OilIT Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 hi i need to remove mine, but not sure the easiest way to get to it - any comments advice appreciated ! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 No suggestions but post pics when you do. Mine could do with coming out to lub the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 No suggestions but post pics when you do. Mine could do with coming out to lub the bearings. GRR - not a simple job - you end up dismantling your whole dashboard... OK, here goes Remove centre console/gearbox tunnel plastics remove the sound deadening pad under dash on passengers side unscrew the three screws underneath and two up under where the sound deadening panel was to remove the glove tray on passengers side undo the panel under the drivers side steering wheel - two plastic screws (be very careful - mine was REALLY brittle remove heater knobs and unscrew facia that holds heater control, clock and cigar lighter - remove carefully - again be careful of the plastic which is tucked up underneath each footwell behind the main dash panel you now need to unscrew the plastic shroud on the steering column and remove the top and bottom shrouds undo and remove the dash (speedo etc) surround and remove clocks completely Undo the four bolts holding the grab handle on (hidden under the rubber mat) and remove mat and handle. The dash is held to the 'a pillars' via a metal bracket underneath where your feet go and you need to remove the 2 x 7mm bolts on each side. if you look where the clocks were, you'll see two bolt heads going through the base of the dash - remove these two on the passengers side, where the glove tray was, you will need to disconnect and remove the air vent pipes, and you will see two bolts that screw up through the metal dash base - remove these as well. Remove the steering wheel and indicator stalk - unplug and it comes over over the column (to avoid breaking the switches) You should now be ready to give the dash a good tug from underneath the passengers side and you will find it will come away - whilst lifting it up towards the screen If you havent removed all the vent pipes they will hold it from coming away completely feed the wires from the speedo/clocks etc carefully through the dash aperture take dash out of car Big isnt it Now, looking at the heater, the motor is in the canister type looking area which is tucked up under the metal bodywork, so I have removed the whole heater (as follows) - somebody may tell you that you dont need to do this if you unscrew all the screws holding the plates on the ends of the cyliners - I chose not to test this as I wanted to look at the heater matrix as well You will see at the top on each side of the heater a nut holding it to the bulkhead - undo these - and the ones about 5-6 inches below them Undo the two pipes to the heater matrix (under the bonnet - passengers side) Once the jubilee clips are free, you can drain the coolant Once all coolant has come out, you can go back into the car and gently wiggle the whole heater towards you - make sure you pull it from the edge closest to the bulkhead or you may break the plastic housing - you will also need to pull off the two heater duct pipes that are connected to the bottom front corners of the heater unit that run along the underneath of the now removed centre console you will also need to make sure you lift the front bottom edge up to clear the bodywork around the gearbox tunnel - you may have to do this after pulling the top out from under the metal bodywork. assuming your jubilee clips are loose enough it should all come away towards you make sure you have disconnected all the wires going to the heater switches (the connectors pull off the back of the switches) there are also a couple of wires going to a solenoid looking device on the left hand side of the heater unit - remove these two (see picture in 27 below) Finally, there is a black pipe which goes to a tee piece on the heater - pull this off and you should be able to remove the whole heater. This gives you ability to take the heater assembly apart and do whatever you need to do Hope this helps, I haven't put mine back in, but as haynes say - refitment is the reverse of removal I have some pictures, if somebody can tell me how to post them permanently i am happy to do so. regards Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 You can attach images to posts or perhaps better create your own forum album and upload pics to that (see pnned threads at the top of this forum). Think I'll leave mine to whine a little longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Think it gets easier with practice - mate did the one in my Range Rover (same heater, pretty similar dash) while I was working on the engine, and cursed it, but now he knows what he's doing he's just done his own truck in a couple of hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 well done all of you who atempt that job, when my heater starts to whine or squeal... i'll buy a warmer coat... i'm used to driving defenders so the heater is a luxuary anyway........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Could be worse...having done the one in my truck, Jonathan talked me into buying a complete softdash to fit to it. He's now looking at the pile of bits in my garage and trying to persuade me it was a daft idea and I don't want to do it after all... (deal was he'd do the dash if I fitted EDIS ignition to his truck). Not actually sure if it's possible, anyway - think the bulkheads might be different. They've certainly got holes in different places, but if that's all I can take care of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Could be worse...having done the one in my truck, Jonathan talked me into buying a complete softdash to fit to it. He's now looking at the pile of bits in my garage and trying to persuade me it was a daft idea and I don't want to do it after all... (deal was he'd do the dash if I fitted EDIS ignition to his truck).Not actually sure if it's possible, anyway - think the bulkheads might be different. They've certainly got holes in different places, but if that's all I can take care of that. Hmm, it took me about 3 hours from start to finish to get it out, not sure if there is any easier way - bar buying a thicker coat !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 4 hour job for me including taking the heaterbox right apart on my first attempt. its as good a way as any to waste a day. what was really annoyin is i did this to find why my fan didnt blow. turned out to be the relay in the drivers kickpanel i didnt know about dispite asking on a forum (not this one) first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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