Team Idris Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 We've put a new head on our D2 and it seems slow? The problem is, we don't know what it is like normally, as we never owned it running First thing we see is no black smoke. It doesn't seeem to smoke at all, which again could be normal? Our transits knock the socks off it on guts. So are these 5 cylinder Diesels nearly as pokey as the 3.5 RV8, or are they flat and need chippin' to get some grunt out of them? Another comparison is our Grand cherokee, which also has a load more boot, but is a bigger engine? Are we supposed to stir it up all the while? Thanks in advance for an answer to a very vague question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 You get good ones and bad ones. I reckon the very first ones were some of the best (having driven rather a lot of them in my last job!) and the later 2002> models often seem to be quite dull by comparison. If it's low on grunt check the airflow meter and check the fuel pressure for starters. A dud airflow meter sometimes reads low and reduces fuelling and it can be pretty lethargic. Fuel pressure is usually noticable when on a hill and sometimes you will see rough running/misfire as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Based on my own experience with a Disco Td5 (2004), it's ****. No power below 2000Rpm and acceleration is non existent. It's on it's 3rd head. But then i had 2 V8 powered RRs before switching to diseasel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 TD5 autos are remarkably slow, especially when cold. Get the thing remapped and away you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Check that the turbo wastegate actuating-lever is free to move. On my Defender the wastegate stuck in the "wide open" position - leading to an engine of spectacular lethargy. Easily cured - give the actuating-lever a gentle-but-firm twatting with a light hammer, and apply some powdered graphite to the spindle where it goes into the turbo housing. [Don't use oil, WD40 or anything similar as this will carbonise from the heat and make the problem worse!] --Tanuki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 A dud airflow meter is interesting, as you can here the turbo spinning, but it never really get the truck going. We looked about in case the turbo boost pipe was left off on the build, but concluded there wasn't one and the reference was the MAF sensor. Waste gate doesn't move on its own below 3200 rpm just reving it. But again we had to conclude we didn't know what 'normal' operation looked like Fuel if none of that works........... Thanks for help. We'll go tinker it some. Then maybe sort the stiff clutch? Which has that tight mechanical feel to it. Its all good fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Quick and dirty test for a dud AFM is to disconnect it, the ECU defaults to fuelling which doesn't give you full power but not too far off it, if it more or less fixes the problem you then know to change the AFM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 dad had a collapsed cat in the exhaust on his which completely choked it. worth a check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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