Ian Barrett Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Evening all. With Donnington 4x4 show looming I'm making my shopping list. One thing I THINK I need are new door seals because I just can't get the doors to close as nicely as I want and be waterproof/draughtproof. I know draughtproof is pushing it a bit but I'm getting tired of sitting on a wet seat. I say I think I need new seals only because I've done a few changes to my truck and don't know if the problem is the doors - which I know the bottoms of both are knackered, or the hoop replacement being misaligned - which is a big chunky think now not the farty LR items, or just the seals being knackered. I actually suspect its a bit of all three. So, to my question (at last) I've noticed the seals on both doors have a solid bit inside the seal at the body curve by the handle and this is stopping me getting the doors to close tightly. Is this standard? I have already replaced the seals once, but for the life of me I will never remember if they were originals or copies. thanks for your help guys. IanB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 There's been comments about the blue box seals having inserts in around the 'bendy' bits to stop them collapsing / creasing - and that these bits have stopped peoples doors from closing easily. I don't think the original ones have these... There was someone on ebay (equicar4x4?) selling original seals for a tenner or so each, but they only seemed to have the passenger side. They were definitely higher quality than the pattern ones though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I recently purchased 2 door seals from Britcar, one Genuine and one Allmakes OE, they were absolutely identical (apart from the price) and neither had the insert in them. As Jon said, the Britpart ones do have the insert, I never realised until I cut an old drivers door one into pieces to stop the tailgate rattling. With the old seals the doors never shut properly but they do now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowasaki Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I've changed the main seal and added the bottom seal. My doors are 2011 spec so they had the other bottom seals too. I found the I had to mess with the hinges and door fit in order to make them shut properly whilst also sealing. They do require a proper clunk to close correctly but it's worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I have original seals on my '98 110. They have seen better days and having read about variable quality of replacement parts I bought some late model take-offs from a breaker on Ebay. Bad move because condition was not as advertised and I returned them, but that's another story. Bottom line, both my '98 originals and the late model take-offs had reinforcing inserts at the bodywork bend point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have replaced my seals in the past with genuine items. They had inserts at the shoulder curve. I always found that this was a good place for drafts if you had seals without the insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowasaki Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 What is the difference in price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 About a tenner for the blue box knockoffs, or about £80 for originals from LR... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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