coachman Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hello everyone ,I am new to the green oval world so bear with me please , I bought ( last week ) a Discovery 300 tdi 94 model ,I found it strange having to unlock /lock doors with a key , although I do remember those halicon days . The car ( Discovery )( do we call them cars !) had previosly been used as a dog taxi ( x4)so I have had quite a cleaning job ,(does anyone know a priority cleanser ), as I became more used to my `new`car I decided to clean the rear by taking out the rear carpet ( and sound deadening mat ) .I can hear you all saying OH NO, and you were correct, the boot floor is rusted through inparts ( very big parts ) I know that I should have looked but I trusted the Garage . Does anyone have any CONSTRUCTIVE suggestions PLEASE . A further problem I have encountered is ,how do I select the DIFF LOCK , is it selected on the move or do I stop the car ,at the moment the selector refuses to move except between high low box .Could it have seized through misuse or lack of use . The gearbox is an automatic ,are there any problems with this ? .Are there any greenlaning clubs in my area Wakefield West Yorkshire . Thankyou coachman . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 hiya and welcome to the world of land rovers boot floors are VERY common to rust on discos, also inner wings, body mounts in fact anywhere where there is pig iron on it!! seriously though, if you can find a mate or someone with knolage of discos, he will immediatly find any more rust problems you may have. the diff lock is selected while the car is stationary, moving the lever across as shown on the diagram in front of the lever. never had the problem myself but have heard that it can sieze through lack of use, there is a way of freeing it up, though not sure how, am sure 1 of the gurus on here will be able to explain if your not apposed to twirling a spanner or 2!! when you get it working only use the diff lock when needed, running on hard roads etc puts pressure on the rest of the transmission and can lead to premature failure, i know this sounds obvious, but i have heard new land rover owners doing this and when asked to explain why they came out with "but i wanna use it!!" hope this has helped and again welcome to our world,!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 just a thought some 300 discos, model dependent, came with remote central locking, do you know what model it is?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterdon Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 It should have remote locking. Being a '94 it will need a one button fob, have a look at http://www.remotekey.co.uk/cars/land-rover/discovery-I-1993/ for more info. The diff lock can be moved with some not so gentle force if necessary, but if not do a search on here for how to free it off, there are a number of threads about it. Welcome to the wonderful world of Landrover, it's addictive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igol Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 And dont worry if you cant weld, you'll soon be able too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biffo Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have exactly the same year vehicle, 300TDI auto. You can get replacement floor pans for the boot, and you'll soon learn how to weld. To free the difflock take off the trim etc around the gearstick (consult Mr Haynes, but it's easy enough) until you can see where the linkage etc is. The difflock is worked by a shaft that goes in and out with the movement of the linkage (lock in/out on the photo), drown this in WD40 or similar and help it to move a bit at a time, once you've got it moving, oil it up with engine oil or soft grease. you'll see from the photo where this shaft is, and they seize up because they don't get used on a vehicle that doesn't go off road. Whilst we're looking at the photo, check out the piece at the end of the shaft (near to where it says "lock linkage to pin" ) this is the bit that gets bent through ham-fisted range changes, leaving you stuck in one range or the other. They are an absolute B--TA-D to change, so much so that I have cut a window into the tunnel and fixed a hinged flap over it as I had to change one half way up a French hillside once, and did not enjoy it! I disagree with the previous poster on how to change the difflock /range, it's actually printed on the tunnel. You need to be travelling in a straight line at a speed less than walking pace, select neutral with the main g/stick, and then select what-ever you're going for, then reselect the gear that you want. You need the shafts in the transfer box to be revolving slowly to make an easy change every time. If you don't do it this way, you'll soon be needing to change the piece below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachman Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 hiya and welcome to the world of land rovers boot floors are VERY common to rust on discos, also inner wings, body mounts in fact anywhere where there is pig iron on it!! seriously though, if you can find a mate or someone with knolage of discos, he will immediatly find any more rust problems you may have. the diff lock is selected while the car is stationary, moving the lever across as shown on the diagram in front of the lever. never had the problem myself but have heard that it can sieze through lack of use, there is a way of freeing it up, though not sure how, am sure 1 of the gurus on here will be able to explain if your not apposed to twirling a spanner or 2!! when you get it working only use the diff lock when needed, running on hard roads etc puts pressure on the rest of the transmission and can lead to premature failure, i know this sounds obvious, but i have heard new land rover owners doing this and when asked to explain why they came out with "but i wanna use it!!" hope this has helped and again welcome to our world,!!! Thankyou Davy and fellow green oval people , the Discovery is supposed to be a 300tdi reistered in 1-6-94 automatic . I have had a quote from a Land Rover privateer garage of £240 +vat is this considered reasonable , the LRman told me the diff lock lever had seized and his men would free it up while doing the floor ( I thought nice man ) I have also been looking at panel suppliers and aren`t there lots . I am at the mercy of others as I cant bend as much as I used to ,so I may have to accept what comes up . One saving grace is that I am told the chassis and surrounding `bits` is in quite good order . Further question I must ask ,at what stage and what with do you service the front drive ( big shiny balls )turning assembly .I think /know that I will enjoy this forum ,thankyou coachman . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biffo Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Once you've "serviced" the swivels, (big shiny balls) you shouldn't really need to bother with them again. Originally they were filled with oil, but this tends to start leaking past the seals quite soon, you're best to drain them (Plug at the bottom of each for draining, another plug 2/3rds way up for filling.) Get 2 tubes of swivel grease from your local Landy agent, or even ebay ( item 230704344661 looks cheapest) squeeze a full tube into each swivel, put the plug in and you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachman Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Once you've "serviced" the swivels, (big shiny balls) you shouldn't really need to bother with them again. Originally they were filled with oil, but this tends to start leaking past the seals quite soon, you're best to drain them (Plug at the bottom of each for draining, another plug 2/3rds way up for filling.) Get 2 tubes of swivel grease from your local Landy agent, or even ebay ( item 230704344661 looks cheapest) squeeze a full tube into each swivel, put the plug in and you're done. Thank you Biffo , I indeed have a good friend nicknamed Biff ,he is very choosy as to who uses this psuedonim ,he is a gentle giant really . Moving on , is there a service schedule on this forum please ,as I would like to bring this vehicle up to service standard a.s.a.p is there a preference for parts supplier ,are Brookwells anygood ?I have been `window`shopping the websites and there are quite a lot of `suppliers`,what are your observations re cost of the new floor ( anybody ) £240+vat inc floor panel . coachman . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 £240 + vat is seriously good value for having that job done! i would pay the man quick sharp before he realises what a pig of a job it is and re-quotes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Take his hand of dam quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 £240 + vat is seriously good value for having that job done! i would pay the man quick sharp before he realises what a pig of a job it is and re-quotes! Take his hand of dam quick agree completely with both of these comments!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 BOOK IT IN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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