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Can't stop my new brake pipes leaking! HELP please


duncmc

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I don't think your single flare has any thing wrong with it, its much like the link instructions shows.

To be honest your not that far away.

Are they leaking at the ftg top the very end were the tube flare is, or where the tube comes out the ftg. Re check your fitting threads and the flare required.

Practise nipping them up it might help.

I had a go with my kit. The first 2 were rubbish.

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Are you sure they need to be double flares? I thought they had the 'bulb' type on the ABS block...?

Sorry, yes I'm getting mixed up, they are the bulb type flare on the ABS block.

I don't think your single flare has any thing wrong with it, its much like the link instructions shows.

To be honest your not that far away.

Are they leaking at the ftg top the very end were the tube flare is, or where the tube comes out the ftg. Re check your fitting threads and the flare required.

Practise nipping them up it might help.

I had a go with my kit. The first 2 were rubbish.

My flares look ok when they are in the clamp still, but they are virtually all off to one side slightly so when in the fitting and tightened up in the old ABS block they don't squash evenly. I have been practicing that too and then looking at them when taken out. I have even tried annealing the pipe too but it didn't make much difference. I have tried going slowly, everything. I must be doing something just slightly wrong I think. I have rechecked the fittings and the flare type needed and all that is ok.

I am going to do some more practicing now and see if I can get them better. I'll take some pics of what I get and post them.

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I think I may have cracked it. Found this

which is youtube video using a tool like the Clarke set making a bubble flare. He uses the FLAT side of the clamp not the side with the bevel in it. So I tried that, and the results are better. Still a bit off centre but better. I can only do that though on the Clarke set. No other instructions I have seen say to do that.

(moderators I am not sure if I have linked the video correctly, please tell me if its wrong. Thanks.)

IMG_0627.jpgIMG_0628.jpgIMG_0629.jpg

and then after tightening up in the old ABS block.

IMG_0630.jpgIMG_0631.jpg

It looks much better, and I am getting even marks on the flare so it looks promising. The bore is getting squashed a bit though.

I will try some on the car tomorrow, and see if they leak or not. Fingers crossed.

Edited by duncmc
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Pictures 3 and 4 look like well formed flares. Pic 5 looks like the pipe has got a bit squashed into the hole.

Things to check before flaring - cut end is square to the pipe - this will help prevent wonky flares, also make sure the bore is de-burred.

In my own experience I've never had any problem getting flares to seal, even if not formed that well. Remember, when you tighten the joint the copper gets a good squashing anyway and generally forms itself to suit the conditions.

It seems you have the correct type of nut, but does it screw into the block easily? If the block threads are messy or corroded they can stop you tightening the nut as far as it needs to go, so you think all is tight but it may not be how you think. Just a thought - apologies if you've already checked this.

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Look slike you are making progress with those flares, don't worry about it being slightly off centre, but it does look slightly like you have a tiny bit too much sticking out when flaring, you should be able to tighten it right down so the die is flat to the tool.

Good luck :)

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I have just remade all the flares that where causing me trouble. Only one pipe I could save, the rest I had to fit new ones (again)!

I haven't got time now to bleed it, besides no helper. So I'll hopefully see if it leaks tomorrow afternoon. Fingers crossed.

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Brakes bled, and only a little nip needed on 1 flare/nut! RESULT. :i-m_so_happy:

I still have a soft pedal, but as has been suggested before I'll take it for a run and see if improves before I bleed it again.

Thanks everyone who helped.

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Marevellous, well done :) I've never been able to get a perfect pedal just by bleeding, a short drive always seems to sort it out (1/4 mile or so :))

I gave it a real good workout on the brakes, for around 3 miles, and it didn't firm up. They worked well, just with a soft pedal so I decided I'd have to bleed it again. Strangely though as soon as I started it up to put the car in the garage the pedal firmed up straight away. I'll just check for leaks again now.

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OK, did you put stainless hoses in or regular rubber ones?

If rubber, clamp one, then try the pedal, then the next etc, and you can narrow down which line is giving you grief, and just bleed that one, if none of them do it then it'll be the ABS block.... :)

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I hope you have cracked it. I always find the 2 person method best for bleeding brakes . Start with the one furthest away from the resevoir, rear p/s - rear d/s - front p/s and front d/s last. Good luck

Thanks Bushwacker. It does seem fine now thanks. I also found that the 2 person method worked best, didn't get very far with the Eezibleed. I just need some ice and snow now to test the ABS and traction control. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Glad you sorted it, I have not long gone through the same issue. I bought a cheapo kit on ebay & had the same problems, don't think it was the kit just me as I had never done it before & it need s a bit of practise. Also the cheap kits don't make bubble flares only double or single, you have to flip the tool over & make the bubble flares on the flat side. I had many that didn't centre properly & spent far too long in the garage cussing & moaning to myself about the ones that went wrong. Got fed up in the end with trying to be such a perfectionist & fitted them all only to have one leak, after tightning it a few times I finally got it to seal. :)

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