Injection pump leaking; L90-84;

[g647415]

Hi Guys,

As you know I changed my liftpump some while ago.

Now I noticed that my injection pump is leaking.

One of the four pipe connections to the injectors.

Its the bottom pipe. but its not leaking at the pipe nut. Its leaking at the screw which connects the square part which the pipe is connected to and then onto the actual pump.

Its probably a screw wich hole inside letting diesel go from pump to injector.

I tried to tighten the screw but its already tight.

I assume there is some kind of a seal there. Coppar or rubber?

Common problem?

Or is it annything else which might be broken?

Actual square part...

If its a seal, I live in SWEDEN, I cant get a hold of a quick spare. What can I use?

Do you at all know what I mean or am I just writing rubbish?

[g647415]

Look at this picture:

Its the screw at the bottom left from number 4.(It has no number) I only see how its dripping from it, once the L/R is running!

[ejparrott]

I think I know what you mean.....Item 3 is I believe a banjo bolt, and there's one for each injector, and the one that's leaking is the next one round, sitting at the bottom corner, number 2 is the other end of it? I would imagine there's a copper washer or seal there, but there's nothing in the LR parts manual as it's a bought it assembly. You may be able to find something on the web if you look up the pump itself.

A 200/300 springs a leak from a similar place, where the square block with the 4 injector connections goes in to the main body of the pump, that's a large O ring and a pig of a job to do!

[g647415]

Bulls eye. Yes, thats the bolt I mean.

could well be it. I mean I only see it dripping from the bolt, the actual leak could be close by. Its not leaking when standing still.....

Its not so fun laying under the L/R when the engine is running. Its dripping quite much. I need to wait until the sun goes down. Its to bright for a flashlight.

Hmmmm O ring.... OMG, that does not sound fun at all. I assume you mean between the part where the stop valve is and the main pump.

Lets see if I see something in a couple of hours. Keep you posted and I hope you keep me posted of any other ideas!

[reb78]

You Can just see the copper washer under number 3. I guess your leak could be from the next one round.

Try a small mirror rather than lying underneath. You might be able to spot it without getting covered in diesel then! (try rummaging through the wifes makeup bag.... she wont mind you borrowing a little mirror from there..... )

[g647415]

she wont mind...............hehe, ever returned something borrowed from the wife with diesel/oil/grease on it?????

No, seriously. I have a small mirror on an extractable pin(like antenna). Its small but maybe I can see seomthing.

hehe, so cool; Borrow from wifes makeup bag for your land rover. No no no. That cant end well.

[g647415]

OK, found my mirror. (not the wifes)

Started the engine and had a look.

Its leaking exactly behind the banon bolt, but more close to the pump frame.

Means:

1. The seal between the square banjo bolt fixture and the housing is gone.

2. The seal between the two pump housings is gone. BUT, in that case its really gone diretly behind the square holding the bolt.

Its impossible to see where the leakage is.

(Square; The square part which the banjo bolt goes through and which also connect to the injector pipe!)

So my current plan is to remove the banjo bolt and then the square. Hopefully I will see if any seal there is gone!

Question, how will the "square" come loose? I see its fitted with a sheet metal plate close to the injector pipe. Seems all four pipes are connected to this sheet metal "frame"!

Of course I will find out while removing the banjo bolt, but any heads up are apreciated!

Thanks!

/Martin

[g647415]

CARP!

I removed it cleaned it and then put it back together. Still leaking. But not from there obvious since I cleaned everyting. Now its from below.

OK, I need to move to another computer. I found some O rings on ebay and I need to know whiich one I need to buy. Have also some additional questions. CAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARP!

[g647415]

Guys!

Is this what I need?

'http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231110031210

I have a L90-1984, 2.5N/A. How do I know if I have a Bosch pump?

(Mine seems to look like the one on the above pic!)

He claims the seal can be changed without removing pump. Would be great.

What do you say?

/Martin

[ejparrott]

I think you have a Lucas pump not Bosch, I think Bosch pumps were only fitted from 200TDi onwards. I have to have a hunt to know for sure though.

Edit, this type of pump for a 2.5n/a...

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/84513/5497/fuel_injection_pump_2_5l_diesel_new

CAV, not Bosch

[western]

Luvas CAV injection pumps on pre Tdi diesels, Bosch pumps on 200 & 300Tdi engines.

[g647415]

Thanks both!

What about this item? http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANDROVER-DEFENDER-2-5-DIESEL-DPS-TYPE-FUEL-INJECTION-PUMP-SEAL-KIT-7135-121-/271392961513?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item3f3047f3e9

[ejparrott]

I'm no expert on n/a's or TD's, got rid of both before having to get involved in internal engine affairs. It does appear to be the right parts though. I can't give you specific help, only general.

[g647415]

I'm no expert on n/a's or TD's, got rid of both before having to get involved in internal engine affairs. It does appear to be the right parts though. I can't give you specific help, only general.

I'll take, that its is the correct parts and hold you responsible if it isnt.

Seriously; Just happy to get some help. I appricate all the response/support I get.

I am so thankful.

In the end its my and only my decision to buy!

BR

Martin

[western]

Thanks both!

What about this item? http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANDROVER-DEFENDER-2-5-DIESEL-DPS-TYPE-FUEL-INJECTION-PUMP-SEAL-KIT-7135-121-/271392961513?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item3f3047f3e9

going by the info given, that kit will do the job.

[g647415]

Thanks.

LAST question. Do you think it will be possible to replace the O ring without taking of the pump?

I will start the disassembly later today and will see "trial & error" if I can get the parts apart a little, enough to take the O ring over the first housing.

Founds some threads here on lr4x4, but non where the seal is replaced with pump still on engine.....

I really dont want to remove the pump with all that it means. I just replaced the timing belt ...............and I would prefer not have to remove those parts again.

Of course in worst case...........

Sorry for all my questions.......

[g647415]

Ok, can some one atleast tell me how the housing which the banjobolts are screeed into is fixed?

I have removed the back cover but i thougth there where going to be long screws but there wherent!

What do i need to loosen in order to loosen the housing to see the seal!

(The housing with the banjo bolt)

Thanks

/Martin

[ejparrott]

Do you know....I may actually have a CAV pump for a 2.5n/a in the shed....I don't know why I've just thought of it, come to think of it why I've even got it.... If I remember in the morning I'll dig it out and have a look at it while I'm down at the Crick Boat Festival tomorrow

[g647415]

Do you know....I may actually have a CAV pump for a 2.5n/a in the shed....I don't know why I've just thought of it, come to think of it why I've even got it.... If I remember in the morning I'll dig it out and have a look at it while I'm down at the Crick Boat Festival tomorrow

That would be very nice. (How can I make that up to you???)

I found the work shop manual on the net, but that explains how to disassemble the pump totally. I dont want to do that.

I also imagine to remove the pump from the engine. Still I am worried about how to remove the housing with the pipe connections.

Either it fitted with screws from the bottom (THere is some kind of a piston like thing) and top (then I would have to remove the top cover and look inside there.)

OR its just screwed in place with big threads, but I dont think it is......CARP. With my luck I will break something before fixing it.

But now.....Its F1 time in Monaco and after that Ice hockey, so I will try to focus on that instead of the pump......for a while.

[David Sparkes]

Can you identify from this diagram which part you are trying to remove?

Going back 10 steps, when you were looking for the point of leakage, did you spray the complete pump with water washable cleaner, then wash it down with water so all the pump is bright clean?

I'm afraid that if you missed this step if will be very easy to have made an error when you decided where the pump is actually leaking.

Note that the square section items you refer to are the Delivery Valves.

HTH

[g647415]

Thanks for that pic!

I am trying to remove the hydralic head. How is this done? What is fixing it to the main head?

Yes, I cleaned all before, since I also in the beginning thought my leak was some where else. But as soon as I cleaned one area the leak just moved.

I also removed my delivery valves, cleaned them and attached them.

The last thing I did was to use compressed air to spray air when the L/R was running. Then I actually could see diesel leaking from the groove between the hydralic and main head!

[David Sparkes]

I am trying to remove the hydraulic head. How is this done? What is fixing it to the main head?

... I actually could see diesel leaking from the groove between the hydralic and main head!

I know you say you don't want to strip the complete unit, but removing and replacing the hydraulic head pretty much involves that.

Read through the manual you have found on the web. Don't ignore the rebuild instructions, I sometimes find that when I want to partially dismantle something it's often best to read backwards, seeing what is fitted after the the part I want to remove is installed.

I've never done this work, but the hydraulic head contains a transfer pump.

The hydraulic head is carefully aligned, the pushed and twisted into the main body by hand. It seems the oil seal around the outside of the hydraulic head makes it a snug fit. Later on, the transfer pump is inserted into the hydraulic head and tightened up by use of a special adaptor that fits in the slots the pump blades normally reside in. There is also a tommy bar inserted into the main body, the bar is used to hold the shaft still as the pump is tightened.

Before this however, it seems there are two valves that go through the side of the main body and locate in that part of the hydraulic head that is inside the main body.

Instruction 30.5.7 says: Align the locating holes in the (hydraulic) head for the latch and rotor vent switch valves with their respective holes in the pump housing (main body).

As you are working outside the expected workshop overhaul procedure I think all you can do read and re-read the manual, taking bits off (like the two valves) and seeing what comes loose. Work in the knowledge that you may end up with the pump reduced to a pile of bits in a plastic box, and having to eat humble pie at the counter of a diesel pump repair shop.

The alternative is to bite the bullet, take the pump off, and take it to the same repair shop, but this time at least he can be certain all the bits are there, which isn't the case when presented with a plastic box of parts.

Good Luck.

[g647415]

I know you say you don't want to strip the complete unit, but removing and replacing the hydraulic head pretty much involves that.

Read through the manual you have found on the web. Don't ignore the rebuild instructions, I sometimes find that when I want to partially dismantle something it's often best to read backwards, seeing what is fitted after the the part I want to remove is installed.

I've never done this work, but the hydraulic head contains a transfer pump.

The hydraulic head is carefully aligned, the pushed and twisted into the main body by hand. It seems the oil seal around the outside of the hydraulic head makes it a snug fit. Later on, the transfer pump is inserted into the hydraulic head and tightened up by use of a special adaptor that fits in the slots the pump blades normally reside in. There is also a tommy bar inserted into the main body, the bar is used to hold the shaft still as the pump is tightened.

Before this however, it seems there are two valves that go through the side of the main body and locate in that part of the hydraulic head that is inside the main body.

Instruction 30.5.7 says: Align the locating holes in the (hydraulic) head for the latch and rotor vent switch valves with their respective holes in the pump housing (main body).

As you are working outside the expected workshop overhaul procedure I think all you can do read and re-read the manual, taking bits off (like the two valves) and seeing what comes loose. Work in the knowledge that you may end up with the pump reduced to a pile of bits in a plastic box, and having to eat humble pie at the counter of a diesel pump repair shop.

The alternative is to bite the bullet, take the pump off, and take it to the same repair shop, but this time at least he can be certain all the bits are there, which isn't the case when presented with a plastic box of parts.

Good Luck.

That was not the answer I was looking for!!!!!

I was more looking for something like: "Remove those two bolts and then you can just snug out the head......."

Let me think for a while!

[g647415]

OK, maybe I have done something stupid;but it was my decision......

I just bought an used pump on Ebay. (It stated that it worked and was not leaking!)

I also bought the refurbishment kit.

So my plan is

1. Install the used pump from ebay and get the L/R running again.

2. Refurbish my original pump during the summer and then install that again.

3. Sell the ebay pump again.

Sure I will not get all my money back, but hopefully I will not loose to much money.

Of course assuming that I get my old pump assembled again without any spare left over....

So I will have to remove everything. Just the fact to empty the cooling water from the system makes me tired......

But now I have time. It will take atleast one week before I have the pump!

Thanks everyone.

I will keep you updated!

[jbs]

Martin,

Why don't you send or take the pump you're buying from e-bay and get it refurbished/serviced by a diesel specialist locally to you then it'll be back to near brand new and fit that and the one that you have to take off that's on your 90 will be able to be refurbished and be a spare for your 90?

John