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head bolts into coolant jacket V8


V8david

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Hi all.

V8 3.5 1989, 14 bolt heads.

Can anyone tell me if any of the outer row of bolt holes in the block (11-14) enter the coolant galleries at all?

Reason I ask is that I have fitted Elring composite gaskets and the way they are made meant I couldn't get the outer row of bolts in at all. I have filled with coolant and now getting a slight weep of coolant from between the heads and block on both sides.

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Hey,

I feel your pain - I had a similar thing on my 3.5 - 10 bolt heads on mine but I was being foolish and fitted Britpart head gaskets (sssshhhh, dont tell anyone :blush: ) one leaked at the front- and not just a little bit either, it was pouring out!

I ended up dis-assembling and refitting both (even though the other was ok) with Elring gaskets. Weird yours leaked! Have you reused old head bolts- and if so are you sure they are not the stretch bolt type?

To actually answer your question - no the outer bolts don't enter the waterways...

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Thanks Quagmire, your sympathy is much appreciated! It's good to know I'm not alone!

No, the annoying thing is I have the ARP studs fitted so there are no stretch issues and the heads are torqued down to their specifications (i.e. fookin tight, borderline brown trouser moment when going round for the final torque down, thinking "aluminium block, this feels wrong"!!!).

Also the Elring gaskets looked like real quality so I don't suspect them. Next step is to to pull the heads off again :( , and check for corrosion around the water ports on the block. Although I would have noticed anything major enough to leak to the outside. We shall see though.

I will also have the heads pressure tested to see if there are any cracks etc. in them.

I was so close, only had the HT leads to fit before firing up. I haven't driven it for nearly 2 years. Anyway....

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Hmm, I seem to remember the ARP studs are only 58lb/ft or so, shouldn't be too hard to do up?

If skimmed, have you checked the clearance for the peg and is it properly located? It is possible to put the bolts in and miss the peg hole... Check the taper of the hole as well, i.e. is it wide enough at it's opening for the widest part (bottom) of the peg?

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Thanks for the replies, this is indeed the very same engine with the now fixed oil leaks! I was home and dry (literally) with my bomb proof gaskets. The ARP torque setting specifications are 80lb/ft so the heads are well and truly attached to the engine.

I checked the peg clearance when investigating the oil leaks, which was/is fine. The faces of heads and block were/are so good that I can only assume the heads must be cracked. I hope not but at least I'd know. All will be revealed when I get round to it. The RR remains as a beautiful ornament for now!

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