markwindsurf Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Not that difficult, Have done one for a customer.Remove the center part of the cross member make a skeleton frame and mount the winch in this. Whole thing only protrudes 100mm further than standard and only the center part. At 100 mm that would make for a nice rear step as well. I was kind of hoping that I could stash it out of sight and therefore out of prying hands, am more than happy to remove it every now and then, could even seal a little perspex into the rear floor to ensure it spools straight. I assume in the installation you've done you put in a winch bucket and welded that back into the X member for reinforcement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 re: Just looking at all the rear winch Builds featured here, and yes they are very nice, But with three massive problems.... A: You can not see the winch drum, so bunching becomes an issue. I have a rear view mirror above that shows the drum to watch respooling B: You can not clean winch properly without removing it from the car I spray the winch through the back door with the hose etc C: You have cut a hole in what was reasonably water tight vehicle. HaHAHAHAHAHA watertight 90 ooo how I laugh! I think of it as a place to let the water out rather than in. the tool box on top keeps the hatch down and water out to a degree but driving through a ford at a speed a tad to high with no tool box in did reults in water all over me in the driving seat from the rear hatch so a fixing session is called for. pics are vey simple Jim go and save them to www.imagecave.com then use the link provided to post them here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 A: You can not see the winch drum, so bunching becomes an issue.B: You can not clean winch properly without removing it from the car C: You have cut a hole in what was reasonably water tight vehicle. All that seems a little strange to me, But then i never was normal My advice to anyone fitting a rear winch keep it visable and keep it simple. Jim, you're quite right although I can see my drum because of the gaping hole in my rear floor. Cheaning isn't actually too bad as long as you don't mind getting a little mucky. I normally lie on the ground and then give it a blast with the pressure washer. As with C, its a valid point but we are talking about Land Rovers I'm thinking about sealing off the rear winch to stop the Southdown plate funneling muck up into the tub. I know my setup isn't perfect but everything's a compromise. I think probably the best setup is to have a winch just behind the cubby box (a la Ibex) as its in the centre of the vehicle, is a good distance away from the muck and in a good place to keep an eye on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 also by having the winch drum a little further than std from the fairlead you dont (or at least you minimise) bunching of the cable. just uploading the pics of my setup for comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Les, i questioned this when i was thinking of doing mine, why not just reinforce the rear cross member and bolt it straight onto that? with the rope going through the cross memeber, fairlead on the other side? the X9 can be mounted side on for example (i think!!!) in the end i went for a husky and also strayed away from the underbody mounting in preference to the load bay moutning option. i had a U shaped bracket made up, that was inverted and then welded inbetween the chassis rails at their highest point. this dictated the positioning of the winch in the loadbay: in the process of being welded in: i wanted to retain the ability to fit the rear tailgate so therefore designed a deachable fairlead mounting system. a 5mm backing plat is, well on the back of this: the fairlead can be un pinned and then 'winched' in to hold it secure against the winch body. rear tailgate can then be refitted. the winch can also be removed by undoing the std mouting bolts from underneath so retaining std low bay space. there is sufficient room to mount a 255 tyre between the bulkhead and the winch. the fairlead is far enough away to minimise bunching. although it will still bunch on acute pulls. its easily reached for cleaning and is well protected being higher up than others and out of the carp, although a husky will work pretty much where ever you put it. the wiring is via a connector to aid winch removal. finished product: with time i will get to moving the solenoid box to inside on of the rear lockers and also fit a quick connector to the wires for the internal controls. the balck bracket on the winch is also likely to get a letter box viewing slit cut in it at some point so the driver can see the spooling as well as the codriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Ralph,you're slacking it took 5 mins to get a response......hope your quicker on the radio....! Was to busy doing other things & writing the 1st reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 I do like the approach of Devon 4x4 and a few others of integrating the winch into a new rear crossmember. Very neat solution... With a shallower winch you could even avoid cutting into tub loadspace Cheers Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 i think the d4x4 approach is good and those replacement rear x members are v well made, i dont know what they cost though - remortgage no doubt! i think they also have protective bits that fold around the sides to look after the rear quarters. Blighty had just fitted a new rear x member to my wagon months before i got it so i left it as is, also the reason why i didnt want to cut into it for the rope passage/fairlead. plus the winch can be removed with no sign, bar 4 holes in the load bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 I think it's 450 pounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Nice series install on Difflock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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