keycare Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Having read all the posts that I can find on Clutch Slave Cyl replacement and watched the two youtube videos on reverse bleeding, I decided to have a go at replacing the slave cylinder myself. My Symptoms before the replacement were that the truck would get stuck in gear if I rested on the clutch for too long. This mostly happened in reverse but sometimes happened in 1st. It didn't happen every time. I figured that the slave was leaking as there was no evidence of any leakage on the master cyl. So, new OEM slave cyl, 50mm syringe and pipe for reverse bleeding and off I go. It all seemed to go well, push rod stayed in place etc until I tried the clutch. It was very light and the bit point seemed to be near the floor which meant I couldn't get the truck into gear. I tried bleeding the clutch with no success. So I though that I must have dislodged the push rod. Currently, the slave has been removed again, the push rod is still connected to the clutch fork and is secured with the plastic clip. So I am unsure as to where I went wrong. I can easily pull and push the rod in and out of the bell housing which I hope is correct and I am about to refit the slave. Should I hold the push rod so that it pulled out as far as it can go and then push the slave cylinder onto it, or push the rod all the way in and then fit the slave cyl? A bit confused. Cheers, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Not sure what vehicle you have, but with an r380 there are two types of slave cylinder that have to be matched to the push rod length. If you got the one for the shorter push rod it may not be pushing far enough. Was the replacement identical to the original? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Have you the slave the right way up with the bleed nipple at the top ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Your original problem sounds more like a master cylinder problem, an internal leak which will gradually let the clutch in. You may now have the wrong slave cylinder...............one with a bigger bore will give less pedal effort, but will move the pushrod less, thus not disengage the clutch properly. What vehicle do you have ? There are other things it could be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 If you have the slave cylinder off, it may be worth bleeding it with the piston clamped right back into the cylinder, thus minimising the air space, as otherwise, the piston will move out to contact the push rod - this is how the clutch "self adjusts". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keycare Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I have a 2000 TD5 - sorry for not giving enough info. I refitted the slave cylinder - probably being more careful that the rod was fully inserted into the rubber boot of the slave. I then reverse bled it and found that the clutch felt far better, started up and it looks like things are ok. Although I haven't had the time to test drive it fully yet. I examined the master cylinder and couldn't see any obvious signs but will bear it in mind if the symptoms return. Thanks all. Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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