Scooby Jim Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Wow - I'm surprised at a V8 having single circuit brakes. My parts catalogue thing-a-ma-bob has listed 2 masters for the V8/2.6 Any dual circuit 109 mc will do. The stock 109 cylinder is a common with an adapter is a common replacement in 101s using the same 6 cyl big brakes. My Landy is single line also, so don't really want to replumb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Got this little lot left over.24 spline outers, 10 spline inners, and swivel housings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Well bit more progress, I know that the drivers shaft is ok. I did trial fit the 11 inch backing plate and 88 stub axle and its straight on, no worries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Well bit more progress, I know that the drivers shaft is ok. I did trial fit the 11 inch backing plate and 88 stub axle and its straight on, no worries I did it years ago on my 88" series 2 and there were no fit problems at all, i changed the original 10" brakes for 11" x 2.5" and later changed them again to 11" x 3". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Removed the other side, now I can say 100% that there is another diff gone lol. The rear was blown, and the front is too, as I can feel bits of planetary gears inside .Lucky I bought 2 Disco diffs , and I now have a spare set of front 10 spline shafts, and a set of front 10x24 spline shafts too. Blood puss and everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 I did it years ago on my 88" series 2 and there were no fit problems at all, i changed the original 10" brakes for 11" x 2.5" and later changed them again to 11" x 3". How did you find the brakes?? Have been a told a few horror stories, but all by people who havent done it they just think it will be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 They worked just fine without the fade that 10" brakes have when working hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 They worked just fine without the fade that 10" brakes have when working hard. Cheers buddy no horror stories then?? I'll be collecting all the new cylinders next week, so master cylinder (brake and clutch), shoes, brake cylinders, my springs look ok, and adjusters work, new rear drums (fronts I can't get from my local Bearmach), and take it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Right Slight update, have decided NOT to fit single line brakes, and have bought and fitted a dual system, all I have to do now is replace the piping to the split (front/rear), then possibly larger diameter line to the front cylinder. I have all the parts now bar adjusters (mine move) to rebuild them and have started on the rears. I should be picking up a sand blasting cabinet in the next few days, so once I have that I can clean up the backing plates, paint them, and start assembling.I had to temp fit the fronts, as I needed to have front wheels on, so stub axles and half shafts are fitted ( have to remove stubs to fit seals, and then refurb front brakes).The Fronts I'm going to plumb backwards in that the bleed nipple is at the top, apart from that its like the later ones. Oh have also replaced the clutch master cylinder, and have a new slave to be fitted. And got some new brake pipes, and some unions, pipe bender, and flare tool. Bearmach loved me that day!! Anyhoo here are the pics. And the rear brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Blimey, that's colourful! Not building a replica of Noddy's car, are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Blimey, that's colourful! Not building a replica of Noddy's car, are you? Your the second person to have said that tome today, but about different cars Must be a theme from my youth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Just a question, I am upgrading from Single line, to Twin line, using the master cylinder below. Now are the threaded fittings, the same size or different??Also are the pipes from the rear cylinder, and the front cylinder different sizes??And the main one, which is front/rear?? Green/Red?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Green is for the front, red for the rear. They are different sizes, presumably to prevent them being connected to the wrong axle. Are you fitting the PDWA valve and warning light? The idea is that a leak in one system produces a Pressure Differential, which slides a shuttle inside the valve block, pressing on a plunger switch similar to the brake light switch giving the Warning Activation. PWDA, you see? I'd recommend against it, to be honest - they're unreliable and cause a lot of extra aggravation when bleeding the system. I'd suggest using the level sensing cap from a Discovery or Defender, which is much more reliable and will pick up a very small leak that doesn't produce enough differential pressure to activate the PWDA system but does drop the level progressively. It's also easier to fit and doesn't need the self test relay. Just get the wiring tail from the donor's loom so that you have the plug to connect to the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Pipes are all the same size. Standard 3/16" brake pipe. Fittings different sizes as above. I think it's either M10 for one and M12 for the other or 3/8" UNF and 1/2" UNF if you have the imperial version. I did the exact same upgrade on my 88" when I rebuilt it - upgraded to servo-assist dual-line system with twin-leading shoes on the front. As was standard fit for 88" models from 1980 onwards. I also swapped the pipes around on the front backplates to put the bleed point at the top and make bleeding easier. Worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Pipes are all the same size. Standard 3/16" brake pipe. Fittings different sizes as above. I think it's either M10 for one and M12 for the other or 3/8" UNF and 1/2" UNF if you have the imperial version. I did the exact same upgrade on my 88" when I rebuilt it - upgraded to servo-assist dual-line system with twin-leading shoes on the front. As was standard fit for 88" models from 1980 onwards. I also swapped the pipes around on the front backplates to put the bleed point at the top and make bleeding easier. Worked a treat. This is exactly what I'm planning tbh, I'll have 11inch brakes all around with the 3inch wide D.L.Es up front, with 2 inch wide S.L.E on the rear. As for the brake warning valve 100% NOT fitting it, as the reservoir I have has 2 compartments, so if one leaks it shouldn't lose all the fluid. But I'll always check before going out in it, along with oil, and water. Now to find out what thread size the master cylinder is :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Pipes are all the same size. Standard 3/16" brake pipe. Fittings different sizes as above. I think it's either M10 for one and M12 for the other or 3/8" UNF and 1/2" UNF if you have the imperial version. I did the exact same upgrade on my 88" when I rebuilt it - upgraded to servo-assist dual-line system with twin-leading shoes on the front. As was standard fit for 88" models from 1980 onwards. I also swapped the pipes around on the front backplates to put the bleed point at the top and make bleeding easier. Worked a treat. This is exactly what I'm planning tbh, I'll have 11inch brakes all around with the 3inch wide D.L.Es up front, with 2 inch wide S.L.E on the rear. As for the brake warning valve 100% NOT fitting it, as the reservoir I have has 2 compartments, so if one leaks it shouldn't lose all the fluid. But I'll always check before going out in it, along with oil, and water. Now to find out what thread size the master cylinder is :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 This is exactly what I'm planning tbh, I'll have 11inch brakes all around with the 3inch wide D.L.Es up front, with 2 inch wide S.L.E on the rear. As for the brake warning valve 100% NOT fitting it, as the reservoir I have has 2 compartments, so if one leaks it shouldn't lose all the fluid. But I'll always check before going out in it, along with oil, and water. Now to find out what thread size the master cylinder is :-) Like I said, the cap from a scrapped Discovery fits the SIII reservoir, so any leak will bring up a warning light before you lose the brakes. I doubt the scrappy would even charge you for the parts. It's a very worthwhile and simple yob - just run a feed from the green wired (fused) terminals in the fuse box to a dash light, with the bulb earth running out through to the reservoir cap, the other cap wire running to earth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Like I said, the cap from a scrapped Discovery fits the SIII reservoir, so any leak will bring up a warning light before you lose the brakes. I doubt the scrappy would even charge you for the parts. It's a very worthwhile and simple yob - just run a feed from the green wired (fused) terminals in the fuse box to a dash light, with the bulb earth running out through to the reservoir cap, the other cap wire running to earth. Worth doing then!! WIll have a look out for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I saw a cap and Defender reservoir going on the For Sale forum, but it doesn't have the wiring tail and plug from the loom to connect to it. You may be able knock something up with some female blade terminals, though, as you don't have to disconnect the plug to remove the cap. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87792 The cap will fit, and you can just bin the reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Can anyone confirm that the larger fitting on the master cylinder is 7/16ths?? As I have tried a M10 and 3/8, both slide in, the 1/2 I have will not fit not even close My blasting cabinet hasn't arrived, as my mate was getting it off a contractor in his works and they taking ages. But I have ordered new bleed nipples and a full set of all unions I will need. This is my headache, Master Cylinder is UNF 3/8 and 7/16, the new twin pipes will be metric M10, onto Metric brake hoses, then onto a Metric converter to UNF 3/8 onto the cylinders.The UNF and Metric combination is going to get annoying lol. But I'll have to make a laminated page with the diagram on, with the sizes and explanations. As in the future it could become a p-i-t-a. But I have fitted my retractable air hose ready so I can use my air impact guns on the stubborn leaf spring bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Nice! I don't have any air tools, but could do with some. I have 120V Bosch electric impact wrench which does pretty well, though. It got the seized fixings off my RR's prop shafts and engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 I have these. CP734 - 1/2" Torque rating 576Nm (425ft.lbs) CP772 - 3/4" Torque rating 1356Nm (1000.lbs) An air chisel/hammer, and an air drill. My spray stuff and die grinders live in a different drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You're making me jealous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 to be quite honest snagger, i have air tools and while theyre good, the noise of the compresser kicking in does my nut in, plus half the time it trips the socket circuit haha. i probably need to give it a good service to make sure its working as it should as maybe it has started to get stiff haha. id love an electric impact gun! P.S. nice reel. i have a retractable air hose best air tool i ever bought haha so much easier to keep out the way and you dont trip over it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Well I started to get the sand blasting done, BUT I had to stop as the compressor stopped working So started to strip it down as I thought the motor had seized, but having ruled that out, the conrod on the piston has seized, so had to be snapped to be removed So I'm either looking for a new conrod for the Atlas Copco TE22E, or a new bloody compressor.Anyways here's a couple of pics of the damage Apologies for the amount of colours on my Landy, she will end up the Yellow of the bonnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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