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Advance / Retard a 300Tdi without removing timing case.


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Can you slightly advance or retard a 300Tdi though the timing case breather cover without removing the entire timing cover? What i mean is just undoing the three bolts on the pump pulley and turning the crank slightly and then locking again. I used a 9.5mm drill when i set the timing and there's much more black smoke when setting off than before. This means to me that the timing is slightly out. (fore or back I do not know)

So

1) can you do this with the three bolts?

2) does black smoke mean i turn the crank anti-clock or clock ?

I think a 9mm drill was used last time so I will use that again and see what happens,,, if this is the way forward ?

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Yes that's what the inspection plate is for, to check/adjust pump timing sprocket. You will need to put a pin in the crankshaft/flywheel bell housing as well, but can use a spare wading plug with a drill pushed through a tight fitting drilled hole.

As for clock or anti clock the timing pins will dictate the correct timing/position.

When you adjusted it before did you change the timing belt?, did you wind it round 2 complete revolutions then re-check the timing?

Mine had moved slightly as belt settled in. HTH

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thanks. yes i always tension the belts twice turning it twice each time to make sure. The smoke was immediate so i might leave it 1000km to see how i go. I can do this in a supermarket car park anywhere...

anybody else have any thoughts on fore or back ?

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thanks. yes i always tension the belts twice turning it twice each time to make sure. The smoke was immediate so i might leave it 1000km to see how i go. I can do this in a supermarket car park anywhere...

anybody else have any thoughts on fore or back ?

Suck it and see

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Is it just a puff of black smoke on start up? or all the time ?

If all the time I'd say slightly too advanced . Does the engine sound the same? usually with too

much advance it will sound more crisp, or more diesel knock.

What altitude are you at?

And I assume all the air pipe work is clear incl. the filter

cheers

Steveb

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its when pulling off. Wasn't there before so its likely timing which I've just done. I've done a 300tdi four times now so i know what I'm doing without the book but this time I used a 9.5mm drill and before always 9mm. This is likely whats different. I gather 9.5 is the correct one....but obviously not for me. Some have said they use 8.5mm on the other forums after Googling for answers.

Engine sound same. we are only at 2000 and we've been to 4600 before. This is new smoke. Everything is clear. Start up is the normal puff.

If faffing around under the inspection plate doesn't change the tension then i will give it a go with a 9mm. I want to drive a bit first. It might settle down.

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black smoke is unburnt fuel, have you tried increasing the air? i.e try a new air filter. You could briefly remove the filter for one run up/down road.

I didn't realise you were en route overland, if you have done a few thousand miles across dusty roads it may be clogged?. Worth a look before the timing pins etc.

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If you use a drill / pin that's too small, depending on which way you turn the pump, it will leave it a little advanced / retarded. If you turn the pump clockwise looking at the front of the vehicle (I'm pretty sure) this will leave the injection advanced.

A retarded engine will produce less black smoke - so it may be that you've been driving it retarded and in fact it's correct now.

Diesels are supposed to produce black smoke on acceleration. The injector pump increases the fuel delivery to make the engine run faster - so it is running rich and producing black smoke until the engine reaches the speed appropriate for the fuel delivery.

To set it retarded, just use a range of sizes of drill bits. Each mm too small will give you about 1.5 degrees retard / advance depending on which way you turn the pump when setting.

Si

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