Pollywog

I have a 90 pedal with the early type 50 servo and master cylinder but I'm running discs up front. The pedal assembly itself bolts straight into position but I had to chop off the pedal and re-weld it on as its slightly longer than the series pedal, also you'll need metric bolts.

Easier to drill and tap the diff case to fit a small plug. Or look for a series 3 axle case with a filler already in the pan.

Thank you very much Kimberly you're a great help. Unfortunately that would put my ignition barrel behind the dashboard... oh well homemade it is.

Thanks, no I think I can work around everything else it's just that one measurement that will tell me if it's possible or not.

I'm looking at putting a full Defender dashboard assembly into a Series 3 Lightweight but need a measurement to see if it will fit. I already have a Defender steering column & surround fitted when I went to PAS but I fitted it to suit my driving position and wonder if it may be too close to the bulkhead to allow a full standard dash to be fitted behind it. Could someone be so kind as to measure the depth of the lower dash panel from the flat of the bulkhead to the front edge of the lower dash? I know the binnacle is the deepest part but that doesn't matter as I'll be building in a Discovery cluster flush with the front of the dash. Thanks very much in advance.

If you want to do away with the split pins how about knocking up something like this: http://www.seriesoneshop.com/contents/media/l_217254.jpg

Didn't they stop adding reinforcing when they changed the axle design in 80/81? I would imagine that they are not using the extended shackles due to lift caused by the parabolics as it looks to be sitting high already? The tray in the photographs is the tool tray style tray, I believe it's fitted the wrong way around as the projection you can see at the front is designed to hold the rear edge of the flat cover. FFR battery trays do not have that projection and instead have an upturned lip all the way around the outer flange to hold the raised lid in place.

Defender roof bars will fit a Series roof, I have a pair of Halfords bars for mine you can pick up second hand sets on eBay for about £25. If you're moving 8x4' sheets it may pay to fix some batten between the bars to support the centre of the sheets.

I hope you manage to get hold of Zeus to sort it out but as a side it may be worth contacting http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk they should be able to make some new good quality discs for you.

We managed to sort the wet floor in my Dad's old Freelander 1; If you remove the exterior trim from above the back door you will see 5 screws, silicone those screws up well and then put the trim back on and see if that makes a difference.

I went with the 'genuine parts' mounts from Paddocks and yes they came in blue bags but they have been perfectly fine and I'm very happy with them. I didn't need to trim off as much as shown above I just scalloped the top edge slightly. The biggest change to vibration levels came with changing the gearbox mounts to the same type as the engine. Those mounts I bought loose from a show but I think they are allmakes.

ABS Freestyle / Funbuggie, it's a mini based kit. I'd love one!

Yes I've stuck with bog standard prop yolks but I don't have any lift on my truck, it's running GME parabolics and Procomp shocks so get good articulation but at standard height. Tuko is running on coils so has more call for the wide angle props, and with Ejparrot's longer wheel base he shouldn't have any issues. I think Mikey has Rocky Mountain springs on his 88" which give some lift so it would be interesting to know how he gets on with the standard yolks. Do you have a part number for the skinny Rangie prop? Is it the same length as the Disco one? One thing I did note with the Disco prop is how little slip joint it has compared to the Series props but it doesn't seam to have been an issue for me so far...

Mine were shortened, re-balanced, & re-phased for £35 each by Proptech in Hartlebury near Kidderminster.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94591&hl= Rear prop is the original Series prop shortened, front is a Disco rear shortened and re-phased. The rear prop really isn't overly short, from the size thread in the tech archive I believe a Series 1 80" rear prop would have been the exact length I needed but it was quicker and cheaper to get the old one shortened. 2 weeks ago I spent a day at Whitecliff Quarry, I was able to do everything everyone else did and a few things others couldn't, I certainly didn't notice a lack of articulation and managed to misshape the tops of both rear wheel boxes on the axle twisters.

Myself, Tuko, Ejparrott, & DiscoMikey have all fitted LT77's recently so you'll find several threads about how we each did it in the Special Builds section. In my case I went from a late suffix D series 3 box, Fairey overdrive, 3.54 diffs and 235/85R16's to Defender LT77S & 1.211 LT230 with the same diffs and tyres. That's in an 88". Gearing is a touch lower than the previous arrangement but nicely so; 1st is quite a bit lower so pulling away on a steep hill is much easier, 5th is not far off 4th overdrive so it still cruises nicely past the Mercs & BMW's on the motorway. It's noticeably quieter, & much smoother. The only criticism I do have of my gearing is 30mph around town is right on the border of 3rd & 4th. The 1.22 transfer box might be better in that respect.

Thanks Les we'd tried that but it wasn't budging. We drilled through, bolted on some chain and pulled it out with a scissor jack.

For anyone else looking for the answer to this the local main dealer advised that using the castellated nuts without a securing pin would be fine.

Hello, I'm in the middle of trying to change the left hand rear driveshaft on a Freelander 2. The manual says to prise the shaft out of the final drive unit with a bar between the case and the driveshaft joint but the case covers the joint on the left hand side so this is not possible. I know there is a tool 205-928 that looks like a clamp that you can prise against but I don't have one and our attempts to make one have not been strong enough for the job so I have cut a series of slots into the driveshaft joint to get the pry bar in but it just isn't budging. Am I missing something? What's holding the end of the shaft in to the final drive unit? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance,

Hi Guys, We're looking at replacing the rear driveshafts on my Dad's Freelander 2 and have purchased some driveshaft assemblies off ebay, on arrival we noticed that these driveshafts do not have a slot for securing a stake nut, nor do they have a hole for securing a castellated nut. The seller has told us that these are newer style shafts designed for use with a Nyloc but we can't find any part numbers to correspond with a Nyloc hub nut nor any mention of this arrangement anywhere else. Has anyone come across this before? or have an idea of the part number for the nyloc hub nuts? Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks,

Looking at the rear tub it looks to be 100"

I have (blue bag) genuine defender mounts on the 200tdi from paddocks and on the gearbox some cheap defender mounts that I picked up from the Malvern autojumble (guy with the fold out truck who sells a bit of army surplus). I can't fault either sets of rubbers. Any progress on the front prop arrangement yet?

The new transmission got a bit of a test last weekend at the Mid-West Offroaders Club's Malvern fun day, the 4wd worked excellently, the props have plenty of travel even with the rear being that much shorter, and no issues with the handbrake hanging as it is. All in all I'm very happy with how it's turned out The only issue that cropped up (other than my getting lost) is that I have a Discovery knob on the transfer lever and due to it's shape it's a bit tight in 2nd low with the diff-lock engaged so I shall swap it for a Defender knob at some point. Pic stollen from the MWORC facebook page:

I was a little surprised at how many nice old Land Rovers were knocking around the campus, although I never saw that Series 1. I did have a look around Brian as I passed it in the carpark (those window mechanisms looked quite bulky are you going to make some door cards?) I must say though the award for best offroad vehicle I saw in action must go to the mine clearance tank they had on loan from BAE.