Frax Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Nice one Wabbit the Bearmach pulley turned up yesterday. No fault of LRDirect who I asked to deliver quick. They did post it next day but the delivery company dropped it off at the wrong house, just my luck. Great quality pulley though - fitted and back on the road at last.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Glad you are back on the road again Hope the new pulley keeps your timing belts wander lust in check. Might be worth having a look up the wading plug hole in the timing chest when you have done a few hundred miles to make sure no more 'fluff' has appeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 I will do that, I am hoping to get some miles on her before I ever have to take another radiator out. Its not a bad job to do but when you take it apart 4 times in one month it gets a bit to much. Thank you for your help - if you had not told me about the pulley I would have never known and I could see me having to do this on a regular basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 No probs, we're all here to help each other, I really enjoyed reading your build thread, thanks for going to the trouble of documenting your rebuild I hope your radiator gets a chance to stay in place for a good while now BTW it is possible to do the timing belt without removing the radiator or disconnecting any pipework, you can place a cut through the bottom part of the radiator cowling which allows it to be removed without taking the radiator out, the cowling is very flexible (mine had been cut by the previous owner). Once the cowling and fan are out of the way you have enough space to do the timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I could do it without removing the radiator but after the first time when I got it one tooth out I like to see what I am doing. It would be easy as I have an electric fan. Saying that I have done the job so often now that I am a lot more confident. Glad you liked the build thread - I enjoyed doing it and still read over it now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Oops, I forgot you had an electric fan and now you mention it I remember you saying you did it without removing the radiator before I bet you could probably manage a timing belt change now by feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Genuine ERR5057 You can take the top off to clean the internal filter Delphi 0E HFP 502 I bought one of these 6 months ago thinking that it was a wise investment spenidng more - well it's not. I have found out that it has failed in the same way as a Britpart one usually does. So I fitted a spare Blue Box pump I had as a get me home. The Britpart pump had a crack running all the way around one of the mounting flanges where the pivot pin had been forced in!!!! There is no quality lift pump available for under £70 for a 300tdi.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Having not had one fail yet (why am I jinxing myself like this?) has anyone tried replacing the pin? Or does it trash other parts as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 We succesfuly dismantle the pivot pin and got the arm out, but the pin on the diaphragm was shagged, nothing left of the flange for the arm to pull on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Was there any trace of lubrication on the diaphragm pin? Just wondering if something simple would stop it happening on a new pump ... I suppose it would need to be a special grease so as not to attack the diaphragm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 There was evidence of engine oil having reached in there, but I will add oil anyway when I fit the new one. I'm just miffed at paying more for a supposedly better Delphi item to find it is as a bad as a Britpart item (a non cracked one!) I will post up a photo of the Britpart one once I have removed it. Cracked out of the box and fitted out of Sunday 11pm necessity.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Wingnut I thought I was the unlucky one, I landed up not fitting my new pump as the old one was OK so will just keep it for a spare. Went for a run today - 70 mile round trip pulling a 2 ton trailer (nothing like breaking it in gently). All went OK except I have an annoying squeak which seams to be speed related and only happens when the engine is pulling. .....something else to look at....vibs at 50 mph + but may need to balance my tires and check my UJ's. Never a dull moment.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Not only that I've got an out of balance rear prop that destorys diff pinion bearings - not a cheap proper either as it came from one of the best makers..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRNZ Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Wingnut I thought I was the unlucky one, I landed up not fitting my new pump as the old one was OK so will just keep it for a spare. Went for a run today - 70 mile round trip pulling a 2 ton trailer (nothing like breaking it in gently). All went OK except I have an annoying squeak which seams to be speed related and only happens when the engine is pulling. .....something else to look at....vibs at 50 mph + but may need to balance my tires and check my UJ's. Never a dull moment.. I often get a squeak when pulling under load, and I tend to cure it by cleaning the crankshaft pulley grooves with a toothbrush. Dust/grime gets in there and makes the serpentine belt squeel. Check all your pulleys for dirt cheers P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Tires balanced today and still vibrating so went over to a mates and put it on his ramp, not that you need a ramp to get underneath but he offered. Checked UJ play about 3 days ago and I had slight movement but nothing scary. Tonight we found that the back Prop UJ next to the diff was gone, he recons that the noise I was getting was the little roller bearing destroying them selves and now some have left. New greasable UJ ordered and with some luck will be here tomorrow. Will update if they arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Well they turned up (miracle) out I was again under the old girl. Removed u/s UJ and fitted new greasable one - replaced and went for a run 30mph and no vibs so foot down and at 70mph still like a good one with no vibration. Bought 4 of these but only changed the u/s one so have lots of spares for the next time. I did notice that the front and back props are different. The front is phased and the back is not - is this correct. Cant remember splitting them but it was in bits for about 8 month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Front prop should be out of phase slightly to account for different angles of diff pinion and t-box. Rear prop should be in-line as the angles are parallel, so vibrations are to an extent self-cancelled under normal conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Turned out to be a long thread as it turns out, started with lift pump then timing and seals and ended I hope with vibration. I suppose that is the way it goes though - thanks to all who have help and stayed with me. Well till next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just thought I would post up my new mileage after fitting the lift pump with a spacer.......WOW! 267 miles to a tank full, for my truck it's awesome, I usually hover around 200 if I'm lucky, and I'm still driving the truck like I stole it, woohoo Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 If it's any consolation Gordon, my 90 has just started to rumbly vibrate on overrun, so I'll be doing a UJ too shortly Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Well Mo you did say it would never end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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