Orgasmic Farmer Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Don't assume the pistons are not stuck. I put brand new calipers on the rear of a disco and the pistons needed de-seizing after less than 6 months. I never did find out what the problem with my Disco brakes were but they were rubbish. I changed everything bar the shuttle/bias valve thingy. I am now wondering if that was at fault!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Some 110s, I believe ones with heavy duty rear brakes as supplied to some utilities, have different rear brakes. The 'normal' brake shoes do not work properly on the utility 110s as the adjusters (snail cams) are in the wrong place. Sorry to be little help, but see if you can buy shoes for heavy duty brakes - it might just make all the difference. A good friend of mine had exactly this issue on his 110 and it took ages to sort out. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 All 90/110 and Defender vehicles have metric brake systems, so the fittings on the cylinders/T-pieces etc should be 10x1mm. 3/16" pipe though. This is only true so long as a previous owner hasn't fiddled about with it! As for flaring tools, I have this one (2/3 down the page) which is pretty good. It's not a 'proper' one like the Sykes Pickavant ones, but then it's 1/4 of the price. I've used it to do brakes on all my cars, including the entire brake/clutch systems on my 88", without any leaks yet. Use it with care, and inspect the flares before fitting the pipe though. Remember this is the brakes, and it's the last thing between you and that tree/other car/pedestrian etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Well bit of an update, I changed the master cylinder and decided on a new servo while it was out. Then set about bleeding the master cylinder first then went round the brakes. Much better feel to the pedal spongieness has gone...... However the pedal doesnt do anything till halfway down (except feel like custard) then feels really solid. This is when the brakes actually work... for the last 2-3 inches and then not a great confidence inspiring braking effort. The old master cylinder was full of black crud and sludge when tipped out so I have no doubt this was the spongy bit. I have read a post about the rear wheel cylinders being a PITA to bleed the air out of, I am wondering if this may be my next task. I have to check the front/rear pipe clamping first as mentioned above. To make sure I am not chasing wild geese. Thanks for the tips so far, will continue and report back. I'd like to get the brakes reasonable before deciding on the disc conversion as I started pricing bits and got to £400 then decided to fix the master cylinder/drums first. Pete i'm just doing a rear disc conversion on my 110. here's what it cost calipers £80 new slotted/grooved disc's £36 110 front hubs £30 EBC ultimax pads/pins £28 so not as exspensive as what you think.i'm also upgrading the fronts to vented,total £150 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Well Pat and others you were spot on, both leading one side both trailing on the other. Although in my defence there was the same amount (top to bottom) of friction material on all four shoes, that were fitted give or take 5mm. Bought some much improved mintex 110/130 HD shoes STC2798, or similar. Beach to get on but they adjust up nicely. While I was there I fitted some new snail cam adjusters RTC3176, as my old ones were tight and crusty. However the Britpart quality was soon evident. washers and spacers wouldn't fit over the bolt part. Out came the file for some adjust ment. Seeing how thebolt into the post tightened up didn't fill me full of confidence. On two of them the hole wasn't even central. I used loctite and added a spot of arc weld to the side of each bolt head/cam once they were tight. They look/work ok now but another buyer beware britpart item. Just a couple of axle brake pipes to make up now, after close inspection of my old ones. I decided while it was apart I'd do the brake bleed job once. should have it all back together next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Sorry for dragging this back up a year on, been for mot this morning and with all the bits changed the brake effort was 62%. While a bare pass, I'm going down the disc route as landy v8 has. want to try and retain as much as possible and use the wider bearinged early rear stub axles I have on. Landy v8 do you have part no's for the bits specced. Or does anyone have a techy guide to axle swap. I've seen the diesel jm thread. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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