AMB

I second Captain Tolly's creeping crack cure for difficult to find leaks. Beware - it finds it's way through everything, so cover anywhere that staining might matter. You may also need 2 or 3 applications. On mine gutter cracks proved to be one of the main culprits.

Spot on. Batteries are key here, as is the necessary supporting infrastructure. I did some research after a friend asked me about electric vehicles. Depreciation seems very heavy which makes them a superficially attractive secondhand buy - if the short range and comparatively long charging times are acceptable. I haven't seen published specs on automotive lithium batteries, but industrial are rated at something like 1000 charge discharge cycles before significant degradation in capacity occurs. Replacement batteries cost an arm and a leg and I'm suspicious that, as it becomes more common, disposal/recycling costs will bevome a large factor. I suspect that car manufacturers may deliberately include charge limiters such that the "full" capacity of the battery is not utilised. That should extend the apparent life of the battery and was probably what Tesla do which enabled them to extend the range of their cars with a simple over the air software fix during the Florida storm evacuation a few months back.

For what my inexperienced opinion is worth, I agree that it will probably be fine. A light pitting may even improve issues. Many years ago, it was practice amongst some engine tuners to leave newly machined parts outside to rust, before lightly rubbing down and fitting. The theory ran that rusting would remove any rough edges/spikes because they were likely to rust first. The remaining light pitting would tend to retain oil far better than a smoother surface and thus reduce wear. On the advice of an experienced tuner, I tried it on my first bike (a D7 Bantam) and a couple of later bikes. Have no idea whether it extended life, but certainly no related issues whilst I owned them

A second recommendation for Comma HyperClean

If you are into research try using Google reverse image search on advertising photos. Will often show previous adverts at higher cost and how long it's been on the market.

It'll almost certainly be the dim dip resistor

Would recommend that you add secondary door switches in parallel with the factory fitted switches. Could foil another trick that the thieves use.

Be careful re US purchase - some airlines can reject Li (and other) batteries in luggage.

Zapping can work, but generally only on single NiCd cells. I've used it as a short term measure but you have to limit the amount of power that you use. Loss of capacity can sometimes be restored on NiCds (and lead acid) using a pulsed charging conditioner. You are generally stuck with Lithium batteries as they tend to be protected with "smart" charging technology. Once they go better to either replace or re-cell the casing. Like HoSS I've been using Ryobi and been happy with the performance.

I used the Range Rover cap with one of the many published custom designs. Just modified the design so that it didn't alarm on bumps. Didn't fancy drilling into the expansion tank to insert the screws.

I know exactly how you feel and, like Simon, hope that you get lucky. My 110 was stolen in January and never recovered. Police did next to nothing. I got over 25000 shares on Facebook alone but only one report of a sighting - a taxi driver had spotted it driving erratically a few minutes after it had been taken. Despite the area being populated with ANPR cameras it was not picked up. I personally contacted every business with CCTV along the probable route but couldn't catch the reg on the accompanying car. Mine was only one of half a dozen stolen in the area within a few weeks. When I reported it, the police seemed more interested in my age and ethnicity than in actively pursuing the theft and advised me that, if recovered, I would be charged for all forensic costs, recovery and associated storage. Those costs probably wouldn't be covered by insurance. One of the local PCSO's took a personal interest, but could't do much except sympathise. Like you I decided not to replace with another Land Rover, just to put the work in then get it stolen again.

Agree - check non-return valve over front passenger door. On mine the valve body had split.

But not being able to tax up until May 2012 without an MoT since April 2007.

True, but if a vehicle had been SORN'ed it would show as such on the DVLA website, not as untaxed for 5 years.

Rather odd. MoT expired April 2007, yet tax was due from May 2012. Valid current insurance and MoT are required in order to tax a vehicle, so how was the vehicle taxed when it apparently hadn’t had an MoT for at least 4 years?

I agree in principle, but, in practice, you only need to take that all into account when trying to work into the margins of performance and heavier loads. My point was that you would not be working into that margin unless you have a cr@p battery or a much greater load, Your curve shows that the lower the current drain, the higher the useful capacity - a 30% difference between 7.2A discharge and 0.6A. 20mA is less than self discharge on a standard vehicle lead acid battery and almost certainly less than the standby load on the vehicle. On my 110 the standby load was less than 100mA. When the load is less than the self discharge rate of the battery itself you can work on Ampere hours and effectively neglect internal resistance, temperature etc. If you were to extend that discharge curve to the zero Amp point (ie self discharge) you would be somewhere in the order of weeks/months.

As stated above – it all depends! Why complicate the issue? Most tablets and phones are around 3Ah capacity and will run on standby for something like 200hrs or more, especially if automatic battery savers are installed. That gives a nominal internal battery drain of 15mA. Work on 75% charger efficiency and 20mA average from the vehicle battery should keep any phone charged. Depending on model etc you can probably have a main vehicle battery of at least 65Ah capacity when fully charged. Assuming that you need at least one third capacity to guarantee starting with a little margin in hand and commencing with a moderately charged battery, you will probably have at least 30Ah in hand to run theft alarm, phone charger and anything else left on. Starting from a fully discharged phone, you would take 4Ah (ie 3Ah at 75% efficiency) in the first 3 hours or so to take you to fully charged, another 0.5Ah a day to keep that charge topped up and so on. I’d be quite happy to leave that phone quietly charging in my car for at least a couple of weeks without running the engine - it's far less than the self discharge rate of a lead acid battery.

Half on, half off topic. After my 110 CSW was stolen my no claims on that car was reduced from 11 years to 3. Premium to insure another plus imposed exclusions are unacceptable. Not wanting another to be stolen and not seeing how I could have done more to prevent it, I am no longer an LR owner. Perhaps sometime in the future. Police attitude did not help. Local PCSO sympathised, but nothing was done despite reliable sighting and possibility of CCTV coverage along the route. In investigating insurance, I did find it best to go to a broker that I could talk to face to face. They found a company who would make allowance for the fact that the 110 was a low mileage second car and that I had max ncb on the main car. The off topic whinge - why has my travel insurance rocketed after investigation confirmed that I don't have a medical condition? I'm a diabetic and take some medications because of my family health history. All that has been declared in previous years. No problem. This year I have had some hospital checks - all clear. No indication of those family health problems. Yet, when informing my insurance company (as required by the policy) the cost has gone up - despite the lower risk. It's all a con.

I would replace the bulkhead rather than attempt to patch it. Looks like hours of work to patch and, once it gets in that state it's like painting the Forth Road bridge. There's also a fair amount of stripping down needed to patch. You may as well bite the bullet, strip down further and replace the bulkhead. If the main chassis is OK, replacing the cross member is fairly straightforward. However, I'd want to have a very good scrape and poke underneath before completely dismissing the idea of a replacement chassis as well.

I use one for the lawnmower, but wouldn't use it on a decent engine, for the same reason that you suggest.

I don't see why people are so surprised at this. It's a prime example of Goodhart's law in practice. "When a measure becomes a target, it ceases to be a good measure". Make low emissions a primary target and everybody looks at the cheapest way of achieving them. In doing so they ignore the reason for the target and aim to achieve the letter of it. You can see examples everywhere in NHS waiting lists, school exam results, employment statistics etc, etc. When I had a company car and was taxed on the basis of emissions and RRP, I plotted stated emissions against claimed fuel consumption across a range of cars. I would have expected to receive similar results for similar cars. With few exceptions I did. VW didn't stand out as different to many cars - tending to indicate that many manufacturers were probably designing cars to pass tests in the lab rather than in the real world. I vaguely remember a subsequent press article about researchers using a sniffer on the road and following different makes of car on the roads. Ironically VW turned out to be amongst the best in real world conditions.

Look at earths first. Where are you measuring voltage?

From Hazel Way, Crawley Down night of Friday 20th November. Niagara Grey,110 CSW 300Tdi, keyed on o/s rear quarter Engine No 21L 05467R, VIN SALLDHM67WA156901 Please share, keep a look out and report sightings to the Police Sussex Police Police Crime Number 47170009454 Now has (had?) Challenge roofrack, adjustable tow hitch. Fitted with pedal lock.

As many have said before it's down to Paddocks and any work that you do whilst getting frustrated with the wait would get paddocks off the hook. The goods are unsuitable for the purpose for which they were sold. Suggest that you go back to Paddocks quoting that and stating that their delay in remedying the situation is directly costing you money, for which, if they do not act immediately and in a responsible manner, you will be seeking appropriate compensation. They may try and get you to seek compensation from the courier. Don't fall for that. The courier was contracted to Paddocks, not you. Paddocks responsibility does not end until satisfactory goods have been delivered and accepted by you.

Stolen from Crawley Down, evening of 17th November. Please keep an eye open for it and notify police if it is seen.