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warn winch motor


trt1617

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Evening all not really sure where to post this so ill try in here

recently got a warn 8274 and got it all clean and painted fitted to the truck looks good waiting for some rope for it but fitted my steel cable from my old winch to check it all works under load and stuff :)

and it does :D

well kind of anyway very suprised to find how easy it is to nearly stall the thing :( now i know they are geared fast and its way faster than my old one under no or light loads,

its an old one but had a new motor put on it a few years back and to be honest the motor looks really well inside and is a splined drive one???

im led to belive the early ones had a keywayed motor is this true??

does andone know how to tell what hp motor i have its got a warn plate and serial number on it but no other markings??

starting to think its a 2.5hp one and the only way its gonna pull my truck on anything other than a slight incline is to change the motor for a bow motor or something with more balls ;)

any ideas??????

many thanks

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something not right there,Im on standard motor, i snap my rope before mine stalls and it drags my truck over anything. . the splined shaft motors are the late type, have you check that the winch is not full of rust and has oil in it, when you took cap of end of the motor were all the brushed free and making a good contact? and how long were they? could also check earths always over looking but is a must! and lead size is up to the job

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the motor is clean and the brushes are like new and free the winch itself is clean and oiled inside as i totally stripped it before painting it

i have used the same wire that was on my truck already and that was ok on my old winch apart from a carp cut off switch and i replaced that before putting the warn on

at work i hooked the cable to a container we have out the back and the truck was on damp long grass foot on the brake and it was just about manageing to move the truck and i mean only just like mm by mm

old winch was a cheap one from ebay and that would drag my truck along tarmac with all the wheels locked all be it slowly :)

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sorry didnt mean oil in the motor :D just where it was meant to be

havent got round to cheaking it with a meter today been out building a kiddys play house as a favour for someone so will try tommorow

anyone got a stardard warn that works ok that they can bung a meter on and get some known good readings at the motor under load????

thanks

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when you say you cleaned it did you completely dissassemble the gears brakes the lot clean them and greese them and reassemble? if the 8274 has been stood for a while then I've had it where the brake and the cam for the brake seize up and this will drag the motor right down. You will need to strip the brake and the take out the whole shaft for the brake and clean and greese the whole cam system inside the gear box.

my 2.5 hp motor only ever struggled once and by all accounts of the hole most standard motors struggled. we had to +come out of a wet bog at 45 degrees up a short steep sloppy climb

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ok it had stood for a while an i did strip the external part ot the brake off but didnt take the shaft or cam gear out that may be the problem then!!!

are there any other symptoms if this is the case??

as the brake seems to work ok and it will free spool out ok and power out easily and power in with no load easy? :blink:

thanks

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whole lot sounds odd. my frieends did the same and it burnt his motor out. what size cables are you running? who'S solinoid are you running? are you running a dedicated earth return? are all your contacts clean?

When you spool in on a free rope do you get over run or does it stop when you let go of the switch?

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Yea when its putting cable on the drum with no load i will over run if thats the correct term as in you let go of the switch and the drum keeps turning for a short while, the cable was what was on the truck already for a 12000lb winch and that worked ok gonna have to got the meter on it at some point i guess and see whats going on the earth cable is on the chassis at the front of the truck might try running a cable back to the batterys and see if that helps

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Oh dear, this is my old winch. It would pull the side off a house when I had it.

8.5v is dire, I only had fairly small power cable but I did have a direct earth return to the battery. There is a threaded hole on the underside of the motor to attatch one.

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very tempted to say earth fault. Get it running back to your battery. wiring can be change for bigger stuff later as standard wiring will let the winch work as it should, it just becomes a problem when you start abusing the winch like we do then you need big fine stranded cables to keep the current flowing better.

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yea its your old winch mate gonna try the earth cable back to the battery as soon as i get chance to but surely it wouldent drop the power of both batterys down to 8.5v at the batterys?at the motor yea if it had a bad earth but surely the voltage would stay up at the battery end??

have got the earth bolted to the under side of the motor so should be ok that end

pat pending have you any idea if it was a 2.5hp motor that was fitted??

might just for testing run a pair of big jump leads i have from the battery and see if it makes a difference

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8.5v at the battery! I thought you meant at the motor.

I would be tempted to say either something is going dead short or you have a duff battery.

I've no idea what hp the motor is, does it not say on the plate on top? I just rung Ryders and said "send me motor", and that's what came.

As you've discovered it never did much work. When I did use it, it would pull perfectly.

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havent had time to get to the truck today but due to the higher gearing of the warn the amp draw under load would be more yes?

if so could the fact that i used the engine harness off the td engine when i put the 300 tdi in my truck have something to do with the problem as i seem to remember the wire joining the alt to the starter being made up of like 3 bits of wire.and with the extra amp draw maybe they are not up to the job as im sure the 100 amp disco alternator should be :)

will try and get out to look at it some time as its starting to bug me now as i wouldnt want to get it stuck somewhere as it is coz its not gonna pull itself out of sod all

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If that's the case you'll probably find it's your earth wire as your sending it back through the chassis. Remember what ever you put into the winch you have to take away. And putting your 12 v back throuugh a piece of wire half the size will be like driving a square peg through a round hole, it will go but it will take some doing and it will leave something behind

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im sorry but it isnt the alt charge wires, i ran a std 55amp alt on my tdi powering twin optimas that supplied power to twin 8274's with no hassle

mrht can back me on that.

get that earth direct back to the batterys and im sure it will cure it

ive got twin gp winches front and rear, and i forgot to refit the earth lead to the front winch on the last outing, which lead to it not being able to bugger all until i refitted it

however the back worked fine

i remember years ago u kept getting hassle with my rear huskey with, that also turned out to be poor earth's. the chassis just aint good enough really as you have got 4 points of contact before it hits the battery rather than two good points when going direct

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i fully agree with dan. I've run a 55 amp till now and never had a problem, yet seen people with 120 amps running out of battery power. get your connections clean and use big cabling to feed the motors and they will keep pulling allday.

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well it seams i have a few wireing problems that seen to be only present when the winch is under load :blink:

1 as you have all mostly said the earth cable for the motor is being one as with a jump lead back from the motor to the battery it is much better and would seem useable the system drops to about 10.5v and i cant stall the winch so with a proper cable and terminals on it should be even better :)

2 seems the main pos battery terminal is playing up while there is load on the winch as i can wiggle the wire and it starts to get lets say warm so guessing some sort of carp connection in the battery terminal where the lead goes in :)

3 gonna change the wires between the alt and the starter coz while iv been looking around them it seems they have been very hot at some point and the insulation is cracked in places so think it will help if the amps from the alt can get back to the battery in the 1st place :)

4 just to be sure ran a cable from the battery to the solenoid to bypass the original power cable and this also seemed to make a difference :)

think im just gonna rip all the winch electrics off and start again :D

well thanks for all the advise and one last question what size wire would be suitable for the power and earth cable to be made from?????

thanks

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I used 35mm cable for my lowline winch, for an 8274 I might be inclined to use 40mm or even 50mm if I could get it at a decent price. Bigger the better really, it's just as they get bigger they get more of a pain to route.

Welding cable is nice and flexible :)

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I use high end wlders cable at 70mm2 fine mulitiepul strands very flexible (but I did get it free). as big as you can buy and the less problem you'll have from them. make sure your battery links are made of the same stuff if your running 2 batterys. make sure your curcit brakers are big enough for the job as well

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