Series 1 86"... Viable?

[Josh NZ]

Hey all,

Whilst I was on my morning errand picking up some new purchases for my landy, I got chatting to the seller who (as it turned out) was an avid LR nut and owner of 3 series 1's.

He told me he had an 1955 86" which he was considering selling when he has a clean up next year. Ive always had a bit of a soft spot for series 1's and I said I would be interested in having a look.

The info I know without seeing it in the flesh:

- Rust in bulkhead, has been stripped down, removed and waiting for new metal welding in.

- No motor, had a non LR motor in it when he bought it so he pulled it out

- Standard diffs, gearbox etc all in good nick

- Solid chassis (That one surprised me!). Outrigger, dumb irons replaced professionally.

He doesn't know what its worth, but I don't to rip him or myself off as it will obviously be a project. He told me that he bought

a set of "Pork pie" lights for it. I don't really know what these are..? Obviously it will need a motor. Which 2.0L would this have had originally? Any well known issues with 86"? Parts availability? and lastly, what should I offer?

Im going to see it at some stage before Christmas so I get some pics. He also told me that hes had parts of the truck sand blasted and painted but not sure where as I didn't ask. I'm thinking of joining the series 1 club as well.

Hope someone can help!

Josh

[discomikey]

Ignition and headlight switch -180-200£

indicator stalk similar money. A lot of the little bits such as bulb holders in the dash are all but sourceable, I'm sure there was something else super expensive too. Apart from that i think most parts are available as reproduction parts.

the pork pie lights are the rare and expensive tail light assemblies which were originally fitted. Its a plus to have them with the vehicle for sure.

hope this helps

[Josh NZ]

Thanks for that mikey! He did seem pretty pleased when he was talking about the lights. As far as I know, the truck is complete minus the motor, so fingers/toes/eyes crossed all the electrics are there

[discomikey]

p.s. just realised you are in new zealand.

those are UK prices, and i gather that NZ parts are more expensive by quite a way. it would be definately worth looking up the costs of such things and also things that you know you would replace to help you decide,

[bill van snorkle]

p.s. just realised you are in new zealand.

those are UK prices, and i gather that NZ parts are more expensive by quite a way. it would be definately worth looking up the costs of such things and also things that you know you would replace to help you decide,

Off topic sorry Jjim. I'm from Australia Mikey, so please excuse my ignorance of the UK. I followed your Grey Fergy link. Is it really 2000miles from Lands End to John O'Groats ? I'd always thought it was somewhere close to 500 ! Congratulations on the successfully completing the challenge and the money raised BTW.

[Anderzander]

Josh,

I'm no expert on the 86's, I have an 80" model, I do know though that the owners club is excellent. They have a very active forum over on LRSOC and a lot of knowledgeable members. Seemingly a few from NZ too.

If you want yours to be a perfect and accurate restoration then they become expensive - but if you are happy to have a bit of character and run them to enjoy them, then I think its eminently viable !

Stephen

[Josh NZ]

Hi Stephen.

Cheers for the advice, I'm not really looking to create a concourse resto machine. Just one I could fix up during the winter and drive to work in the summer. I also found out that its registration status is what we in NZ call, dead. Basically, it's been so long since it was last paid up on registration that its been removed from the system and has no number plates.

Basically it needs to rebuilt to standard specification to be able to pass a check similar to what I would have gone through when it first arrived in NZ. The check from memory is around $800 NZD. So that adds a bit of a challenge to the mix.

I like a good challenge

[discomikey]

Off topic sorry Jjim. I'm from Australia Mikey, so please excuse my ignorance of the UK. I followed your Grey Fergy link. Is it really 2000miles from Lands End to John O'Groats ? I'd always thought it was somewhere close to 500 ! Congratulations on the successfully completing the challenge and the money raised BTW.

Youre correct Bill, its roughly 478 Miles as the crow flies.

We travelled Dover Castle-Lands End-John O Groats

again only roughly 1000 miles as the crow flies point to point but being on a 10mph tractor we wound our way through the countrysides on mainly back roads and B roads.

Thanks for the congratulations it was one of the best experiences of my life, Have you seen the rebuild and journey Video logs on youtube?

[bill van snorkle]

I do have a soft spot for Grey Fergy's Mike as they were instrumental in helping soldier settlers establish their farms over here after WW2. Unfortunately until I can get a better Wireless Internet plan of more than 3 gig per month, I am unable to view Youtube.

[discomikey]

Thats a shame.

i love the little old fergie's, so so simple to work on. we had about 3 weekends where we rebuilt the engine steering and hubs, neglected the gearbox (chipped first gear) and brakes, and painted it.

it ate up the miles after 25 years of being stood in a hedge. so simple, so versatile and so strong.

never even had a test drive before we bit the bullet and took it down to the coast!

[w896andy]

If you are not looking for a concourse vehicle consider a 21/4 petrol engine from a series 2/3, a lot easier to get than the 2l petrol and cheaper for bits. It easily fits with a change round of engine mounts and is common in the UK as a conversion. Really nice ordinal series 1's are rising fast in the UK and now fetch £6-9k on a regular basis but its expensive to get them to that point. If its a drive-able vehicle you want series 2/3 stuff fitts in many cases. Andy

[bill van snorkle]

Actually if you could find a rusty/battered, but mechanically sound series 2/3, then it is advisable to swap all the running gear into the series 1 including the steering box and pedal assemblies.

Stuff like fr/rr halfshafts, steering worms and nuts, camshafts/cam followers, exhaust valves, water pumps, carburettors, engine rebores etc etc for a series one can send a rich man broke, and the later stuff is generally better and more easily and cheaply sourced anyway.

[rusty_wingnut]

I would suggest the original equipment is by far the best suited to the vehicle, I've been full circle with mine and now would not swap away from my 2ltr. I've had; 2.5TD, 200tdi and the 2.25 petrol. the 2ltr is the best motor in a series 1, and a good one will perform well enough.

If you want a 2a/3 then buy one but if you want a Series 1 then keep it as original as possible and you won't be dissapointed - not least if you come to sell it! It is wise to join the Series 1 club and forum where you will get a lot of real world experience in restoring Series 1s and you may well be surprised to find the parts are not as expensive as you think.

[bill van snorkle]

Whilst a good series one engine may perform well enough. Finding or building a good one these days is not that easy or cheap. And just like the later 6 cylinder F head engines, a good one doesn't stay good for very long compared to a 2.25 petrol engine, camshafts/followers and exhaust valves being the main culprits on the 2 litre lumps.

[Anderzander]

I'm taking a 2.25 out of mine and going the 200tdi route - only because I can't afford to use it as I want without the better mpg.

[rusty_wingnut]

Whilst a good series one engine may perform well enough. Finding or building a good one these days is not that easy or cheap. And just like the later 6 cylinder F head engines, a good one doesn't stay good for very long compared to a 2.25 petrol engine, camshafts/followers and exhaust valves being the main culprits on the 2 litre lumps

I've not heard of exhaust valves failing. The valve gear can be a weak point, but the rockers are available and so are camshafts. None of which is expensive or difficult to replace. I've not had problems with things wearing out despite a lot of high rpm work. I think a lot of folk fall down because they don't check oil ways and assume the engine will be fine. oiling is critical on any engine but the oil ways on a 2ltr can gum up and it worth checking it is all clear - especially on an engine you've not run for a while.

I stick by my engine build, I've had not a single problem and I am happy with how it pulls. It will pull my old 109 from a standstill in 3rd gear on 7.50 tyres. the 200 was incredible but shook the car to death and I already had a tdi defender which is a far better application for a tdi motor. the 2.25 was rubbish and would never run well and was awfully heavy. For me I didn't want to drive around in a parts bin special, I wanted the motor as it was intended, albeit with a little more performance in line with period techniques.

[Team Idris]

_{You want a unit like the 1117 or 1118**** engine. There was a 1600cc, which was re-worked to 2 litre. But this had the name 'Siamese', as it put 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 very close together, making for a weak head gasket arrangement. To combat this the 3rd incarnation of the F head is spaced to a reasonable amount.}

_{Only very early 80's have the 1600, identifiable by a remote filter on the left hand side. The Siamese has the same remote filter I think? So you want the later unit, with paper filter can, on the right hand side of the engine.}

_{Some of the choice between 2 litre and 2.25 might be the gearbox bell housing, which has bolt holes placed differently. If it's syncro on first and second (S3 box) then 2.25 saves going back to an S1 crash box, or finding an S3 6 potter bell housing (crossover part to tie S3 box to F head engine).}

[megatoad]

That 86/8's had the later spreadbore block for the 2l engine, identified by the oil filter being on the R/H side of the engine below the inlet manifold, instead of the awkward one on the siamese block wich was on the L/H which made getting the starter off a pig.

As for what you do to it, well that depends on whether you wish to spend a fortune and restore it or just get it running whatever way you can and enjoy it.

Personally I have S2 axles and steering box on mine as they are better and more easy to aquire/fix. The S1's had semi floating halfshafts on the rear that could be pigs to replace.

I have also recently fitted parabolics that dramatically improve the ride, especially off road.

Definately look at the Land Rover Series One Club http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/ as we have many antipedean members who will give you plenty of advice on what are the options/alternatives for keepig the S1's running down under.

Hope you take the plunge.