Headlining

[need4speed]

Ive been having thoughts about what im going to do regarding the headlining for my 110.

Id like to buy a nice new one but cant see me having those kind of funds available for quite some time So i was wondering if the old saggy ones that you can buy off evilbay etc can be repaired or restored?

Has anyone made a nice job of restoring an old cruddy one? Maybe with some pics of the results if at all possible?

[reb78]

This thread is worth a read.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/253555-Headlining

It's certainly what I plan with mine this summer

[need4speed]

Thanks for the link Reb. That Northmalvern bloke certainly did a very tidy looking job with that! And at a fraction of the cost of a new headliner. Top job!

[reb78]

That's what I thought. It looked a cracking job.

[JeffR]

First of all, you need to strip off the cloth/foam/powder covering from your saggy headlining. Wire brush the bugger. Beg steal or buy about 2 litres of fibre glass resin and enough chopped or woven strand mating (whatever is cheapest).

Find a flat surface to work on.

Coat the back side of the headlining in resin and leave to soak in and harden. Do the same for the front side.

When all is nice and dry use more resin and the matting on the backside (closest to the roof), leave to dry for a day or two.

Now comes the fun bit.....

On the interior side, once again coat with a thin layer of resin and leave until just tacky - now carefully put the cloth back on and using a small paint roller press it down.

If you've got the correct tackiness (you may need to experiment) the resin should not bleed thro.

Leave to dry and you have one waterproof, none saggy headlining.

Oh and when you've finished/waiting for it to dry, DO NOT reverse over it - really buggers it up.

Sorry got no pics, as , well, I reversed over it, but it did work.

[need4speed]

..Oh and when you've finished/waiting for it to dry, DO NOT reverse over it - really buggers it up...

Love it!!

Seriously though, great info there. Thanks Jeff.

[Boydie]

I replaced my headlining some weeks ago, from go to finnish, two days. Total cost (In AUD) $98.00.

Materials, 2 litres Acetate; Wire Brush; 5 litres contact adhesive. 2.5 x 3 metres thin marine carpet.

Tools, Various screwdrivers, your partner and a assistant or two good mates. and a hired steam wall paper remover. Paint roller and tray with say two thin pile rollers.

Okay, remove all the fixtures retaining the headlining, take note of where the differing scres and plugs go. Carefull of the tiny little clip that holds the free end of the sun visors, you will need a jewlers screwdriver to remove the cap to reveal the phillips head screw.

Okay manourvre the headlining out of the car via the rear door.

Remove the old headlining, then scrub of ALL the old glue off the fibre form.- with permission - I did this on our garden table, you will need a flat dining table size surface to work on.

Next wash it down with the acetate, remove amy dirt, nicotine stains etc, get it as clean as you can.

Okay, with the roller apply the contact adhesive to the underside of the carpet, with partner GENTLY put it where it can go tacky,

Place the fibre form on the table and again, apply the contact adhesive to the now very clean former.

Okay now this is the real kicker and for this you part you need that extra assistant, lower the carpet onto the headliner former, allowing contact with the middle of the former, that is the centre line front to back - not centre side to side - and as the carpet contacts the former work it with the steamer -- marine carpet will stretch but be careful with the heat of the steam as it will also easily melt, My method was to use the remaining roller to stretch the carpet as I gently steamed it, dont use too much steam as it will ruin your glue.

The carpet will mould to the various contours although the deep ones just rear of the passenger rear doors are a real bitch.

Make sure you lap the carpet over the former, let is dry for an hjour or so while you sink a coldie.

Trim off the excess carpet and through the rear door put it back in, starting at the lip above the rear door, then the centre clips, passenger light etc, grab handles and the centre console last,

Enjoy that second coldie and admire your handywork. The only problem you are going to experience are the rubbers arround the Alpine windows. You will NOT get these back, dont even try, the rubbers are designed to be fitted AFTER the headlining is fitted, if they bug you too much you wiil need get a windscreen fitter in to remove the alpines and replace them.

I used Grey/Black carpet and it looks great.

[V8Pete]

I've just finished sort out my headlining. The card was fairly sound so removed all the old covering, cleaned thoroughly and used wood hardener on the bits that had gone soft. Then covered it in stretch carpet from Mega Van Mats. Went on really well and fits all the contours. The area around the alpine windows was the only bit that stretched the carpets to it's limits.

But it all looks as good as new now. Excluding the cleaning bit, it probably took about 3 hours in total.

[sharpy]

Hiya,

Can't show any photos as I don't have my old landy anymore. What I did was to spray glue the roof and then fit thick foam camping mats for insulation. Once dry I purchased some speaker box carpet (£18, halfords) then this was also spray glued to the roof, lost the original contours of the roof, but I only started with a bare tin roof.

We have since though done my mates in a similar fashion, we removed the old vinyl and disposed of it as it was past repair, speaker holes, etc.

Reinforced any weak points with fibreglass and applied speaker box carpet, the stuff is quite pliable as it is used to mould around difficult shapes on speaker housings.