discomikey Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 so i am around 30% of the way through rewiring the series 2 project. done the headlights main and dip, dip warning lights, sidelights and horn. what i need to know is, what does a series 2 standard dash look like, as mine i think has been modified. in the main panel there is a speedo, and the other clock has amperage, fuel level and main beam warning light in it. obviously coolant temp and oil pressure are important, but where do they go? also is the headlight switch the one around the ignition barrel? and where does the indicator switch go? any help and pictures would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 also is the starter a push type button under the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 sounds like it to me....theres a picture of a Series 2 dash on my facebook...i'll try and transfer it over... headlights should be round ignition barrel, dim/dip on floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Aren't you part of the internet generation? Dear me... http://images.google.co.uk/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=land+rover+series+2+dashboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 with luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 There are early ser 11 dash then early 11a then later black 11a. You don't have water temp on earlier ones. I fitted two segment from ser. 3 round dial to gain the later fuel gauge ( old sender unobtainable or ££) and a w/temp gauge. Keeps it almost original looking. The early ser11 has a pinhole main beam light. 11a have jewel type like ser 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Retro. i did google it but all sorts of different things came up and most of them are modified. which meant it didnt really answer my question, i did figure it out eventually using the genuine land rover series 2 and 2a repair operation manual. which i found out is worth over £70 but i got it chucked in the deal with the series 2. im still unclear about a couple of things. firstly is there a way of obtaining a headlight/ignition switch for a reasonable price? secondly does the voltage control box give out a switched live on the ignition and sort of act as a relay? i.e am i supposed to draw my switched lives from here. and thirdly there is no signs of any indicators or wiring in the haynes manual or the genuine land rover manual. so i dont know what the indicator switch looks like or where it is situated, i took a guess that if i couldnt find out id use a column mounted 2A indicator stalk but the wiring can be moved to the dash even though theres no holes in the panel for indicators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 <div> secondly does the voltage control box give out a switched live on the ignition and sort of act as a relay? i.e am i supposed to draw my switched lives from here. There are feeds from that reg box after the only main fuse. The perm live from reg box goes to A on ign.switch. 3 other spades on that barrel are S H and IGN (switched feed) I have seen the switch for not too much. Will try to remember where and post up......probably copies. I have a gen one and a copy for spare. Was using the copy and it seems ok. You need the spring that acts like a circlip to hold it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I'll have a look at the Series II tomorrow, its coming out for a re-wire anyway, challenge is to have it done for christmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 i have the old unit and the retainins spring clip thing, only its missing the contact bushes in the light switch part so the headlight part doesent work, also i think i have lost the key, i can get the barrel out though. just having a thought, as the engine thats going in has an alternator and not a dynomometer i dont need the voltage control box do i? i think its only for the regulation of the dynomometer system as its speed controlled unlike an alternator which can run full charging power at almost tickover. and the alternator has the regulating diode system built in... well thats my logic unless im mixing up the voltage control box with another box. in which case, will the ignition switch be okay to run all the switched live components through or is there some sort of relay.they have to run through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 well its taken me roughly 13 work hours to do what ive done so far and all i have left to do is connect up a switch or 2 (the ones im not sure about), wire up the engine ancilliaries and actually plug in the lights and their earths obvoiusly the lights will not be plugged in untill the post respray rebuild. the engine ancilliaries should take me roughly half a day, so 4 or 5 hours. but i want to get the ignition wiring sorted first, and ill probably wire up the engine once its in place. unlike the front wings which i could run the wires along the bulkhead and then cut to length with safety margins thus not needing to actually fit the wings making the job much easier, i think it will be easier to route the wires round the engine neatly once its placed in, then i know where i can mount them and route them in a way they wont rub on the block. that reminds me, where is the wash wipe switch and what does it look like? as dont want to fit an out of place item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 If you are going to town on wiring and fitting Alternator, the regulator is not needed. When you change from pos to neg earth there are a few instruments to turn around.......and you will need a voltage stabiliser ( 6 quid from padd'cks). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 VWP have some nice looking replacement ignition switches that probably wouldn't look out of place on a non-concoors restoration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 ill take a look however apart from the galv chassis and negative earth it will be more or less concours which is why im asking about the correct ignition and indicator switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Well it will be original Magna tec indicator ser 2 unit you need. Ebay or beg one from someone. If you have original fuel tank then make sure sender gauge works, then check old style fuel gage on dash clock. If a new tank with new sender then you will need a ser 111 or similar dash gauge to go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 yes ive heard that, im hoping it does work i will have to wait till next week for that though as i am going to wire that up along with the engine anciliaries at the same time, after i have an ignition switch and the engine is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 found some stuff out it is supposed to have the same type of indicator stalk as on a 2a i.e. column mounted so my wires are in the correct place for that. i need to get hold of a ignition/headlight switch. hopefully second hand, and the indicator stalk, also hopefully secondhand. im unsure what brake light switch to use? and where its mounted. what i need to do i think is take a visit to my mate who has a few series 2's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X4byV8 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 check out http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php They have a good range of old style lucas equipment. if they dont have it on the website give them a call as most of the time they can get hold of it. As for the brake light switch it may be a pressure switch fitted to the first branch from the master cylinder. I changed my 2a one to a push type that is mounted on the master cylinder, it operates off the push rod. I found it more reliable and you can set its operation to the positon of the pedal easily. Doesn't stay on or flicker if the brakes are a bit slow at operating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Effortless Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 firstly is there a way of obtaining a headlight/ignition switch for a reasonable price? I had this a year ago when my headlamp/ignition switch failed. My eyes popped out at the price of NOS ones. I did a bit of shopping about, found plenty of cheap switches that would do the job, but then decided that as the old switch was of good enough quality to last 50 years, I would get another one. Duly done, from Dunsfold, for about £70 IIRC. I'm happy as Larry now, and have completely forgotton the pain of buying it. Also, oil pressure and water temperature gauges weren't standard fitment, although there was a 52mm twin capillary gauge available, with both oil press & water temp dial on the same dial, with 180 degree sweep. I had one fitted on my '65 Aussie army 88". HTH, Effortless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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