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Discovery Rebuild


Walsho

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Hello,

Can anyone help me with the following.

What is this relay for?

post-15682-0-47814100-1354032485_thumb.jpg

Also my central locking is not working.

I have put on new doors on my commercial discovery 95.

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When I try the key fob the lights flash,the central locking ECU ticks,and the solenoids energise.

But there does not seem to be enough power to flip the locks up and down.

When I press the button 12 volts shows on the multimeter for the rear door solenoid plug.

If I put a small 12v battery on it ,it flips up and down with no problems.

Any ideas.?

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Dodgy earth perhaps? Multimeters can fool you as very little current flows when you take a reading so a poor earth doesn't show a problem but when you try to draw current accross the poor earth all the voltage gets dropped there. Try using a light bulb to check for 12v instead.

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I should add that it may also be a poor connection on the positive side, not just a poor earth connection ...... I obviously just had a funny moment when I wrote that.

I'm guessing you have a 300tdi, it will normally start quite happily without the glow plugs working.

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I have just connected it to the negative battery terminal .

I better disconnect it again until I find out where it's supposed to go.

Feckin Haynes manual again!

I am a great fan of the haynes manual for my two Disco's but the problem more lies in that there has been more than one keeper of your vehicle since new and if you knew what I have been up against with the last 20 yrs of bodge it scarper mechanics that have been around my 200Tdi then you would probably appreciate yours a lot more :blush:

I had a problem with my V8 300Tdi series central locking, it was a corroded earth plug, not easy to get to had to pull half the dash out to get to it....

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Yes you are right dieseldog69.the Haynes manual has saved me a lot of cash.

I think you are right about the previous mechanics bodging.

There are wires and relays stuck in a few places which are not in any manual.

What I usually do if I have a problem is go look at my donar vehicle parked in the field to see where the wires go.Its a handy reference point.

I will scrap it when I'm totally finished my rebuild.

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Yes you are right dieseldog69.the Haynes manual has saved me a lot of cash.

I think you are right about the previous mechanics bodging.

There are wires and relays stuck in a few places which are not in any manual.

What I usually do if I have a problem is go look at my donar vehicle parked in the field to see where the wires go.Its a handy reference point.

I will scrap it when I'm totally finished my rebuild.

Good plan, I have a mate who lives in the next county over about 20mins the other side of Aachen from here and he has a 1994 D1 200Tdi, the difference between our two cars is enormous!!! He removed his fusible links but my car never had them to begin with, his interior is complete but mine has had lots of the nice things removed to avoid fixing them, if you want to see wiring issues look at this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79562 I have removed at least 3 kilometers of added wiring of various different types and most of it not suitable for purpose, switches and all manner of rubbish work and dangerous too, spot light wiring and no relays just switch, wire straight to battery and lights!!

And there is a heck of a lot of welding to be done on it too!!!

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Your master actuator within the drivers door controls the slave actuators via the built in micro switch and may require a slight adjustment, so slacken the four mounting plate screws and move a few mil one way or the other while lock/ unlocking with the fob.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have tested for power at all 3 actuators with no problems,

Earth seems to be ok.

ECU had a slight sign of water damage but I cleaned it up and resoldered one joint.

I opened up the main actuator in the drivers door and all seems fine.

I also put new batteries in the fob.

When I press the fob the actuator is trying to close every time even though it is closed,what am I missing?

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Do u mean trying to lock although the door is already locked.

The acuator is out of sync, disconnect the steel linking rod from the actuator and press unlock on the fob once the actuator will now be in an unlock position and reconnect the rod, press the lock if the door is locked and all should be well. Or or you could leave connected and pull the actuating rod by hand therefore manually unlocking the door, but that's a bit brutal.

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