z4cAtS Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Hello. I was wondering if it is possible to fit a Defender type handbrake unit on the back of a Series 1 transfer box? Mine current one is effectively useless and I want something that will be safe when trialling. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Don't belive so, I went with X-Brake! If Defender is like RRC type brake then it is much deeper so it needs a deeper output flange on the transfer box IIRC? What is your reason for going Defender is it cost or strength? As I have 3:54 diffs so the std brake does not hold on very steep hills. What S1 do you have? When I got my new brake it did not fit correctly, I spoke to SimonR on here and he replaced the main mounting plate with a new one as some S1 transfer boxes are a couple of mm longer than others! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 X Eng.The series handbrake isn't difficult to get working correctly though, there's not much to it. Usual problem is oil leaking in from a knackered output flange seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 The real problem, I believe, is that the handbrake just pulls the engine/gearbox against the ageing rubber mounts and takes most of the effectiveness out if everything isn't perfect. The brake itself is plenty strong enough. I'd imagine getting the Defender cable setup to fit would provide enough of a solution, though I've never tried it personally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 There is a stay for later Series vehicles that stops the engine and gearbox moving forward, don't know if the Series 1's had such a thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z4cAtS Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 I have an S1 88" with a Rover 3.5 mated to a S1 gearbox (dipstick) and a Salisbury rear axle. Not great photos, but they give an idea. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN7bBLh30dOWhW_E3ZFbXdwBGb_ZYqVhfBXtyF8byyZpXnobUahnm21cMGpDfVL2g?key=ZzFvLTk1OHNic3gtLUdTS3dNM2hXeDhwNmU0d0ZR What I need is a handbrake I can rely on when I fail a climb. It looks like I have room for the deeper brake unit. I cleaned up the brake mechanism last year, but it isn't good enough. I will be doing a rebuild either on a new chassis or possibly repairing the grot (you can see some on the close up picture on the left side of the chassis rail) if I can convince myself it is worth saving. What I am after is something that will survive being trialled on a regular basis. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I think you want X Eng then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 All you need is the longitudinal tie rod Ed mentioned - it is a steel rod that connects a bracket on the bell housing to the cross member under the back end of the gear box, with rubber bushes at each end, that prevents the fore-aft movement of the engine and transmission when the brake is applied. It more than doubled my brake effectiveness when I installed one. It was standard on MoD LRs but optional for civil. Dunsfold Land Rover will have all the parts, I'm sure, and it won't cost much money or time to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Why does the engine and gearbox move fore and aft when the handbrake is applied? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Because it's on flexible rubber mounts, and the hand brake mechanism dropping down from the lever becomes a 'pull' movement and that drags the whole lot towards the crank rigidly mounted on the chassis. Used to raise the revs of my Series 3 by about 300rpm when the hand brake was applied hard enough to hold it on a hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z4cAtS Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 ej, do you have an X-brake on yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 It's odd but I've never had a problem with mine. I've always found the handbrake very effective. I don't trial it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 With a V8 the killer is going to 3.54 diffs as this affects the effort required to hold the brake still when the diff acts as a multiplier! X-Brake does two things, improves thegripping force and removes the oil trap which is the very thing that must not get oil on it! Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 ej, do you have an X-brake on yours? I do yes. Got fed up with trying to sort out my original brake, although that was mostly the fault of a transfer box that needed rebuilding, on account of a PO who sheared the end off the shaft, and decided to weld the output flange to the shaft. Total effect was of a speedo drive gear that was loose, a shaft that floated around, and no means to adjust the end float, with a knackered seal to boot that couldn't be changed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 It's odd but I've never had a problem with mine. I've always found the handbrake very effective. I don't trial it though. The original brake on The 109 was also very good, never had any trouble with that. Having swapped to an LT230 I've got the defender brake but it isn't as good, though that might be something to do with my hybrid linkage. I've got an X Eng brake for that now too, just waiting on a rebuilt LT230 and then I'll swap the lot in one go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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