discomikey Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 this thread is greatly timed, im picking up my LT77 today, i have one distinct disadvantage however, a galv chassis. I'm going to have to cut it anyway. fed up of wrestling boxes around the gearbox crossmember to drop them out the bottom, so im going to weld some bolt on tabs for it. Apart from this i don't really want to modify the chassis, i can mount everything to the crossmember thats fine, i also want to keep the series tunnel etc if it is at all possible as i would really like to fit the WOR matting to it, obviously i cant do that with a LT77 tunnel. I also dont want to cut the seatbox much, so i will try to figure a way to retain the existing series lo/hi lever in the existing place, and create a linkage. That should be fun. I will also try to convert the yellow 4WD knob to difflock (although i will be fitting a selectable 4WD kit from ashcrofts too) i dont want it to look like there is a 5 speed in there at all if possible shall i post it up here or start a new thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 New thread of course, all conversions differ to the taste and desire of the owner. I to have a galvanized chassis, to be honest I gave up on "not wanting to damage the galvanized coating". I've cleaned the zinc coating so that I could weld to the frame for the motor mounts for the 300di conversion (now with turbo). After welding I sprayed healthy coatings of zinc paint afterwards some undercoating. Several years later the welds and mounts are still rust free. You'll be fine if you weld mounts to the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94798 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollywog Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Hi Mikey, I've just replied to your other thread, if you want me to measure anything up at all let me know. Tuko, Well it's now been the best part of a week since I got it on the road and I've got to say I love it! It's soo much smoother and quieter than the old Series box and really is a pleasure to drive. I've not yet had it off road to properly test the 4WD but today I did a 60 mile round trip to collect 250 roofing tiles and it performed fautlessly even overtaking Mercs on the motorway while carrying the load. Gearing is very close to my old setup; around town 30 sits near the top of 3rd, and in 5th it easily kept up with everything else on the motorway and not once did I have my foot planted to the floor - top speed is definately improved but I haven't pushed to see what it will do as the speed limits won't let me. Speedo is over reading by about 5mph - I must pull out the drive gear and see what colour it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Thanks Pollywog, my update should be online in the morning, having trouble with pictures currently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 have you had chance to test drive yet? i'm basically waiting on a prop before it is actually driveable. of course there are 1 or 2 other things i need to finish off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollywog Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 I've been using it daily and am very happy with it, I have tried the 4wd briefly up and down an unpathed driveway and all appears to be good but I need to sort out a guard for the hand brake before I take it off road for a proper test. There's a trial in 3 weeks time so that should be a good opportunity to properly test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Pollywog, I had a thought while servicing the 88 just before I went out of the country for a week. To solve your hand brake problem, why not swap the brake disc to the back of the drive flange and shorten the calliper mounting pillars, or get a stepped brake disc made up and shorten the pillars. Then you could rotate the back up to the top out of the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Pollywog, slightly OT, i see you have a wraparound diff guard fitted, do you have one up front? i tried one once but the series track rod runs too close to the diff pan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Pollywog, slightly OT, i see you have a wraparound diff guard fitted, do you have one up front? i tried one once but the series track rod runs too close to the diff pan Mine too, and it's trapping mud against the diff pan. Next time I have the track rod clear enough it's coming off again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 To be fair, its taken some serious knocks off road, and nothing so much as a slight ding, thats why im not so fussed it didnt fit (was a wraparound one too). they don't make em like they used to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollywog Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Pollywog, I had a thought while servicing the 88 just before I went out of the country for a week. To solve your hand brake problem, why not swap the brake disc to the back of the drive flange and shorten the calliper mounting pillars, or get a stepped brake disc made up and shorten the pillars. Then you could rotate the back up to the top out of the way Thanks I'll have a look at that but I don't think moving it to the back of the flange would be enough, a stepped disc maybe. Pollywog, slightly OT, i see you have a wraparound diff guard fitted, do you have one up front? i tried one once but the series track rod runs too close to the diff pan Yes I have them front and back, they are the Paddocks ones, the front fits tight up against the diff pan and hasn't caused any issue with the track rod, there's about 5mm of clearence and has been on for 18 months now. Years ago I bought a Rebel4x4 guard for the front and that did catch the track rod so was promptly sold on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thanks I'll have a look at that but I don't think moving it to the back of the flange would be enough, a stepped disc maybe. An Astra (I think MK2) front disc fits to the flange, you just need to drill 4 holes for the propshaft. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollywog Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 The new transmission got a bit of a test last weekend at the Mid-West Offroaders Club's Malvern fun day, the 4wd worked excellently, the props have plenty of travel even with the rear being that much shorter, and no issues with the handbrake hanging as it is. All in all I'm very happy with how it's turned out The only issue that cropped up (other than my getting lost) is that I have a Discovery knob on the transfer lever and due to it's shape it's a bit tight in 2nd low with the diff-lock engaged so I shall swap it for a Defender knob at some point. Pic stollen from the MWORC facebook page: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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