seriebil.dk Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hi I hope you will find this interesting and that i can get some advise, even the fact this Land Rover is LHD. History of the project is long, way to long. it started some 10 years ago, when i bought a 1967 109" STW, Ex. danish civil defence. got it home, stripped it apart and order a new chassis, springs and started to rebuild it. Then life got in the way: the project has moved twice, changed specs several times and will for sure change again. but this is how it looks to day: 1965 SII 109" STW on the papers Richards Galv. Chassis, made for 2.5 N/A engine, removable gearbox crossmember Rocky mountians spring Salisbury rear axle, series diff. Std. Rover front axle, series diff. Disco 300 TDI engine LT77S gearbox LT230 transfer, ratio 1.2 PAS steering - LHD P38 steering house + defender coloum and the rest series SIII Bulkhead SIII front end SII from bulkhead and backwards. Interior - will come in time.... Status oktober 2015: Chassis with springs, dampers, axles = rolling chassis Engine and gearbos mounts made, using 2.5 N/A chassis mounts, LHD side engine mount from 2.5 and homemade RHD mount to go around the oliefilter, gearbox mounts from 110", bolted to chassis in new holes with crush tubes. engine and gearbox dropped in for test fitting and task finding. SIII bulkhead in the making, found a good one, the only need og new footwells and doorpillars - ready for test fitting and modification to suit the LT77 gearbox and new steering setup. SIII Frontpanel - found a rustfree takeoff, and started to mod it for 300TDI radiator and TD5 intercooler. radiator needs to sit as far to thr RHD side as possible, to leave space for the P38 steering house, the intercooler just high enough to clear it So now the task at hand: being a LHD, my space on the LHD side of the engine is kind of restricted, hence the P38 servo and defender coloum, giving much better space around the Turbo and alternator. i will have to cut the inner wing and make some new, but would prefer keeping it to a minimum. I know I can get(or make one up) a Gwyn Levis bracket for a second or in my case one alternator in the A/C spot, that moves the alternator for me, leaves great space for steering and hoses in the old spot. but what about the Fan belt ? can i just get a shorter one or do i need to make up on idle pully or ?? any advises would be helpfull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Looking good. I'll be fitting a 200 Tdi into a SWB soon.. You can get shorter belts so moving the alt. should not cause too many problems. Not sure what you mean by "topedo" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hehe, edited, please bare with me - english is not my native tongue Torpedo = Bulkhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 "english is not my native tongue" Know the feeling - Me not speak English either... Hope that transferbox ratio works for you. It doesn't in my 110... Interesting project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I did not have to alter my Series 3 bulkhead for either the 300Tdi or LT77 but it appears in the pictures that your motor is sitting higher than mine. The crank center bolt, is that visible through the hole in the front cross member? The serpentine belt on the 300Tdi is I believe a bugger to try to match up with anything else. Even with my motor being lower I have no issues with the alt & inner fender. As mentioned above I to think that the gearing will be too low. You can either install 3.54 diff's which affects all gears in both Hi/Lo range or change the gear set in the LT230 to 1.003 which I did and very happy with. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 The 1.2 transfer box will probably be ok with the Series 4.7 diffs, the problem with the 110 will be the 3.5 diffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yes i hope the ratio will work, you all had me going, the other day, when writing about ratios and diffs. i'll stick to this, until proper road tested, if not working i can go both 1.003 og 3.5 diffs. the problems is not the alternator and the wings, it is getting better space for the steering rods and P38 servo uit. i might explain better. i'm fitting the P38 servo unit in the hole for the normal series steering relay - WHY?: due to danish law, i'm not allow to alter the chassis and fitting the servo house on the outside of the chassis is to big a modification of the steering setup for the MOD guys to approv. see this tread for more, i'm just doing it on the LHD side: http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5472&start=15 so cutting the wing is to get space for steering rods, moving alternator is to get better space for P38 servo unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yes i hope the ratio will work, you all had me going, the other day, when writing about ratios and diffs. i'll stick to this, until proper road tested, if not working i can go both 1.003 og 3.5 diffs. the problems is not the alternator and the wings, it is getting better space for the steering rods and P38 servo uit. i might explain better. i'm fitting the P38 servo unit in the hole for the normal series steering relay - WHY?: due to danish law, i'm not allow to alter the chassis and fitting the servo house on the outside of the chassis is to big a modification of the steering setup for the MOD guys to approv. see this tread for more, i'm just doing it on the LHD side: http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5472&start=15 so cutting the wing is to get space for steering rods, moving alternator is to get better space for P38 servo unit Interesting link, I've never seen it done that way. Of course moving the steering relay in it will cause the clearance issues. Does it matter what version of the P38 steering relay that you use? ......just wondering if using either the RHD or LHD relay would move the steering linkage outwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Interesting link, I've never seen it done that way. Of course moving the steering relay in it will cause the clearance issues. Does it matter what version of the P38 steering relay that you use? ......just wondering if using either the RHD or LHD relay would move the steering linkage outwards? I looked at that too, RHD will mean it won't fit behind the frontpanel, if you look closely on som of the photos in that tread, you can see his servo unit is very tight with the front panel. i will try to make a try fit and take photos, just need to get that pitman arm off....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vonfries Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Hey. I just purchased a SWB SIII with RRC axles so it means springs and discs. I'm GOING to put a 300tdi in it, I'm just wondering: Thought is to take drivetrain from Disco and thus a R380 (longer version) with all that entails. Shifter will have to have some mechanism to make it not sit in the middle seat so then I'm thinking maybe just get an automatic and solve that problem... thoughts? Will it suck mileage wise to have a 4speed automatic instead of a 5 speed manual? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Friend of mine has installed a 101 style remote shift to his R380 to bring the linkage back to normal place, and it's working fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daslandroverman Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 This one? It's an LT77, works well enough, no less vague than a standard series box anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 That's the one..went looking for it after posting and didn't get time to get ack. Yes it's an LT77, but the mechanism is the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Well, better get this back on track With a little help from friends i got the Pitman arm of the P38 servo unit and set to work, machining Grinding it down in size to fit in the original series steering relay hole. along that i made the top plate which will hold the servo unit. well see pictures. removed the alternator and a trial fiiting of steering parts. parts used: P38 Servo unit, steering coloum and links from 2008 puma 110" and the original pitman arm - maybe i can just lower the Servo unit 5-10mm more and bend it ?? any one tried bending cast iron this thick Can any one give me a measure on how much of the steering coloum i should have on this side of the bulkhead ? - i have no reference, as i'm building from collected parts, no donor car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 also been busy cleaning parts using citric acid in this big grey tank with lid. drop it in leave for 24 hours or more, wash in water, wirebrush them a bit. if not clean enough, just back in the tub and wait 24 hours. easy, clean and it will remove everything: paint, rust, etc. but no oil or grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I would not even consider trying to bend a cast iron arm. On my 109 which has PAS, the two holes in the bottom of the outer steering column are sitting on a bracket just below the angle of the footwell. Ideally it's a bit too high, but looking at yours I can see you have the bottom of the column sat slightly lower than mine, so you should be good as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Is that a LHD steeringbox? Can you fit a RHD box instead? The angle looks pretty extreme to me. Also, Ideally both u/j should make the same angle to get a linear relation between steering input and steering angle of the box. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Thanks, well i use a LHD box because a RHD won't fit behind the frontpanel. and LHD is more common i Denmark. The angles on the photo looks a bit extreme, I moved the complet steering around a bit, which divided the angles more to both U/J's. also the bottom end of the steering coloum is not fixed yet, i have to modify the bulkhead support first and find the right length on both sides of the bulkhead - glad i have the 88" to take measures from. about the pitman arm, i have research a bit on Santana and it seem a pitman arm from a Santana 1982 and forward has the same splines and the needed bend, so have to get one of those - i guess SWMBO aka GLW won't mind a holiday trip to Spain to pick up some parts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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