ajh Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I have a 1992 110 set-up with a double diaphragm booster from a D1 and I'm getting fluid leaking past the seals in the master. I've tried 3 different masters, 2 freshly rebuilt and 1 brand new and they all exhibit the same behaviour. Has anyone run into this or know what 'spec' master I should be looking for? I suspect anyone going to higher PSI systems (hydroboost etc) use something more robust, ideally something with a stainless liner and endlessly rebuildable. Thanks., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Are you using an OEM one? I've never seen one leak. Sounds more like something is not setup correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 What make was the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 What misconfiguration do you believe would cause internal bypassing? Two were OE rebuilt, one was TRW, all the non-cast version. I'm certainly perplexed, I've never had something like this happen before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 If the push rod is too short, the seals pop out too far, and will leak... That's about all I can think of...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 There is always the chance that is the case, it was too long originally, the 'sweet spot' seems to be exceptionally small, I'll keep adjusting it out to see if the issue goes away. Despite searching for a very long time on brake issues, this one was not mentioned, anywhere. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 After having a few masters fail on disco's and defenders all the later steel tube type, they've all succumbed to pitting damage of the bore which no seal kit can fix, they're not mega expensive so I usually replace with a TRW or equivalent brand. Recently I had an issue on a 2002 Defender 90 where I changed the master after changing all the callipers and for the life of me I couldn't get a hard pedal, very much felt like I had a bypassing (brand new) master, as a last ditch effort I cracked all the pipes on the proportional valve and low and behold I got a heap of air released from the front right connection, suffice to say this has improved things no end (still not quite as hard as I'd like), but going to go squeeze the calliper and re crack the union to see if there's any more air trapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 I think bowie's case is watertight. Or in this case, brake-fluid tight. Sorry. I will get my coat.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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