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D110: front springs rubbing frame (chassis)


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Hello,

Has anyone experienced this issue?

My current set up is: 3.3cms home made lift (spacers below the front springs). Koni Raid shocks and Britpart (sorry) springs with a 200lbs/inch rate and 40cms tall (+/- 15.7 inches).

The stupid passenger side spring rubs horribly against the frame when I get close to full articulation. The sound it produces is awfull and it even restricts axle articulation.


The springs have a 16mm wire instead of the 15mm wire that came originally with the Defender. The overall configuration of the front axle seems just perfect, it seems I cannot blame anything else but the springs.


The main question in my mind right now is: is the rubbing just related to the poor build quality of material of the Britpart springs or is there any other problem here.


I imagine many of you guyswith winches in the front use an least 16mm thick wire. Has any of you experienced this problem? Any advice on this? Go to better quality springs (like OME?) of just smaller diameter wire?

I kind of recall somebody in this forum mentioned had to do with the poor quality of the Britpart springs.

Your advice is appreciated. I just do not want to spend money in new springs ad then find out that the problem persists.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Santiago

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Sounds like panhard rod to me too, with the spacers under the springs the axle will move further towards the drivers side when the passenger side spring is extended than it would without the spacers. You may need a slightly longer panhard rod to bring the axle back to the centre after the lift.

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Thank you Aragorn and Wilbur Smith! So it may not be about changing springs again but solving the underlying problem instead. Does anybody know if the length-adjustable panhard rods work well and which is the best one available? I seem to recall one or two brands made in the UK? Gwyn Lewis perhaps?

Cheers,

Santiago

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To be honest, flexy suspension almost always makes a noise when doing silly stuff, I wouldn't worry about getting a very expensive panhard, and rivit a thin piece of slippery plastic onto the chassis where it rubs.

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Thanks Bowie69. The thing is that my current front suspensions set up does not flex very well and the spring rubs way too much with the chasis. It is not something minor, and the noise it makes is annoying.

Any views on the convenience or non convenience of fitting an adjustable panhard rod?

I have just measured the lift on my front suspension and it seems it is much more than I thought before. This is due to some recent changes that I had not checked/measured: it is lifted +/-7 cms, almost 3 inches.

Has anybody gone the adjustable panhard way? Does fitting one have any downside? Special things to consider?

Thanks

Stgo

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You definitely need a longer panhard rod, and fitting an adjustable one would be the easiest way to make sure the length is just right, with the axle centred under the chassis when parked on level ground. You're still going to get bump steer with such a lift, though, because of the inclination of the panhard rod and drag link. You would get less lateral movement of the axle on articulation if you could use an extended rod mounting on the chassis and bracket on the axle, ideal 1.5" in each case, to get the rod closer to horizontal, but that could increase bump steer as the drag link moves out of parallel to the rod - they need t be parallel, and should be as close to horizontal as practicable.

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In you position, I'd just remove the spacers. If you look at simple trigonometry, for a set length horizontal span (chassis-axle position) and hypotenuse (panhard), then the smaller the vertical disrance (springs), the smaller the angle between horizontal and hypotenuse, and the less the variation in horizontal distance for changes in the angle (axle articulation).

Once you get the panhard past about 10 degrees off horizontal, it's going to start having a strong effect of pulling the axle across as the weight comes off the left wheel. Hence my suggestion of modifying the panhard brackets, but you would also want to modify the steering to keep the drag link close to horizontal and as parallel as possible to the panhard.

Basically, you've lifted it too high. It's fine on an Icelandic 110 with monster tyres because they don't do much cross-axling on the stone and ice plains, but work the suspension so the panhard rod is moving about, and you'll get these problems. Simply fitting a longer rod will merely hide one symptom, but you'll probably end up with the right side spring doing the same thing when the right wheel is dangling, merely swapping the problem from one side to the other.

The only solution is to bring the panhard road and drag link closer to horizontal. Whether you do that by modifying the brackets and steering box drop arm or just removing your spacers is up to you.

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