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Mikes new thread :)


mikec

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Auto-tune is not really any good at tuning for idle, as it usually ends up lean, but the fact it's richened your idle spot up a fair bit might be an indication that your map was somehow too lean. RV8's like to idle rich, narrowband lambda will be indicating well rich on my 4.6 at idle.

Going lean does make the idle come up, that's why it's helpful to have a slight lean slope towards the bottom corner of the map as it stabilises the idle - if the idle drops, it goes a bit lean, which makes the idle come back up. Too much slope and it will hunt round in circles.

Are you using a standard fuel pressure regulator & is it connected up correctly, including the vacuum line?

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I was just thinking as all this is being tried stationary having the smaller fan might help it warm up a bit.

Fridge is correct; the fan has no part in it running cool. The fan is there to cool a hot engine, not chill a cool one - forget the fan and check your thermostat and plumbing,

Cheers Charlie

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Looks like you are slowly getting there now Mike. Tuning MS for your engine and to your liking is never going to be a quick process ……………. for instance, when you get going on the cold start settings you only realistically get one shot at it a day.

The fact that the idle came up considerably when you increased the idle fuelling points to the fact that it was indeed running lean. If the idle is too high when you are happy that it is fairly stable and sounds rhythmical then either close the plenum air bleed screw a little, or reduce the idle timing to bring the idle down to your liking, but remember with your cam I wouldn’t let it idle much below 800 rpm

With regard to the flat spot ………………… this is most likely to be tied up with the acceleration enrichments. In MS you can set how much extra fuel you want depending on how fast you punch the go pedal. It takes a little time to get it right.

I guess next on your list will be getting the cold start enrichment settings correct so that it starts on the button regardless of ambient temperature.

Yes …….. change the stat for something hotter ………… either an 82 or 88. Running an engine cool and not letting the oil get up to working temp (80C) will cause engine wear in the long term.

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Ok put Niges new map in today.

Idle was very low again, hunted badly again. So I adjusted the idle screw to get it up again, a pic below to show just how far out it was, I daren't unscrew it any more than that :)

Flatspot was unchanged compared to before.

Couple of dalatlogs to follow, cheers mike.

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Ok put Niges new map in today.

Idle was very low again, hunted badly again. So I adjusted the idle screw to get it up again, a pic below to show just how far out it was, I daren't unscrew it any more than that :)

Flatspot was unchanged compared to before.

Couple of dalatlogs to follow, cheers mike.

You have just taken a step backwards !

All the idle screw does is let in more air ................ it has already been shown that you need more fuel to richen up the idle fuelling.

Go into the VE table and increase the fuel in the idle cell and surrounding cells as per my previous post.

Once you have a good stable idle it will probably be too fast, so screw in the air bleed screw about halfway in (or so) ..... if it is still troo fast then reduce the timing at idle from 10BTDC to 8BTDC (or lower).

To get rid of the flat spot you first need to fine tune the engine with a few data logging runs and then set up the accelation enrichments which will take a while to get right.

The map that Nige supplies is ONLY A STARTING point to get the engine running, however, most engines will be slightly different and have different parameter requirements to get them running properly.

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You have just taken a step backwards !

All the idle screw does is let in more air ................ it has already been shown that you need more fuel to richen up the idle fuelling.

Go into the VE table and increase the fuel in the idle cell and surrounding cells as per my previous post.

Once you have a good stable idle it will probably be too fast, so screw in the air bleed screw about halfway in (or so) ..... if it is still troo fast then reduce the timing at idle from 10BTDC to 8BTDC (or lower).

To get rid of the flat spot you first need to fine tune the engine with a few data logging runs and then set up the accelation enrichments which will take a while to get right.

The map that Nige supplies is ONLY A STARTING point to get the engine running, however, most engines will be slightly different and have different parameter requirements to get them running properly.

Nige sent me a third map this week which I presume had something changed in it to try something else, presumably Nige had an idea.

Sure he'll be along at some point to fill us in :)

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