea working under a vehicle just sitting on stands. A few people have been killed that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Not a good idea working under a vehicle just sitting on stands. A few people have been killed that way. What else would you advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 What else would you advise? Exactly... Thats what they are there for to support the vehicle while working on it. Now working under it while on a jack..... thats a no no.. There 3 Tonne stands supporting just the rear of the RRC so say under 1 tonne its supporting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Exactly... Thats what they are there for to support the vehicle while working on it. Now working under it while on a jack..... thats a no no.. There 3 Tonne stands supporting just the rear of the RRC so say under 1 tonne its supporting. And all the guys that have been killed with them falling off thought exactly the same thing. I suppose the handbrake was holding it in place as there does not appear to be any chocks at the rear of the front wheels. http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/ohb-face/Documents/falling.pdf The 3 tonne rating is for the pair, not each stand and you would have well over a tonne on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 The drive is slightly sloping forwards and there are ramps at the front to stop it from moving. Its now been sat there for 4 days and no movement, strange noises etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I have worked under my 90 plenty of times on stands only, for example when replacing rear axle... Short of setting up some kind of maglev thing at the cost of 100's of thousands I'm not sure what else you can do... I always settle it onto the stands, then give it a good shove from all directions to doublecheck stability, wheels chocked. If in doubt then I stick a wheel or two under it as well so that if its does fall I will at least be crushed to he thickness of a disco rim, and not flat as a pancake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I have worked under my 90 plenty of times on stands only, for example when replacing rear axle... Short of setting up some kind of maglev thing at the cost of 100's of thousands I'm not sure what else you can do... I always settle it onto the stands, then give it a good shove from all directions to doublecheck stability, wheels chocked. If in doubt then I stick a wheel or two under it as well so that if its does fall I will at least be crushed to he thickness of a disco rim, and not flat as a pancake. That is about right if you have to do it. Make sure it is chocked on both sides of the wheels and have a backup in place (like spare wheel, etc) in case it falls. The problem when pulling the rear end out you also have the issue as to where to put the stands. I the case of this job in this thread, I would just try to plan in differently and not try to do too much at one time. For example, you can remove the diff centre and put the exhaust in with the wheels still on. Then do the hubs later where you do not have to be under the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cleland Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I the case of this job in this thread, I would just try to plan in differently and not try to do too much at one time. For example, you can remove the diff centre and put the exhaust in with the wheels still on. Then do the hubs later where you do not have to be under the vehicle. Exactly - if I'm working underneath then all four wheels are on. Short of pulling out an axle there's very little than can't be done with the wheels on, and even those things can be planned so that most of the work is wheels-on or reaching in from the side rather than being underneath. Just strikes me that squashed under 2 tonnes of Solihull's finest would be an unpleasant way to go, especially the couple of moments when you realise it's about to go! Cheers, AndyC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Belt and braces, always sound advice. I prefer to have the car on ramps before I get underneath, but of course it's harder to pull halfshafts out that way. Otherwise I use a set of stands under the axle and another stand on the chassis near my head, or ramps under the ends of the axle to "catch it" if it falls. That's one thing (of many) I like about EAS, I don't do so much jacking anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Or fit 37s like me, don't need a jack. Rory, how did you go about getting a nice cut out for the side exit? I have one to fit next week & wondered how to get the cut out so it was centered nicely around the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Very expensive but you can get a die-press to cut extremely neat circular holes. Poor man's way is a holesaw or tank cutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 I just used the circular cutting discs, the ones you attach to a drill bit etc... Came out ok, but it did move a little when cutting it so not perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I have a circular cutting disk but what I was wondering about was how to make sure you cut in the right place on the bodywork, so you know that the pipe will sit nice & central in the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Before welding the right angle for the exhaust to come out the side and before cutting the tailpipe bit to length, i pushed it into the exhaust and swivelled it up to the bottom of the wing and you then have the width of where the exhaust is going to sit. Then i just used my good old eyes to mark roughly where the centre of the exhaust is going to be up the wing. Then mark the middle point between the width and height and that should be the centre of where the exhaust comes out..... Well worked for me anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I wondered if there was a method that people used that I hadn't thought of, but I guess it's like you say just use your eyes etc to get it in the right place. I'm just such a perfectionist that if it sat off centre it would bug me for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 only other way is to cut the hole and make the exhaust to fit, instead of making the hole fit the exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 The exhaust is already made, it's a stainless side exit that I'm fitting, I'll just have to fiddle around make sure I get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Might be worth drilling a few small holes to try and get it in the centre of the exhaust, but then suppose you cant line it up inside the wing properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faseman7 Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Cut hole then align exhaust after rather than weld exhaust then trying to cut hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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