mikey7134 Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Hi, I've a 200 tdi in a Series 3, and since ive had the engine, the washer behind the crank pulley bolt has had play in it, and rattles. I've done getting on for 800 miles in it since buying it, and the bolt hasnt come loose, and the pulley has been solid the whole time. Does anyone know why its loose? - Would it be the torsional damper is buggered, and has allowed play, or would it have just come loose at some point? Basically, should i just tighten it up and leave it, or is there a way to know whether the damper is knackered? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Bolt stretched? Someone didn't properly clean out the thread-locking compound from the threaded hole in the end of the crank the last time the cambelt was changed? Bolt crossthreaded? It's really rather important to have this bolt torqued up properly: without it the crank-pulley [and the cambelt-sprocket behind it] and the cambelt-sprocket behind it] can move on the nose of the crankshaft, eventually upbuggering the keyway-slot in the crank itself - then you need a new crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey7134 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Not having cleaned it out sounds about right - the belt has been changed in it. Right, i'll get it sorted asap then - thanks for advice Am i right in thinking its a reverse thread? And as a long shot, i dont suppose vibration will be reduced by having the damper & pulley firmed down to a proper torque? - be something to look forward to haha Cheers, Mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 90% sure its a standard thread on a TDi, i know it comes undone if you prop a breaker bar up against the chassis rail and turn it over (stop solenoid feed disconnected) for a split second. just dont put the bar against the wrong chassis rail. else it could get messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 It's a right hand thread. Put the breaker bar against the top of the left chassis rail or bottom of the right rail and give the starter a momentary flick to break the bolt free before undoing it by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey7134 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 would it do it off a 1/2" drive socket? (as im at uni at the minute, and dont have the 3/4" drive to hand, with the hefty breaker bar.) also, before i take it off, whats the best way of getting it on and torqued? or would it really matter? as i say, the crank pulley is solid, the torsional damper is solid - could i leave as is, and just stick some silicon to the washer to stop the rattle? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 yeah 1/2" preferably 6 sided usually cracks it off as long as its not draper value or some **** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey7134 Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 ideal ta. what'd be the best way to tighten it up? starter off and stick prybar in to hold it still, or put it in gear and torque it up? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 loctite and 5th gear all brakes on using a breaker bar just dog it up to F.T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey7134 Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 5th gear?!?!?!?! whats one of them? lol but got her done there was a load of old threadlock in the threads. cleaned it out as best i could and bolt still wouldnt tighten up enough to clamp the washer,, so shortened the bolt a smidge. Done it up to 200NM on the torque wrench, and then some more with a breaker bar. seems nicely tightened down now. surprisingly, the handbrake managed to hold it against the scaffold bar i had to undo it aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 WHAT.... was i thinking?????? i meant 4th. i should know better haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 crank pulley bolt should be ERR605 photo of bolt next to rule so you can check yours http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/85142/0/bolt_crank_pulley_na_td_tdi_diesel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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