Oil, if it meets spec?

[Nigelw]

I was in a tank station today, diesel and thought might be good to change the oils before the big trip back.

Now, I thought one of the many ideas behind Europe was to achieve a certain standard for products, my attention today was oil, I winced at the 45euro for 5 litres and decided to just do at the garage next week when over with Erik for the annual APK.

But, if an oil meets specific SAE regardless of branding, they should all be essentially the same shouldn't they?

I ask as the attendant was busy telling me how cheap oil is xyz and the new Total ultimop was the dogs ddanglies in oils.

SAE is SAE? Or is there an underlying standard?

[Aragorn]

There are various standards.

API have a standard system eg SL/CF

ACEA have various standards too, labelled similar to A2/B3

You can look both of these up and it'll describe what each letter code means.

Each manufacturer will typically also have their own standards, usually over and above the basic API/ACEA standards, often for their long-life servicing schemes or peculiarities with the engine design (Eg VAG PD engines are quite hard on oil due to the shearing action of the unit injectors, and most oil companies end up producing a specific "PD" oil to meet VAG's specs)

For a 200tdi though, anything that vaguely looks like oil will do the job Modern oil has progressed a long way since the stuff the 200tdi was designed to run on, so literally anything on sale will almost certainly do the job.

[Sheffield]

With the TDI I don't think it is what oil you use that is most important, it is how often you change it, and the filter of course.

[Cynic-al]

I was amazed to find asda brand oil was approved to vw spec.

The hydraulic machines at work don't have their oil changed for their entire working life and they run all day every day for 20 or more years. The only difference as I see it is the engine oil gets contaminated from the combustion process and goes through a wider temperature range so I like to change it regularly but with anything the right grade.

Don't forget some of them sell special magnetic oil so it sticks to your engine to help cold starting

[FridgeFreezer]

I posted a crash course in oil labels from a mate in the industry a while back, might be useful: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73665&p=629988

Another one on tractor oils: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=67677#entry581539

Bonus tract from him on oil additives: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59187

[pat_pending]

If it meets the spec', use it, don't worry about who sells it.

We buy whatever the motor factors can do the best deal on, I'd be embarrassed to tell you what we pay!

We do have to buy a 1000 litres at a time to get that price though and we have to stock 5 different engine oils to service the current range.

There are some engines that do (probably) need a specific oil, most will be quite happy on any old stuff.

The most important thing is to change it regularly.

[Nigelw]

Oh yes, I change it every 5,000kms so it's always fresh.

But for me it was enlightening to hear a true sales pitch on Total oils vs unbranded but meeting "XY&Z".

I've run a flushing additive a couple times too, added a can of supercharge stuff from Wynns on every change and once I fix the oil leaks it's getting a tube of slick50.

[Sheffield]

One problem with buying cheap oil is being sure what is in the tin matches what it says on the tin. It seems it is not only the smaller companies and traders that can mislead.

[FridgeFreezer]

added a can of supercharge stuff from Wynns on every change and once I fix the oil leaks it's getting a tube of slick50.

Why? If the oil is made properly & to spec you're just bu&&ering up the additive mixture by adding other snake oils to it. Have a read of the link I posted about additives.

[Smego]

Costco £2.10 per litre! :-)