Defender Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I'm in the process of finding a Defender for my better half and she has decided she wants a TDCI 90 XS SW, just wondering what peoples experiences are with the new engines as an everyday driver and is there anything specific engine wise I should be looking for? We are most likely going for the 2.4 as don't think my budget will stretch to a 2.2 yet. Any help/buying guides appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_NZ Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I've owned both, so off the top of my head... The 2.2 is a better city driver than the 2.4, both can be improved immensely with a good tune from someone like Bell Auto Services. For the 2.4, check for any rough idle, black smoke, I've had problems with injectors and the vcv (valve) once the miles get high, or if its had some bad fuel. Both suffer from wear with the gearbox to transfer box drive coupling, look for any rust marks around the drainage holes in the gearbox extension housing, or excessive backlash in the drive train. The 2.4 had clutch spring problems, most have probably been sorted by now though. Other than that, the usual "how does it drive/look and service history" stuff. Incidentally, my 2010 2.4 was much better than the 2008. Both 2.2's I've had have been great. Cheers, Tim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I had a diff fault with low miles - a knock that sounded like the rear door rattling on the overrun. It was a failed split pin retaining the diff's cross pin, the cross pin sliding out until the inside of the crown gear and contacting the head of the pinion gear. Could happen to any Rover diff, though. I also had the turbo heat shield break around a mounting screw, but that was fixed cheaply with the use of a washer. Panel alignment was poor, so I spent a day adjusting them. The rear cross member pain is microns thin, so will benefit from red oxide and an aerosol of black paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Check the battery: Puma-engines come with 'smart charge' alternators that need to be matched to a compatible battery. If you fit a 'generic' type of battery it can get screwed by the smart-charge [which can whack out 18 volts or so after a cold-start at low ambient temperature] and this can really mess-up the injection settings. [i made a significant profit a couple of years back from this: bought a 4-year-old Puma-powered Mondeo for a pittance because it ran like a dustbin-full-of-scrap-iron and failed the MoT emissions test. 5 minutes with a code-reader showed loads of voltage-errors. Fitted a proper 'smart charge' competent battery (£180 from the local Ford dealer, 3-year warranty) in place of the stupid lump-of-lead it had in it, and it ran emissions-test-passing perfectly. Sold it on for £4500 profit!] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Check the usual Defender stuff: chassis corrosion etc plus flaking finish and subsequent rust on all the extrnal bolt on bits that are powder coated [bumper, side steps, mudflap brackets etc]. Also check for clutch rattle, sloppy drivetrain which may indicate a worn diffs [or knackered front diff if it's a 2 pin] or worn intermediate shaft betwee the main and transfer box [notorious for being assemble] with minimal or no lubricant. Noisy EGR valve. Leaking windscreen frame to bulkhead seal. Worth looking at what road tax band it's in, later ones are all N1 commercial so cheaper. Oh and moving this to the Defender section 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Thank you so much everyone that's really useful information. On the upside it seems there's nothing too serious so that's good news, they are a world apart from my 300 tdi and was surprised how much more comfortable they seem. Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Corrosion around the screen frame and dummy hinge blocks and aircon lower grille seems a favourite too. Ideally try and find one that was Waxoyled [Dinitrol etc] early on in its life as Land Rover stopped applying wax when the Puma was introduced on '07. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 Sorry to drag this up again but I have another question: I've ben told that a 110 commercial has a different tax rate to a standard 110 SW is this correct? Something like £210 opposed to £505. If so does that mean that a 90 hardtop has a different tax rate to a 90 SW? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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