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Painting my Landy


JJB Serenity

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Hi all,

firstly, I hope I've put this in the right place :unsure:

I want to re paint my roof as it's got chipped and scratched quite a lot from greenlaning, falling up against trees and putting my roof rack on and taking it off again.

Now, I know even less about painting and decorating than I do about mechanics (if that's possible :lol: ) so I really need some basic help.

I've seen the paint work some of you guys have done with rollers and brushes on here so I thought I'd give it a go myself. My roof is a kind of white/ivory colour and I really want to keep it the same shade.

So what I need to know is:

1) what paint do I use? Where's best to get it from?

2) what prep work do I need to do and what tools etc do I need to do it? Do I need to rub the current paint down and if so, what do I use?

3) do I need to remove the roof first or can I cover up the rest of the truck with sheets/newspaper? Can I use masking tape or will it damage my paintwork?

4) what brushes/rollers do I use?

6) anything else I need to know?

thanks in advance for humouring me! I bet you've never come across anyone as incompetent as me when it comes to basic DIY tasks :P

Regards,

John

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1) what paint do I use? Where's best to get it from?

Local automotive paint supplier is a good bet. If they'll sell you old fashioned 'brush-on' paint. Turners Trade Paints (http://www.turnerstradepaints.co.uk/) do mail order if not.

2) what prep work do I need to do and what tools etc do I need to do it? Do I need to rub the current paint down and if so, what do I use?

If it's not gone back to ally then I would just give it a light sanding with some wet-and-dry. If it has, then you'll need to etch prime the relevant areas, then sand it smooth for top-coat.

3) do I need to remove the roof first or can I cover up the rest of the truck with sheets/newspaper? Can I use masking tape or will it damage my paintwork?

Can be done with the roof on, proper masking tape (from paint factors as above) won't damage the rest of your paintwork. Might be an easier job with the roof on the deck though, if you can dry-store the vehicle while you do it.

4) what brushes/rollers do I use?

I have seen people refer to using a short-pile roller (smooth type). Not done it myself though, yet.

6) anything else I need to know?

Undoubtably :D

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From my experience, i've brush painted 8 landies, and they always look great if done properly.

1. Go to an auto paint supplier and ask for brushing paint. My local stocks Corofast Brushing at about £15/L (need 1-2 ltr to do a full extrernal hartop swb)

2. If the current paint is good, a quick rub over with some wet/dry to take the shine off would be sufficient.

3. Roller / brush needs very little masking, i probably wouldn't do any to paint a roof. Do it on the car is fine.

4. I use a 1" brush and a 4" solid foam roller (not the fluffy ones) Change the roller regularly, i'd say use 2 for just the roof.

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wow, some terrific stuff there chaps, many thanks!

great websites recommended too, I think I'll have a chat with a local paint supplier (if I have one) or the people at Turners.

how long does brush on paint take to dry? is it best to paint under cover? I don't have a garage so run the risk of dust and stuff landing on the wet paint.

also, what's the difference between brush-on paint and coach enamel?

thanks again!

JB

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Something to consider because you haven't got a garage is possibly a couple of small, cheap gazebos, one over the front and one over the rear of the landy. You could then use a tarp between them to complete a temporary shelter?

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Whilst everyone is on my next project couple of questions

my paint has the odd bubbly area, my plan is to rub down with good old wet and dry then etch prime. then couple of cans of spray paint

Questions which etch prime would anyone recommend and do i need to then apply normal primer or just straight on with the gloss?

cheers

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Whilst everyone is on my next project couple of questions

my paint has the odd bubbly area, my plan is to rub down with good old wet and dry then etch prime. then couple of cans of spray paint

Questions which etch prime would anyone recommend and do i need to then apply normal primer or just straight on with the gloss?

cheers

12 months ago when I replaced the body cappings on my wagon, there was a lot of the bubbling you speak of, on the top of the rear wings. The approach I took was this:

Firstly I rubbed the areas down with 80 grit emery cloth, until I had nice shiney metal. To 'kill off' and inhibit future oxidation I then used wire wool and a phosphoric acid based treatment such as Jenolite. Next up was some no name Etch primer off E-blag (I have however heard good things about Acid 8 etch primer by Upol I believe). Then I whacked some red oxide primer on top, only because it was red and my wagon is red!

I plan to paint the whole vehicle one day, just so many other things to do! Hence the use of such an aggressive abrasive and the rough finish!

I have very little experience with paint and aluminium corrosion/oxidation, but this is what I did and after 12 months there's no sign of the oxidation returning.

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how long does brush on paint take to dry? is it best to paint under cover?

the paint i use is touch dry in less than half hour outside on a warm day, an hour or so in the garage when i's not warm.

I paint outside on a very still, warm day without cover and not had any problems, or inside if it's cold.

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I'm starting to get some aluminium oxidisation on my doors so I may try and deal with it following Spearos' method before painting my panels. I don't think I'll paint them this year, will probably do it next year some time, I may have a garage by that point. I'm defo going to do the roof this summer though.

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