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Injection pump leaking; L90-84;


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Martin,

Why don't you send or take the pump you're buying from e-bay and get it refurbished/serviced by a diesel specialist locally to you then it'll be back to near brand new and fit that and the one that you have to take off that's on your 90 will be able to be refurbished and be a spare for your 90?

John

Well I could check how much they want......I am just assuming that its costly..........what is costly????

I think everything is costly in Sweden. Just looking at spare parts for cars :( (Even Swedish cars!)

But you are right. I will ask. That does not hurt.

On the other hand I love to "refurbish" things......means in the end break it .........

I removed the pump yeasterday. It went faster then I thought. I hope I didnt do anything stupid. Engine is in timing positioin and I have "blocked" the cam wheel which easily rotates due to "spring" load.

/Martin

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Friend had a 19J pump and injectors done a few years ago for £450, but I think that was an ex-VAT price that went through the work books which he then paid back with his 'Saturday' money.

I've still not dug that pump out...and its raining...lots!

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Friend had a 19J pump and injectors done a few years ago for £450, but I think that was an ex-VAT price that went through the work books which he then paid back with his 'Saturday' money.

I've still not dug that pump out...and its raining...lots!

No worries. I have removed the pump now, so I will have time to disassembly it. I will figure it out now, once I have it on my work bench.

450???? OMG; But honestly, what is this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010442

Or is the "problem" here that these are not original pumps??? Not sure what OEM or aftermarket means in the case of injector pumps. Can there really be alternatives to "Lucas" pumps???

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Click the 'Aftermarket' icon (or any of the other icons), and a pop-up will appear telling you what distinction Rimmer Bros apply. I hope that if you asked about a particular part they would tell you which Aftermarket supplier they were using for that particular part.

HTH

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Some update!

I know, I said a summer vacation activity......but......

I did it now. I actually already see my bad O-ring..

AND I also imagine that I could have done this with the pump still mounted on the engine. Although I am happy I decide to remove it.

Sure if this would have been my third time doing it, I could imaging doing it still mounted, but not now. To many springs and other scary components.......

So I have just withdrawn the hydraulic head a little to see the O-ring. I will not withdraw it completely. I dont know what is expecting me if I would.

I will just snug the new over the hydraulic head.

Will I get the pump together again? I am not sure. There where 2-3 moments during disassembling which I actually dont know how the pieces will fit together again.

In regardless of all the pictures I took!

But either I will figure it out or I ask you pro's :)

Also, just a O-ring would not have been enough. I think you need to exchange more oring/seals once its now dissembled. Hopefully it will arrive within a week.

There is one tiny black cloud on the sky. When I removed the bottom banjo bolt on the main head (it has an Oring in the middle and is quite long, I thought I heard something dropping on my garage floor. I cant find anything.....but I am a little scared. My garage floor is not the cleanest one.....

I will just close my eyes and pretend it never happened.

Lets see.

To be continued.....

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Correct me if I am wrong but the NA uses a DPA pump does it not? The TD uses a DPS?

Also do you not need a test rig and specialist tools to rebuild one?

They look almost the same, why the refurbishing kit fits both.

To the point where I have come now, I have not required any special tool. But I think if I would to go further into the refurbishment, Yes, then I would need special tool.

But to replace the seal between the Haydralic and main house; No.

But as some one said in the beginning of this thread, its a pig job and I am nut even sure I will manager to get the pump together again.

So many small parts, seals, springs, orientation of all kind of parts.........of course this is where a forum comes in handy.

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Update; Got my kit today; Yeah!!!!

Opened the kit; CARP; about 30 O-rings and 25 metal seal.....no instruction where goes what....Sure I will only use some of them since I have not opened the complete pump....but to find the correct seals.....I will use the caliper as much as possible but you know what I mean........

Small instruction set which oring goes where would have been nice.

Anyway, I am about to start soon. Be ready to support me :D

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Well.....I managed to assembly the pump. Most of the parts actually could only be fitted in one direction/place so it was not so difficult.

Still the engine will not start.

I get fuel up to the injectors. Difficult to say how much although.

Anyone who knows how I can tell if enough is coming up to the injectors?

I have two concerns.

1. The throttle is very easy to press down now. Could of course be all the new seals. Before it was harder. Its still hard pressing back the throttle by hand on the actual pump.

2. There seems to be some more pressure in the main pump housing. When bleeding, after having cranked the engine, opening the bleeding nipple on the upper house, I get a 1-2 inch long squirt for a few seconds. Cant remember that had this before. Normally it would only sip out fuel.

But not to worry, I am getting my other pump next week, so I will have time to disassemble it again.

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Martin, Did you get a quote for the rebuild/servicing of your new to you pump?

John

No, not yet. We had some public holidays in Sweden last week.

I am still waiting for my pump bought on Ebay. If that does not work........

About refurbishing a pump. Maybe I wasent so careful as I should have been, but to be honest, its not that complicated IF you stop the refurbishing where I did. (I can although imagine that most refurbishing DOES required further dissambling and then the story changes....)

I did one mistake. I extended the haydralic head further then required which caused some parts to disangaged.

But really, if I wouldent have done that I really dont know what the real problem is. Its quite straigth forward. No special tools where required.

Lots of pictures. Most parts could only be situtuated in one direction.

Another VERY importantthing which some one already stated. Make sure to CLEAN and CLEAN and CLEAN and then clean your pump again BEFORE dissambling it.

Now I cant be sure its that simple anyway. Its my impression. But as you have read I have not managed to get my L/R running yet, so maybe its not so easy as I think....

I will check with some one what a refurbishment of a pump cost in Sweden. Just need to get some time!

/Martin

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Another update:

Got my ebay pump today. Installed it, adjusted the pump when timing was set and ......cranking cranking cranking....

Starting to bleed the system and cranking again.........Bleeded top of injectors.....cranking cranking cranking and then sudden it started.

Assembled everything together and took a ride.

I have a NEW L/R. Acceleration is really good. never was before. WOW.

Thank god!

To my old pump. I took another look yesterday. I made some huge errors. When I looked again yesterday evening, the timing was one tooth wrong :(

So I adjusted it and did everything over......still nothing....This afternoon when I installed the "new" pump I realized that the injector pipe nuts where loose :(

Means yesterday trial was nothing more then a disaster. Next time I buy something from UK I will buy the plate which lets you change the pump without having to remove the waterpump, timing belt.......Then I will give it another go.

I am sure it should work. I still believe that refurbishing the pump to the point I did should not be any problem. Its when you go one step further problems starts to arise!

But, that will be another day. Tomorrow morning I am going "Landy" to work! :D

Thanks all for your support.

/Martin

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Almost :)

I went to work now and I am happy. BUT I now realize two things.

1. The idle is quite low. At least lower then with the old pump. I know how to ajust this, even if Haynes says that you need special tolls......

2. (This is a funny one, becuase I actually had the other way around with my old pump) When I shift gears, the rpm drops really fast so I actually have to give some acc. during shifting, so that I dont end up with idle rpm once the new gear is in.

Surely if I eádjust the idle, this will improve a little, but could it be somehting else.

Otherwise the L/R is great now. Good acceleration and speed.

/Martin

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Well I adjusted the idle a little. (Actually I had to turn the screw more then I thought to get some noticeable change.)

Funny part is that now the L/R behaves better also during gear shifting, so I will leave it as it is for now.Means the RPM does not drop so fast any longer.

So that was that. Just to go back to the normal list.:( of things to do with the L/R.

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