scoaf Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hi everyone. Once again I require some expert advice. I have a 1986 ex mod 90. I'm in the process of 'doing it up' but have issues with my bonnet. I have remounted spare wheel to inside bulkhead and I am left with the fitting on the bonnet. I want chequer plating across the whole bonnet. Would it be easier to buy a new bonnet or cut them off? Also, how difficult is it for an idiot (me) to fit and wire up some roof lights? Is that a professional job? Thanks for any suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benne Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Doesnt the bonnet mount just unbolt from beneath? I know mine does as I have just removed it. Mine is a 1992 year, others may be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoaf Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 I am pretty sure the fittings are moulded into the bonnet unfortunately. They are rather unsightly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Are you sure the impression you are getting of the moulding is not just the result of it being covered by umpteen layers of thick army paint? For a clearer idea ake a look at the underside of the bonnet but you will obviously need to remove any fittings that sit above the line of the chequerplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 the rubber buffers x 4 are bolted from underside, all the rest should be removable too see page 58 & 59 in http://defender110.nightmail.ru/Military%20110%20Supp%20Parts%20Cat.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoaf Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Thanks very much. I will get onto that. Any ideas about the lighting rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 All the bonnet furniture unbolts from below. Extra lights are easy to wire up. Remember that the switch must have a warning light (either internal or external is fine) to warn you that the lights are on. You can fit lights to the bumper, an A-bar/bull-bar or a roof rack/bar. Front mounted lights can be used on road with high beam and work well. Roof mounted lights cannot be used on road at all and cause a lot of glare from the bonnet, so are only useful for off roading to illuminate low overhangs and see over obstacles that block the head lights. If fitting roof lights, you need a suitable heavy duty switch (10A or more per pair of 60W lights) or a switch and relay. I used a Carling Technologies Condura switch rated at 20A for my roof lights, which is pretty much on its limit at 12V and comfortably within at the alternator's 14V. If fitting front mounted spots, they can be controlled independently, by the dip switch or both. I have twin bull-bar spots controlled by the main beam circuit, but they are fed by a relay as running them off the headlight feeds would overload the existing wiring. As they are front mounted and only come on with high beam, they do not need a separate warning light (the blue high beam warning light is sufficient). Some would fit an override switch to disconnect these lights so that the headlights come on only when the additional lights aren't needed, and a three way switch could be used so that you could have the spots on regardless of the headlights (subject to having a warning light), but I can't see the point in any of that complication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoaf Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 That is a very comprehensive, useful and much appreciated answer. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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