SPendrey Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Hello again, I attempted to replace the rear diff flange seal (I think that's right?) a few weeks back, in an attempt to reduce the number of oil spots under the Disco (300Tdi, '94/5). Mine looks similar to the attached picture that I copied from the web (I think that's a D2, mine's a D1). However, mine differs in that I tried to remove that centre peg by driving a bolt into it, through some thick washers against a large socket. The theory being the bolt would pull the peg out. It didn't. Instead I now have a sheared thread of the bolt sticking out only just proud of the hole. Not enough visible to get grips on. So, I just stuck it all back together as is, and ignored it. Except, now I know it's not right I want to address it! Any suggestions for A) removing the sheared bolt and B) removing that centering peg thing afterwards? Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 You need a slide hammer to remove the peg. There's then a 15 (?)mm bolt that then needs to be removed in order to remove the flange and then replace the seal. Les 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Removing the old bolt, I'd avoid "ezyouts" as they tend to shear, leaving hardened steel in the drilling. If you cant weld a nut on to the protruding stub, then I'd look at cutting a slot across the end to use a screwdriver. If that won't work, you'll have to drill it out and tap the threads again. Following that, I'd heat the yolk to make pulling the spigot easier - you don't have to worry about heat damaging the seal, after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 you'll end up cutting with a slitting disk down each of the 3 sides of the frnage, then belt each ear with a hammer, soak the area around the fitting of that daft pef by putting diff nose up overnight soak wd40. then you will get that centre out, undo bolt and reamoive flange, then seal, replace seal / flange and plug with new kit, or better still convert to a 4 bolt flange loose the donut and add a spacer in or change prop Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Drill out the broken bolt. Use a set drill size if possible, say 3/8" - Fill the cavity with grease and fit a punch into the hole, it needs to be a tight fit, use a lump hammer and drive the punch into the drilled hole, the grease will hydraulically force the peg out revealing the 15mm bolt. Drill and use a helicoil to give you a tread for future use. If you need to heat up the flange do so, but only to allow the outside to expand to release the plug, as Snagger said you will damage the leaking seal but so what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Found a bit of time this weekend, and got to the bottom of this - although I'm yet to test drive! Cut a small slot in the bolt stuck in the centre pin, then could unscrew it. Then used about 10 (maybe more?) M8 bolts and nuts to ease the centre out. The initial 'crack' to get it moving needed a 10.9 tensile bolt. The thread kept going on all the others. Anyway, once that bit was done the rest came along OK. All back together now, with a new seal, 4-bolt flange and a 200TDi prop. Hoping it'll drive OK in a short while?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 While attaching the new prop, with one wheel raised, I noted the rotation was significantly stiffer than before... I used to be able to rotate the wheel by twisting the prop, but on this occasion I had to use the handbrake drum to rotate it. Test drive seems OK though, with far fewer "clacks" between gear shifts as the props and diffs all take up the slack. Hopefully, that's the end (for now) of leaks at the rear of the car, now to find the engine oil or possibly diesel one at the front! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 There shouldn't have been much change in turning resistance. Maybe a little if the new UJs are tight, but not as much as you say. Are you sure a brake wasn't binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 I wondered about a different pressure being applied to the diff pinion through the new flange and nut. I'll have another check later in the week after a couple of days' driving. Perhaps it just needs a little loosening up ~:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 The bearing preload shouldn't have been altered by the new flange as it is controlled by the shims. I can't imagine a tight seal causing quite that much resistance either. Did you fit a new or used shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 No. Changing seal and end flange shouldn't read shouldnt alter preload, if it wrong its bearings and thats the 1st to go in on a build so has to be stripped and all redone , but some pattern parts can be a dire fit, and not unknown to cause issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Well, while in the MOT centre today the rear was lifted and the wheels/prop spin just right! Sod's law though, a rear brake light bulb decided it wasn't playing ball. Fixed on the stop for another year's entertainment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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