sharpy Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hi again just had my cylinder head replaced and it's good, but not great? I now have no power? Engine sounds great but turbo doesn't seem to kick in, I have a constant whistle from around the turbo area when driving? When moving the whistle starts and continues until the clutch is depressed or in neutral. I'm assuming it's a hole in a pipe on the turbo some where? Also the new rocker cover didn't have a connection point for the engine breather that is in front of the cyclone breather so the pipe has now been cut and blanked off, would this cause loss of power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 On later engines the stub was deleted, but the raised area is still present, more likely a leaking turbo hose. Cyclonic breather hose differences early version item 1 to 8 inclusive http://lrcat.com/#31/4/53141 later hose items 9 on in link above. early version had 2 hoses. later only one hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Does sound like a turbo hose. Maybe a split if not a leaking joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Could be the boost pipe to the injection pump not connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 The boost Pipe is connected, in a fashion? The normal hard plastic tubing as it disappears near the alternator has been joined together ( for what ever reason?) by a larger diameter rubber hose sleeved over both parts and then banjo clips to secure? This was a weak point as the rubber looked a bit old. So I've redone that, I know not ideal? But that's how it's been for the four years I've owned the truck. I'm as we speak looking for a replacement, if anyone knows the internal diameter of the pipe that would help? Or in fact any of the turbo hoses? I'm going to replace them all I think? Is it ok to replace this hard plastic with rubber tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thick wall rubber hose should be OK, but you want something that won't swell under pressure. The diameter of the pipe only matters where the unions are fitted - there is little airflow through there, really just a small amount as the pressure and density change - the pump end is connected to a sealed chamber with a diaphragm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 what I once had was the front pipe to the intercooler delaminated and the inner part "sucked closed" when the engine started and revved up, could not figure it out in the beginning as the delaminated pipe "looked fine", only after fighting with it for several km did the pipe then delaminate to the point that is was visible. have also had pipes come off after being in the workshop, hose clamps forgotten to tighten..... so check that or a pipe that the workshop struggled to get off and then split in the process and have simply strapped back on.... do you know the old joke? "whats the difference between a land rover workshop and a land mine??...... land mine only ****s your car up once" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 So ive today got hold of some silicone boost pipe, taken off the old hard plastic affair and spotted some interesting joins? At the turbo side there is an inch or so of rubber tube that fits over the ribbed spout that is part of the tee, into this is a smaller metal tube bent at a right angle that then houses the hard plastic tube, into the rubber fix that I replaced at the start of the thread and then out to hard tube upto the pump. so the rubber tube, misshapen and slid off with no problems, the metal tube looks like the original brake lines that a defender has, even has the flare in it? So question is, do I now omit all the makeshift bits at the tee and run the hose directly to pump and tee? I know pictures would be great but I'm on my phone and can't figure it out? Will the bore size of replacement tube and length have any bearing on things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpy Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Thanks all, now sorted. What a faff! It turned out after all that the very first hose connected to the turbo had come off! We couldn't see anything wrong? As some of you may appreciate with all the added and convoluted pipe work that goes on with a disco into defender swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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