V8Pete

I got an HD one from Brookwell. It looks original and fitted without a problem.

It's worth checking that all the pedestals are the same heights by putting a flat edge across the tops of the bolts. If they're OK and the valves are all the same height then that leaves the rockers, pushrods or followers. The main issue seems to be the big variation between them all. Are you definitely checking them correctly in terms of camshaft angle? I used the following when I did mine recently.

When the engine is not running the silicon fluid in the viscous fan settles at the bottom at fills both chambers. So when you start it, for a short time, the fan will run as if the engine is hot as the fluid provides drive. Once centrifugal force has pushed the fluid into the correct chamber it will lose drive. To test it you need to leave the engine running for a few minutes before trying to stop the fan with a piece of card. It could be that your replacement unit was fine.

I thought a Q plate was used when they couldn't define a proper age for the car. It was a 1999 model so originally a diesel but had been fitted with a v8. The log book said it was a 3.5 but the engine number started 40D which means it's a 4.2. It had also been converted from a pick up to a station wagon. It had clearly had a lot of money spent on it looking through the receipts and it wasn't cheap parts that were used. But it sounds like the green tag could be valid if it's on a Q plate. However, the missing 60,000 miles was enough to put me off. Thanks for the answers.

I had a look at a Defender 90 over the weekend that was for sale at a local car dealer. It was a 1999 model on a Q plate. The dealer claimed it was on a Q plate because it had been exported and then re-imported, although I think that's rubbish. But what was strange is the fact that I couldn't see a chassis number on the chassis itself and there was no chassis plate on the brake servo mount. What it did have was a small green tag with 6 numbers followed by 'LR' riveted on the brake servo mount. This matched the chassis number on the V5 document. Has anyone see this before or have any idea if there's a reason for this? I decided it was all too dodgy, especially as they claimed the mileage was 73,000 but an online check of the MOT showed it was 112,000 back in 2007.

The bar style pedal came in around chassis number LA939892 so yours much have been one of the last U shaped ones. Didn't your kit come complete with a new pedal? i did the same swap on my 1988 110 and it came as a whole pedal box assembly including the new style pedal.

I believe the Santana gearbox is the standard V8 LT85 one. Assuming the crossmember is the same on the 90 as it is on the 110 then you need part number NTC1963. That's what I used on my 1988 110 which was exactly the same as the original.

I thought I was the only person sad/bored enough to do this. I previously put together a spreadsheet based on the service schedule in the pre-1993 workshop manual. I don't do the whole service in one go so I write the mileage in the box to ensure it's all recorded properly. I've added the whole schedule (petrol and diesels) and just hide the rows that aren't relevant to me. I've also added in 'Replace coolant' and 'Replace brake/clutch fluid' as these aren't listed as service items for some reason. If I get really bored then I might add an option to select the engine type so it automatically hides the service items that aren't relevant. Spreadsheet is below for anyone interested in it. Service record.xlsx

I fitted the Hawk system and it works well. Had problems initially with the central locking but traced it to a poor earth.

It looked like an ordinary deep socket but apparently it had lots of small teeth inside, rather than the 6 that the Irwin sets have.

SUCCESS! Tried a couple of garages who were unsure how to get it off. Tried an 'old fashioned' garage and he said he'd just bought some new sockets for this sort of job that he hadn't tried yet. And they work with no problem at all. Couple of taps with a hammer and perfect grip. Came straight off. And he didn't want a money for it - customer service isn't dead. If anyone's interested they were these http://www.welzhwerkzeug.com/products/product_view.php?product_id=502 Need to get myself a set. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions.

I'm just outside Chepstow - anyone nearby? Can't get the angle grinder in without damaging the hub or calliper and air sabre saw won't cut into it. Irwin bolts have now lost the sharpness on their teeth so won't bite into the bolts. Looks like heat and welding are the only options now.

I tried levering the calliper up and down and it moved a bit but hasn't loosened the bolt yet. I'll try a few more times. I don't have a welder so would need to take it to a garage to get a bolt/nut welded to it. Current plan is to cut a groove across it with an angle grinder and then use an impact driver and with an impact flat head screwdriver bit.

Sounds like I might have to take it to a garage and see if they can weld a nut on it. I'll given the Irwin sockets one more go and hammer them on but so far it just seems to have damaged the teeth on them (are the calliper bolts high tensile steel?). Thanks for the replies everyone.

Yes, I bought the extension set as well to get a 13mm as the 1/2" wouldn't fit. I even squeezed them on with a clamp while undoing them but they still didn't grip.

Decided to upgrade my front brake disks (on a 1988 110) but discovered that whoever worked on them previously has completely rounded off the upper 12 point bolt that holds the calliper to the hub. I've tried all the standard 'rounded bolt removal tools' and none of them has been able to grip it enough to move it. Given how inaccessible it is I think I have two options: 1. Split the calliper in to it's two halves so I can remove the hub. This might give me access to the reverse side of the bolt and more chance of removing it. Might still need to renew the swivel housing and possibly the calliper. 2. Unbolt the rear swivel retaining plate and the upper and lower swivel pins - would this allow me to remove the whole hub and swivel assembly as one? What do people reckon is the best option? Any other ideas? Thanks for your help

I sort of went the other way. I bought bare replacement doors and bought crash damaged steel doors to strip out the electric windows and central locking. If I remember correctly the replacement doors looked the same as my old 1988 doors (except they had a tab for activating the interior light switch) and all the internals of the steel door fitted without a problem. So you shouldn't have a problem going the other way.

There's a standard bell housing that will mate the two, possibly from the Disco 1 but worth checking with Ashcrofts.

I put in LED festoon bulbs and, although they're much brighter, the light is very harsh which makes things like map reading more difficult. It could be that the colour temperature isn't right.

I did the same to mine. Its a 1988 model so had no switch on the light or door switches - just the one on the lower right of the dashboard to change between interior light and dashboard lights. If your's is different then the following may not apply. You can leave it connected through the dash switch or disconnect it - all it does is put +12v to the lights when it's switched on. If you leave it in then the lights will not work at all unless the switch is in the on position which is a bit of a pain if you want to have them come on with the doors. If you put the newer lights in you need to provide a permanent live feed to them. I can't remember the wire colours (I can check tonight on my wiring diagram if necessary) but I cut the interior light feed to the switch and used this as the live feed. From the light units, one earth goes to the door switches and the other to a permanent earth. You can power them from one wire, but you might want to put LED bulbs in if you're putting three or four lights in.

I've got the same set up (110, V8 on carbs running 235/85 on LT85 gearbox). I fitted a Discovery transfer box to mine (higher ratio) and it could still pull over 70 on a motorway towing a 1.5 tonne trailer. Motorway hills slow it down so I'll probably go back to a Defender transfer box. But as others have said, I'd look at the engine first rather than changing diff ratios.

I've got a Skytag fitted and it works well. Sends a text if it moves away from my house or if the battery is disconnected.

I fitted one to my V8 for piece of mind. I know the oil pump is only low pressure but it is reassuring seeing the needle move to the middle of the gauge when at cruising speed. But as missingsid says, just don't look at it when idling. Ensure you wire it up correctly. I connected the live feed and the feed from the transducer the wrong way by accident and the needle would never drop down to zero after that (it's currently at the repairers being fixed). In terms of location, I mounted it where the cigarette lighter socket is next to the clock (drilling out the whole in the oval centre plate) and moved the cigarette lighter socket into a housing attached to the side of the radio housing.

I'd suggest checking the earthing. Either measure the resistance of the earth cable between the heater connector and the battery -ive or, when measuring the voltage at the heater, connect the -ive from your meter to the -ive cable from the heater (rather than direct to another earthing point) so that you get a true reading all the way through the wiring for it.

They're only needed from VIN JA917890 onwards which also when the later style grab handles came in. So I assume they're related.