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Fitting new springs & shocks


FridgeFreezer

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Well I've got a set of HD springs & decent shocks (plus all the nuts & bolts and gubbins) to stick on the RR, but a check of the haynes makes it sound almost difficult... surely shome mishtake?

Can someone give me the real world version of how to bolt this lot on? ;)

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disconnect both shocks at one end & jack the car miles in the air.

take springs out & put new ones in.

lower car & fit new shocks.

roughly speaking anyway, need to swop the shocks at the same time as the springs on the front.

oh id get new turret retaining rings as the studs always seem to snap off leaving you stuck halfway through the job.

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There's no need to remove the a-frame, front spoiler, track rod or panhard rod despite what may be said in the manual!

Start by giving it all bolts/threads a good spray of WD40 or plus gas a day before.

Do one spring at a time start on rears as they are the easy ones.

Rears

1. jack up axle

2. put axle stand under axle

3. remove wheel

4. undo shocker (top or bottom if your not replacing. Top and bottom if your replacing)

5. undo lower spring retaing plate (2 bolts)

6. put on spring compressors (use a cople of luggage strap if you don't have spring compressor). The old springs usually come out without compressing them.

7. Jack up body (don't over stetch the brake pipe)

8. Remove spring.

9. Fit spring compressors to new spring

10 refit is reverse order of removal.

That should take you under an hour now do the other side.

Fronts

Note where the shock washer and rubber sit before you remove them.

1. jack up axle

2. put axle stand under axle

3. remove wheel

4. undo shocker (top and bottom)

5. put on spring compressors (use a cople of luggage strap if you don't have spring compressor)

6. Jack up body (don't over stetch the brake pipe)

7. Try and remove spring / shock. If you can't get it out remove turret, remove shocker from the top then remove spring. You will have to remove the airflow meter (2 min job) on the nearside to access the turret bolts and remove the turret

9. Fit spring compressors to new spring

10. refit is reverse order of removal.

That should take you under two hours even if you have to remove the turret now do the other side.

It is a easy job if the bots nuts are not to rusted. It's only a pain when bolts start breaking and youe can't get the nuts off the front shockers. If the shocker nuts are rusted soiled I usually cut them off with the grinder.

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To add to the above:

If the springs don't come out with the axle on full droop, jack up the other side of the axle. This will force the side you are working on down enough to get the springs out.

Sounds obvious but thought I'd throw it out there.

You will have lots of fun undoing the lower shock bolts on the front. I hope you've got wratchet spanners! :lol:

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You will have lots of fun undoing the lower shock bolts on the front. I hope you've got wratchet spanners! :lol:

And an awfully large pair of steelsons, if I remember correctly!!!!!!! If you do need to grip the shocker with something, make sure you do it around the weld - otherwise they crumple with minimal force!! Go on, ask me how I know!!! :(

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To add to the above:

If the springs don't come out with the axle on full droop, jack up the other side of the axle. This will force the side you are working on down enough to get the springs out.

Sounds obvious but thought I'd throw it out there.

You will have lots of fun undoing the lower shock bolts on the front. I hope you've got wratchet spanners! :lol:

Plenty of pen oil the night before if you can.

When doing the above, watch out for the brake lines, depending on your luck, they can be snapped if drooping and jacking too much.

I did a all four corners last month, springs, shocks and brake lines in about 3½ hours, so yes, the haynus manual is fibbing to you (the big man above was looking down on me, the brakes even bled up in about 5 pumps :) )

One other tip is to check the length of the threaded stud at the bottom of the new front shocks, if they are too long, they can "bounce" on the rubber bush and give an annoying clatter as they hit the axle case when driving, trim them to at least what the fitted ones were, also, clean the thread well, saves any more ratchet work!!

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And an awfully large pair of steelsons, if I remember correctly!!!!!!! If you do need to grip the shocker with something, make sure you do it around the weld - otherwise they crumple with minimal force!! Go on, ask me how I know!!! :(

Oh yes, that can a bit of a bugger.

Chain wrench (as used for oil filter) might do it, or large stilsons!

Good job it didn't matter what condition mine came off in!

Andy

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