discomikey Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Are you meaning the freespool lever or pulling the wire/rope out? They're very sensitive to being bolted down flat and inline. Yes sorry, pulling the rope out, its fine on the last few wraps but the first and second can be quite a bit of work, i had read before buying them that they are one of the best freespooling lowline's about? It should be bolted fairly flat but even when i pulled the wire rope off it to replace with Bowrope (in my student house having never yet been fitted) i had to get someone to hold the winch while i pulled rather quite hard. I agree. Also, the grease inside is very viscose - presumably so it's still gelatinous in hot countries and stay where it's supposed to be? In the relative cold of the UK, it's reasonable to replace it with something with lower viscosity. A popular choice is swivel grease. I changed mine for swivel grease and the freespool is suddenly useful! Si I've never taken a winch apart before, i take it you just remove the cap off the reduction gearbox end rather than stripping the whole lot? P.S. mods, i realise this is off topic, maybe it should be moved to its own thread if possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 All the gearbox is in the freespool end. It's just screws. Try not to pull the shaft off the motor otherwise it's a pain to get in again. It takes a bit to line the gears up putting it back together but just take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Well I loosened the fit until the 2.6mm o ring was leaking air and the return spring still couldn't retract it so I went back to the 3mm o ring and widened the groove do that it could roll up and down and now it works a treat Due to how weak the spring in the winch is I'm worried that it won't retract when it's covered in mud. If that happens I might have to redesign with the moving parts inside but we'll suck it and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Finally got around to connecting this up. I decided to take a separate air feed in the end as it would give me a bit more control with it being experimental. As always done with what I could scavenge so it's starting to look pretty untidy but it works so meh... I used a 3/2 solenoid valve so I could put a dash switch and grill switch next to the other winch controls. I wired it like when you have 2 domestic lights in one room to avoid any walking back and forwards. Now I just need to cover it in mud and see if it carries on working or just falls flat on its face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Good job, and I have switches in the dash exactly where you do, courtesy of a 1mm slitting disc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Yes its a good place for them Winch switch would be better somewhere else though, it's a bit of a stretch and not comfortable if your trying to drive at the same time. Wouldve been better down by the gearstick or near the window. Still, you live and learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Wouldn't moving the winch switch to the right be an improvement already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Yes it would. I would also move the LEDs as having a gap between the switches helps when your trying to do it in a moving vehicle with a gloved hand. It's on the list... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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