Tanuki Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 While doing the Bilstein-thing to the rear of my 90, I noticed that the brake calipers are well corroded. I've been regularly [every couple of years - when replacing the pads] cleaning the pistons and applying a bit of Lockheed brake-grease, but now the exposed piston-parts are rather crusty and I don't think they will retract properly when it's time for another set of new pads. So - has anyone had any success with the stainless-steel piston kits I've seen advertised? Or should I just buy a pair of new calipers and be done with it for another decade? --Tanuki. "Sir Henry recently invented lighter-than-air, Helium-filled bubblewrap - enabling him to post an entire Land-Rover chassis by post for a mere £1.75. Royal Mail are not amused" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Check here: Recent thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Check here: Recent thread Thanks! I think I'll be making a call to Zeus over the next few days. It seems silly to replace the corroded calipers with another pair that will go the same way after a decade; Stainless is for Life! --Tanuki. One of the best friends of Progress is Speed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Before your rebuild make sure that pockets that the pads go in are not worn. If they are to worn your pads touch the disk on the cylindical bit. I had this problem on my 300TDI disco on the rear pads. Top tip I was given was to fit 110 rear pads - these hang on the pad pins rather than get pushed into the caliper with the finger spring. Problem solved! Only mod required is to drill out the securing pin holes in the caliper to suit the bigger 110 pad pins. Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Having contributed to that original thread, I'll add this by way of an update - my callipers are now working beautifully with the Zeus pistons with no leaks, binding or any other fault. Brake performance is incredible, since I already had EBC pads and discs. I really do recommend rebuilding with Zeus pistons over new callipers, especially pattern parts, and recommend EBC grooved and drilled discs and "Green Stuff" pads when yours are up for renewal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokinv8 Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Having contributed to that original thread, I'll add this by way of an update - my callipers are now working beautifully with the Zeus pistons with no leaks, binding or any other fault. Brake performance is incredible, since I already had EBC pads and discs. I really do recommend rebuilding with Zeus pistons over new callipers, especially pattern parts, and recommend EBC grooved and drilled discs and "Green Stuff" pads when yours are up for renewal. Do you offroad your defender? Only reason I ask is because I wanted to know what the wear rate was like with the Green Stuff pads over OE ones? I seem to go through rear pads on my 90 (Originally a drum axle) at quite a fair rate, about 2 sets of rears to 1 of fronts. I have used green stuff and red stuff pads on my 200sx and found they wore well and gave good feel. However the yellow pads on my Tvr squeal like hell and dont have any bite till theyre quite hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 No, it doesn't get used off road (it's an RRC rather thana Defender, but the system is comparable with many shared components, including the calliper design, discs, pads and pistons). The wear rate is very good - despite several of the seized pistons holding thepads in continuous contact with the discs for quite se time, the pad have plenty of life left in them. I haven't tried the red or yellow pads, but I believe them to be for high performance use, giving greater braking but at thecost of increased wear, and seem to recall that one of those specs is not meant to be used on road. I think the blue ones are meant to have braking performance similar to standard pad but with very long life. It's all explained on EBC's website, but I'm very pleased with the green pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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