Dan110 Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Hi there, Just after any pointers anyone might have - i'm a novice at all this. The other day, after a sedate 15 mile journey, my hub cap popped off my drivers side front axle on my 1986 110, with what looked like a cap full of oil under pressure (from the pattern of the splash). My (uneducated) guess was the my breathers aren't breathing and the oil has found its way out from the diff. I can sort the breather, but does anyone have any pointers on what seal might have gone (i've never had an an axle apart) and if it's likely to be a home fix by a slightly competent DIY'er with basic tools or a garage job. The leak has continued dripping since. I've not had a chance to check the oil level in the diff yet but that'll be my next job. Thanks in advance Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 It may not be a seal. If the axle is getting warm which it would on a journey, the air inside will expand. With the breather blocked it has nowhere to go and the pressure builds until something gives way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 There is a small oil seal on the inner side of the stub axle, some people remove this to allow oil to migrate down the drive shaft, others keep it in. Definitely sounds like you breather is blocked, but before you go changing seals, I'd just clean up the drive flange itself and buy a new plastic cap, they do perish and crack over time and don't seat properly. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Righto, i'll give that a go. Thanks for the quick responses. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Right, breather replaced. Oil topped up (needed about half a litre), now just to wait and see if any more escapes....! Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Quick tip for testing a breather (if you can get to the end of it) blow down it, then take it out your mouth quick as if its working as it should - some oily smelling air will get pushed back out the end. I've been tackling a repeatedly blocked transfer box breather this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Mav - slight thread hijack - where does the transfer box breather exit and go to (typically)? Is there a long length of pipe or is it simply a wee valve thingy somewhere hidden? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 at the top, under the middle of the seat box is where it starts from. Not sure where they normally end up! Engine bay I'd imagine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Great thanks. Not one I'd seen, and I've got a slight weep just started from the transfer box so that might be a cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I've got extended breathers on all my trucks, but from memory they all pop up behind the engine somewhere as standard... the breather connects onto the top of the "hi/low" lever housing on top of the transfer box, you can get to it from underneath, its more of a feel thing than see... See the red plug on the photos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Both the transfer box and main gearbox breathers were clipped at the back of the cylinder head on mine, along with the front axle breather. Rear axle breather terminated in the rear wheelarch, but I have since extended it to the same location as the others which is more than high enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan110 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Sorry, another quick question. Thanks for bearing with me! The leak has continued with the new breathers - albeit slightly slower. I've never had a hub/axle apart, so i'm not entirely sure where oil can migrate from/to; after a look at the parts manual and the haynes, it seems there are seals on the axle shaft, in the hub and in the swivel pin housing. What's the best way to proceed? Inspect and replace all the seals as I come across them, or can I just remove the hub assembly as a whole and replace the seal on the half shaft first? Also, the haynes mentions a dial test indicator at a couple of points to test the end float - is this a vital tool or can it be bodged? Thanks again Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 If water gets into the oil, it will all froth up and when it gets warm it expands cause the oil level in the axle to go up which can sometimes then leak out. make sure the oil level is correct by either changing the oil (especially if it looks bad) or just pop the filler plug out on level ground and see if any oil comes out... Like I said in my previous post, before you take the axle apart I would clean up the wee groove on the drive flange with a wire brush, and buy a new rubbery plastic end cap - this should seal in the oil. Taking the axle side apart to replace that seal I would not advise as it is a messy and a good 8hr job to get to it in the first place for not a lot of gains. Another thing you can check also is what kind of lubrication you have in the swivel housing (CV lubrication), if its EP90 oil then this can also expand if its got water mixed in with the oil, check the swivel housing for a filler/drain port and crack the filler open first and see what happens. I'd consider maybe draining what is in there too (do you know if it is EP90 oil or one shot grease?) if its oil its relatively easy to drain out and then refresh, if its one shot grease its best to take it for a drive before you open it up as this will warm the grease up and allow it to come out easier. then replace what is needed. Whatever you do, you need to have healthy end caps sealing to the drive flange as these do stop oil from leaking out the gap between the splines of the drive shaft and the drive flange. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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